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Member Since: Jun 7, 2006
Last Visit: 19 mins ago
Contact Geir


Point Rank: # 139
Total Points: 3,325
Last Year: 170
Last 30 Days: 19
67 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Geir been climbing?










Contributions


All 2552 | Routes 68 | Areas 20 | Photos 327 | Page Improvements | Comments 710 | Posts 922 | Stars 346 | Ratings 159
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Inertia (5.10-)
By: Geir When: Mar 19, 2014

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Comments: Finally catching up on my feedback after two weeks running around like mad. Climbed this with Arjun early this month and actually had a lot of fun. Very exposed but reasonable climbing at the top. A single set of cams and stoppers did the trick.

I looked the arÍte at the top, particularly where I had to step around left to open air. Nice climb Arjun and David!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Triangulate (5.10+)
By: Geir When: Mar 4, 2014

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Comments: Pulled with a crowbar - wow those were not good bolts at all. Thanks Eric!!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: Geir When: Mar 2, 2014

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Comments: Thanks John. I have a couple more at home that I can sell. PM me if you want some more info.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : The Plate (5.12+)
By: Geir When: Mar 2, 2014

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Comments: Tasty LOL John.

No problem Alex, I thought you might have misread what Eric had written. :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Poetry in Motion (5.10- R)
By: Geir When: Mar 1, 2014

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Comments: On Feb 27th two anchor bolts and four protection bolts were replaced with hardware provided by the ASCA. The anchor on top of pitch 1 is now two Fixe rap anchors. The anchor on top of pitch 2 was already replaced. Two of the original bolts were still in good condition (3/8" split shafts with good stainless steel SMC hangers). These were not replaced as they still have many years left in them. The route is in prime shape now.

We still have to remove a temporary bolt from the top which serve... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : The Plate (5.12+)
By: Geir When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: Hey Alex,

As I look at Eric's post I'm pretty sure it was intended to be humorous and friendly. He often jokes that he loves climbing everything; his remark that you also love climbing everything doesn't seem to be derogatory. Just my take.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: Geir When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: Lol camera adds 30 years.

Clay is correct, it is a three bolt anchor. I do have ASCA bolts in hand for the bolts in the photo but have not gotten to them yet.

I will get them swapped out after the closure though. :)


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Main Amphitheater : Gemini Dragonfire (5.13+)
By: Geir When: Feb 8, 2014

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Comments: Awesome Joel!!!!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Cap'm Pissgums (5.10+)
By: Geir When: Feb 5, 2014

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Comments: Hahaha Clay I just saw this. I will have to find that photo.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Up in Smoke (5.11- R)
By: Geir When: Feb 2, 2014

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Comments: Hey Arjun, thanks for the photo!! It is on the S face, good catch. There are two bolts protecting the poor rock in the beginning. Since the rest of the rock is better, only a few bolts were installed where there wasn't reasonable gear. It makes for a bold lead; it is probably a similar commitment level as Overcoming Inertia. It will be interesting to see if you guys think it is PG13 or R. In the interim I will keep it posted it as an R.

Marcy and I are thinking of coming up agai... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : The Wasteland : Teenage Wasteland (Sweeny D... (5.10b)
By: Geir When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: Teenage Wasteland is an enjoyable outing, particularly the first two pitches. My understanding is that the route heads left after the second pitch instead of continuing on Sweeny Direct.

A topo for this route can be downloaded from here:

toofasttopos.com/free/


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : The Wasteland : The Wasteland (5.8)
By: Geir When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: A topo for this route can be downloaded from here:

toofasttopos.com/free/


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Hands Canyon : Golden Buttress
By: Geir When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: Looks great TJ! Can't wait to check it out.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : ... : Photo
By: Geir When: Jan 16, 2014

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Comments: Hahahaha very clever guys!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Cochise Dome (What's My Lin... : What's My Line? (5.6 A0 R)
By: Geir When: Jan 6, 2014

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Comments: It is likely they only need to be tightened. See the comments below; they were replaced in 2007.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Whale Dome
By: Geir When: Dec 25, 2013

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Comments: Here is an approach map I've been working on. You can rotate/tilt/zoom the map using your arrow keys and the [Ctrl] key. When you are done looking at it simply close the page or click the back button to return to this page.

You can launch the page by clicking this link:

toofasttopos.com/googleearth/w...

Thumbnail view of the page
Thumbnail view of the page



Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall
By: Geir When: Dec 22, 2013

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Comments: Made my first trip to the waterfall today. Met up with Darren, Joel, Karie (sp?), Eric, JJ, and Wade. Clay convinced me to make the trip up from Tucson.

This place is the best single pitch climbing area I have visited other than New River Gorge. Thanks to the many people who spent time to carefully develop this astounding place. I cannot wait to climb here again!!!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Oasis : Midnight at the Oasis (5.12b)
By: Geir When: Dec 17, 2013

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Comments: Hahaha tough crowd.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Totem Pole Direct (5.10)
By: Geir When: Dec 5, 2013

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Comments: Hey Lou,

I didn't suggest removing these bolts because I was able to climb it on gear. As you said, any route in Devil's Canyon could be done on gear (or free soloed) given a strong enough climber. We actually put up almost all the lines in LDE on gear and then added bolts where the pro was sketchy or absent.

My suggestion to remove the bolts was based on the fact that this was already an established (albeit obscure) route. Arjun did it before me and others did it before him. I don't think... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Glide Path (5.12a)
By: Geir When: Nov 30, 2013

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Comments: Thanks John! It really is a fantastic route.

I can ask Dave about those bolt locations just to make sure.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Energized (5.11)
By: Geir When: Nov 29, 2013

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Comments: This route is great but it is committing and strenuous to protect. A nut tool was handy to clean out some placements. Small came, RPs, and a couple of ball nuts are very helpful. The largest piece I placed was a #2 Camalot. Make sure you lead head is clear for this one.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Desire (5.10 R)
By: Geir When: Nov 28, 2013

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Comments: Did this route again today and it was every bit as good as I remembered.

A couple of notes on the bolts since this has come up in the comments above.

The replaced bolts are are stamped "90". Crazy that the replaced bolts are already 23 years old. The last bolt on the climb is still an original bolt with an the old style thin SMC hanger. This should be replaced. The remainder of the bolts are 3/8" wedge bolts with a lot of life in them.

Unfortunately, when the bolts were replaced back in 1... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Credibility Gap (5.10c/d)
By: Geir When: Nov 28, 2013

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Comments: This is an excellent route. When climbing the center variation, we used stoppers, doubles to #2 Camalot, and one #3 Camalot. Superb climbing on great rock.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Glide Path (5.12a)
By: Geir When: Nov 28, 2013

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Comments: This is a tremendous route. Terrific climbing from start to finish, great pro (sometimes requiring a little bit of finesse), great rock, and aesthetic. We used stoppers, doubles to .75 Camalot, one #1, and one #2.

The 1/4" bolts on the 5.11 part of the climb were replaced (as Alex noted above). Thanks to whoever did this replacement as they took the time to remove the old bolt and drill out the old hole. The new bolts are 1/2" wedge bolts so I imagine they will be bomber for dec... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Geir When: Nov 27, 2013

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Comments: Terrific picture!


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