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Member Since: Jun 7, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 139
Total Points: 3,330
Last Year: 116
Last 30 Days: 1
70 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 2572 | Routes 68 | Areas 20 | Photos 327 | Page Improvements | Comments 715 | Posts 936 | Stars 347 | Ratings 159
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Energized (5.11)
By: Geir When: Nov 29, 2013

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Comments: This route is great but it is committing and strenuous to protect. A nut tool was handy to clean out some placements. Small came, RPs, and a couple of ball nuts are very helpful. The largest piece I placed was a #2 Camalot. Make sure you lead head is clear for this one.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Desire (5.10 R)
By: Geir When: Nov 28, 2013

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Comments: Did this route again today and it was every bit as good as I remembered.

A couple of notes on the bolts since this has come up in the comments above.

The replaced bolts are are stamped "90". Crazy that the replaced bolts are already 23 years old. The last bolt on the climb is still an original bolt with an the old style thin SMC hanger. This should be replaced. The remainder of the bolts are 3/8" wedge bolts with a lot of life in them.

Unfortunately, when the bolts were replaced back in 1... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Credibility Gap (5.10c/d)
By: Geir When: Nov 28, 2013

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Comments: This is an excellent route. When climbing the center variation, we used stoppers, doubles to #2 Camalot, and one #3 Camalot. Superb climbing on great rock.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Glide Path (5.12a)
By: Geir When: Nov 28, 2013

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Comments: This is a tremendous route. Terrific climbing from start to finish, great pro (sometimes requiring a little bit of finesse), great rock, and aesthetic. We used stoppers, doubles to .75 Camalot, one #1, and one #2.

The 1/4" bolts on the 5.11 part of the climb were replaced (as Alex noted above). Thanks to whoever did this replacement as they took the time to remove the old bolt and drill out the old hole. The new bolts are 1/2" wedge bolts so I imagine they will be bomber for dec... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Geir When: Nov 27, 2013

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Comments: Terrific picture!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Hackberry Creek : Disappointment (5.7)
By: Geir When: Nov 23, 2013

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Comments: This route is actually pretty fun! We went to the top of the formation and rapped. I would not consider it a beginner triad climb as there is some loose rock and tricky pro, particularly at the start.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : In Search of Silence [Var] (5.13b)
By: Geir When: Nov 21, 2013

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Comments: I think it would be simplist if linkups were described as variations to the original routes rather than listing them individually.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Doubt (5.14a)
By: Geir When: Oct 26, 2013

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Comments: Alex kicks ass. His redpoint of this long-abandoned project is awesome. Aside from the manufacturing this route is enthralling to look at as it weaves up that colorful wall.

That said, I detest chiseling and gluing. Ethically I have a problem with this behavior, which is of course only my opinion. However, route manufacturing also brings practical and legal problems to climbers. We should avoid manufacturing holds at all costs, even if it means that we have to aid a move rather than free i... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Rogue Planet (5.12c)
By: Geir When: Oct 19, 2013

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Comments: Rogue Planet was a real battle to establish but it was definitely worth it. We started on this route hoping it would get us up to Tideways. It didn't wind up taking us that way, but Clay saw the second pitch while we were climbing Tideways and became convinced it would go. He put in a tremendous effort in figuring it out, cleaning it, and redpointing it. We just managed to finish the route as the season closed.

The first pitch has a lot of good climbing on it, but the real gem is the sec... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : Ireland
By: Geir When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: Dominic,

If you haven't already done this consider spray painting those biners to match the rock. This seems to help people figure out that they are anchor biners and not booty.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Sensory Desuetude (5.11a R)
By: Geir When: Oct 8, 2013

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Comments: Clay Mansfield and I just repeated this route. It is loaded with committing climbing and awe-inspiring features but it also has some scary climbing.

