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Member Since: Jun 7, 2006
Last Visit: 19 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 139
Total Points: 3,325
Last Year: 170
Last 30 Days: 19
67 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Geir been climbing?










Contributions


All 2552 | Routes 68 | Areas 20 | Photos 327 | Page Improvements | Comments 710 | Posts 922 | Stars 346 | Ratings 159
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Hackberry Creek : Disappointment (5.7)
By: Geir When: Nov 23, 2013

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Comments: This route is actually pretty fun! We went to the top of the formation and rapped. I would not consider it a beginner triad climb as there is some loose rock and tricky pro, particularly at the start.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : In Search of Silence [Var] (5.13b)
By: Geir When: Nov 21, 2013

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Comments: I think it would be simplist if linkups were described as variations to the original routes rather than listing them individually.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Doubt (5.14a)
By: Geir When: Oct 26, 2013

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Comments: Alex kicks ass. His redpoint of this long-abandoned project is awesome. Aside from the manufacturing this route is enthralling to look at as it weaves up that colorful wall.

That said, I detest chiseling and gluing. Ethically I have a problem with this behavior, which is of course only my opinion. However, route manufacturing also brings practical and legal problems to climbers. We should avoid manufacturing holds at all costs, even if it means that we have to aid a move rather than free i... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Rogue Planet (5.12c)
By: Geir When: Oct 19, 2013

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Comments: Rogue Planet was a real battle to establish but it was definitely worth it. We started on this route hoping it would get us up to Tideways. It didn't wind up taking us that way, but Clay saw the second pitch while we were climbing Tideways and became convinced it would go. He put in a tremendous effort in figuring it out, cleaning it, and redpointing it. We just managed to finish the route as the season closed.

The first pitch has a lot of good climbing on it, but the real gem is the sec... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : Ireland
By: Geir When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: Dominic,

If you haven't already done this consider spray painting those biners to match the rock. This seems to help people figure out that they are anchor biners and not booty.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Sensory Desuetude (5.11a R)
By: Geir When: Oct 8, 2013

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Comments: Clay Mansfield and I just repeated this route. It is loaded with committing climbing and awe-inspiring features but it also has some scary climbing.

We pitched it out a little differently from John's description. After the initial chimney we belayed at the base of the crack (60'). From here we climbed 140' to the top of pitch 2 (as described in the OP). After about 40' the protection became quite sketchy and the rock was crumbly in places. The next 30-40' required the utmost attention to p... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Be All, End All (5.11+)
By: Geir When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: Thanks Angel and John!

I got a good laugh out of the term "blue-collar climbing". Very clever Clay. The chimneys and cracks on the upper pitches are a lot more physical and labor intensive than Cochise face and slab climbs. Set aside some extra time on this one. The climb is definitely worth it, though.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : The Morgue (5.14a)
By: Geir When: Sep 28, 2013

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Comments: ^^^^^^^That's a good way to say it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Reef Break (5.11+)
By: Geir When: Sep 21, 2013

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Comments: This route is tremendous!! We started on the left side for pitch 1, which is a great warmup for the climbing above. The second and third pitches have great exposure and a bunch of fascinating, unusual moves. On the third pitch, the horn, arete, crux, and ramp make for one of the best pitches at the reef.

On the final pitch look for the ramp on the right as you finish the bolted crux. The route heads up and right toward the ramp using gear for protection.

EFR put up the majority of the grou... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : The Morgue (5.14a)
By: Geir When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: Some good thoughts there Alex. An additional question we should ask ourselves is this: if our local land managers became aware of these practices, would they consider them legal? How might that change their view of climbers?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : 21st Century Finger Crack (5.11)
By: Geir When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: The water stain is easily avoided if damp. The crux move which gains the crack is protected by a bolt; from there the climbing to the top is good crack climbing. Both this climb and the climb to its left are well worth climbing.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : 20th Century Flake (5.10+)
By: Geir When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: Great fun! The flake is wild and protects well. Depending on what you are climbing at the Reef this could be a good warmup. The bolted section down low is just as interesting as the flake.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
By: Geir When: Aug 28, 2013

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Comments: Ha! You are beating me Charles!

What if Darth Vader lost those draws but he took them from a band of Ewoks he slaughtered? F*** that!

By the way Robert would never kill Ewoks he is much too kind. Please return his draws because of this. :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
By: Geir When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: You are right Charles. He should get his draws back. I figured it couldn't hurt to say that he's a good person, though.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : Raycreation Area
By: Geir When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: Did you get them Ryan? I hope someone can pick them up while they are in the area.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
By: Geir When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: Robert is a really nice guy. If you found the draws it would be great to get them back to him. Thanks!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Phillipino Fighting Fish (5.11)
By: Geir When: Aug 24, 2013

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Comments: This route is surprisingly good. Three good pitches; the crux pitch (2) is the real deal with devious .11 trad climbing on an engaging flake. Solid gear is readily available but the climbing between the gear will test your technical skills.

The route ends on the large ledge that separates the upper and lower faces of Neptune, so a party can choose from a number of routes to top out.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Visceral Pull (5.12b)
By: Geir When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: Congrats on sending this hard trad line and for a terrific ground up effort Clay!

Let me be the first to say Clay is crazy. He drilled from wacky hook and beak placements and got in gear from very difficult stances. He took multiple falls on horizontally placed small cams and made some bold moves where falls would have been long. It was impressive to put it mildly!

This climb also has one of the funniest-looking moves I have ever seen on a climb, a cross between a beached whale and thrustin... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Salty Dogs (5.11)
By: Geir When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: This route is great. The first pitch has some really fun moves and some good exposure. The second pitch is also quite fun and well worth doing. If you are looking for well-protected 5.11 climbing at the reef this route is right on the mark.

We found that a single rack through #3 Camalot with one or two extra finger size cams was sufficient.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Prime Rib of RURP (5.12a)
By: Geir When: Jul 23, 2013

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Comments: Congrats Clay on a terrific effort! This climb has a great new first pitch, super-technical climbing on the second (now free) pitch, and spicy reef-style climbing on the last pitch. I was psyched to be present for the free ascent!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Tide Me Over (5.10c/d)
By: Geir When: Jul 23, 2013

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Comments: Wow - got on this climb today and was really impressed. Looking up from the ground it's hard to imagine how many jugs there are up there and that the pitch actually goes on gear. I liked that the climb also maintains the committing feeling of the reef as there are a couple of spots that you must commit over small gear.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Arc Of A Diver (5.11c)
By: Geir When: Jul 21, 2013

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Comments: Great rock, fun movement, and surprise holds throughout. The crack on the second half of the pitch is terrific. The crux moves are high on the pitch and gear protected. Highly recommended.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Tide Me Over (5.10c/d)
By: Geir When: Jul 19, 2013

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Comments: Nice addition Clay! I think MP checks the "alpine" box by default in areas that are above a set elevation.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : Elysian Buttress : Elysian Buttress Original R... (5.7+)
By: Geir When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: A little stiff for the grade and (at times) the pro is scarce. Once you leave the main trail, the approach trail is faint.

After you find the climb, routefinding is not too bad with the directions provided here. I thought pitches three and four were the best of the climb; pitch 4 required an interesting combination of chimney, groove, and crack moves and even had some overhanging terrain on it.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall : Paradise Lost (5.12- PG13)
By: Geir When: Jul 10, 2013

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Comments: Do you mean redpoint?


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