We pitched it out a little differently from John's description. After the initial chimney we belayed at the base of the crack (60'). From here we climbed 140' to the top of pitch 2 (as described in the OP). After about 40' the protection became quite sketchy and the rock was crumbly in places. The next 30-40' required the utmost attention to p... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Be All, End All (5.11+)
By: Geir When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: Thanks Angel and John!

I got a good laugh out of the term "blue-collar climbing". Very clever Clay. The chimneys and cracks on the upper pitches are a lot more physical and labor intensive than Cochise face and slab climbs. Set aside some extra time on this one. The climb is definitely worth it, though.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : The Morgue (5.14a)
By: Geir When: Sep 28, 2013

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Comments: ^^^^^^^That's a good way to say it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Reef Break (5.11+)
By: Geir When: Sep 21, 2013

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Comments: This route is tremendous!! We started on the left side for pitch 1, which is a great warmup for the climbing above. The second and third pitches have great exposure and a bunch of fascinating, unusual moves. On the third pitch, the horn, arete, crux, and ramp make for one of the best pitches at the reef.

On the final pitch look for the ramp on the right as you finish the bolted crux. The route heads up and right toward the ramp using gear for protection.

EFR put up the majority of the grou... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : The Morgue (5.14a)
By: Geir When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: Some good thoughts there Alex. An additional question we should ask ourselves is this: if our local land managers became aware of these practices, would they consider them legal? How might that change their view of climbers?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : 21st Century Finger Crack (5.11)
By: Geir When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: The water stain is easily avoided if damp. The crux move which gains the crack is protected by a bolt; from there the climbing to the top is good crack climbing. Both this climb and the climb to its left are well worth climbing.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : 20th Century Flake (5.10+)
By: Geir When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: Great fun! The flake is wild and protects well. Depending on what you are climbing at the Reef this could be a good warmup. The bolted section down low is just as interesting as the flake.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
By: Geir When: Aug 28, 2013

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Comments: Ha! You are beating me Charles!

What if Darth Vader lost those draws but he took them from a band of Ewoks he slaughtered? F*** that!

By the way Robert would never kill Ewoks he is much too kind. Please return his draws because of this. :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
By: Geir When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: You are right Charles. He should get his draws back. I figured it couldn't hurt to say that he's a good person, though.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : Raycreation Area
By: Geir When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: Did you get them Ryan? I hope someone can pick them up while they are in the area.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
By: Geir When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: Robert is a really nice guy. If you found the draws it would be great to get them back to him. Thanks!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Phillipino Fighting Fish (5.11)
By: Geir When: Aug 24, 2013

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Comments: This route is surprisingly good. Three good pitches; the crux pitch (2) is the real deal with devious .11 trad climbing on an engaging flake. Solid gear is readily available but the climbing between the gear will test your technical skills.

The route ends on the large ledge that separates the upper and lower faces of Neptune, so a party can choose from a number of routes to top out.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Visceral Pull (5.12b)
By: Geir When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: Congrats on sending this hard trad line and for a terrific ground up effort Clay!

Let me be the first to say Clay is crazy. He drilled from wacky hook and beak placements and got in gear from very difficult stances. He took multiple falls on horizontally placed small cams and made some bold moves where falls would have been long. It was impressive to put it mildly!

This climb also has one of the funniest-looking moves I have ever seen on a climb, a cross between a beached whale and thrustin... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Salty Dogs (5.11)
By: Geir When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: This route is great. The first pitch has some really fun moves and some good exposure. The second pitch is also quite fun and well worth doing. If you are looking for well-protected 5.11 climbing at the reef this route is right on the mark.

We found that a single rack through #3 Camalot with one or two extra finger size cams was sufficient.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Prime Rib of RURP (5.12a)
By: Geir When: Jul 23, 2013

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Comments: Congrats Clay on a terrific effort! This climb has a great new first pitch, super-technical climbing on the second (now free) pitch, and spicy reef-style climbing on the last pitch. I was psyched to be present for the free ascent!


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