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Member Since: Jun 7, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 138
Total Points: 3,300
Last Year: 212
Last 30 Days: 0
65 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Geir been climbing?










Contributions


All 2533 | Routes 68 | Areas 20 | Photos 323 | Page Improvements | Comments 705 | Posts 912 | Stars 346 | Ratings 159
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: Geir When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: Lol camera adds 30 years.

Clay is correct, it is a three bolt anchor. I do have ASCA bolts in hand for the bolts in the photo but have not gotten to them yet.

I will get them swapped out after the closure though. :)


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Main Amphitheater : Gemini Dragonfire (5.13+)
By: Geir When: Feb 8, 2014

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Comments: Awesome Joel!!!!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Cap'm Pissgums (5.10+)
By: Geir When: Feb 5, 2014

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Comments: Hahaha Clay I just saw this. I will have to find that photo.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Up in Smoke (5.11- R)
By: Geir When: Feb 2, 2014

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Comments: Hey Arjun, thanks for the photo!! It is on the S face, good catch. There are two bolts protecting the poor rock in the beginning. Since the rest of the rock is better, only a few bolts were installed where there wasn't reasonable gear. It makes for a bold lead; it is probably a similar commitment level as Overcoming Inertia. It will be interesting to see if you guys think it is PG13 or R. In the interim I will keep it posted it as an R.

Marcy and I are thinking of coming up agai... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : The Wasteland : Teenage Wasteland (Sweeny D... (5.10b)
By: Geir When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: Teenage Wasteland is an enjoyable outing, particularly the first two pitches. My understanding is that the route heads left after the second pitch instead of continuing on Sweeny Direct.

A topo for this route can be downloaded from here:

toofasttopos.com/free/


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : The Wasteland : The Wasteland (5.8)
By: Geir When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: A topo for this route can be downloaded from here:

toofasttopos.com/free/


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Hands Canyon : Golden Buttress
By: Geir When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: Looks great TJ! Can't wait to check it out.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : ... : Photo
By: Geir When: Jan 16, 2014

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Comments: Hahahaha very clever guys!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Cochise Dome (What's My Lin... : What's My Line? (5.6 A0 R)
By: Geir When: Jan 6, 2014

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Comments: It is likely they only need to be tightened. See the comments below; they were replaced in 2007.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Whale Dome
By: Geir When: Dec 25, 2013

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Comments: Here is an approach map I've been working on. You can rotate/tilt/zoom the map using your arrow keys and the [Ctrl] key. When you are done looking at it simply close the page or click the back button to return to this page.

You can launch the page by clicking this link:

toofasttopos.com/googleearth/w...

Thumbnail view of the page
Thumbnail view of the page



Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall
By: Geir When: Dec 22, 2013

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Comments: Made my first trip to the waterfall today. Met up with Darren, Joel, Karie (sp?), Eric, JJ, and Wade. Clay convinced me to make the trip up from Tucson.

This place is the best single pitch climbing area I have visited other than New River Gorge. Thanks to the many people who spent time to carefully develop this astounding place. I cannot wait to climb here again!!!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Oasis : Midnight at the Oasis (5.12b)
By: Geir When: Dec 17, 2013

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Comments: Hahaha tough crowd.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Totem Pole Direct (5.10)
By: Geir When: Dec 5, 2013

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Comments: Hey Lou,

I didn't suggest removing these bolts because I was able to climb it on gear. As you said, any route in Devil's Canyon could be done on gear (or free soloed) given a strong enough climber. We actually put up almost all the lines in LDE on gear and then added bolts where the pro was sketchy or absent.

My suggestion to remove the bolts was based on the fact that this was already an established (albeit obscure) route. Arjun did it before me and others did it before him. I don't think... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Glide Path (5.12a)
By: Geir When: Nov 30, 2013

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Comments: Thanks John! It really is a fantastic route.

I can ask Dave about those bolt locations just to make sure.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Energized (5.11)
By: Geir When: Nov 29, 2013

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Comments: This route is great but it is committing and strenuous to protect. A nut tool was handy to clean out some placements. Small came, RPs, and a couple of ball nuts are very helpful. The largest piece I placed was a #2 Camalot. Make sure you lead head is clear for this one.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Desire (5.10 R)
By: Geir When: Nov 28, 2013

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Comments: Did this route again today and it was every bit as good as I remembered.

A couple of notes on the bolts since this has come up in the comments above.

The replaced bolts are are stamped "90". Crazy that the replaced bolts are already 23 years old. The last bolt on the climb is still an original bolt with an the old style thin SMC hanger. This should be replaced. The remainder of the bolts are 3/8" wedge bolts with a lot of life in them.

Unfortunately, when the bolts were replaced back in 1... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Credibility Gap (5.10c/d)
By: Geir When: Nov 28, 2013

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Comments: This is an excellent route. When climbing the center variation, we used stoppers, doubles to #2 Camalot, and one #3 Camalot. Superb climbing on great rock.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Glide Path (5.12a)
By: Geir When: Nov 28, 2013

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Comments: This is a tremendous route. Terrific climbing from start to finish, great pro (sometimes requiring a little bit of finesse), great rock, and aesthetic. We used stoppers, doubles to .75 Camalot, one #1, and one #2.

The 1/4" bolts on the 5.11 part of the climb were replaced (as Alex noted above). Thanks to whoever did this replacement as they took the time to remove the old bolt and drill out the old hole. The new bolts are 1/2" wedge bolts so I imagine they will be bomber for dec... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Geir When: Nov 27, 2013

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Comments: Terrific picture!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Hackberry Creek : Disappointment (5.7)
By: Geir When: Nov 23, 2013

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Comments: This route is actually pretty fun! We went to the top of the formation and rapped. I would not consider it a beginner triad climb as there is some loose rock and tricky pro, particularly at the start.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : In Search of Silence [Var] (5.13b)
By: Geir When: Nov 21, 2013

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Comments: I think it would be simplist if linkups were described as variations to the original routes rather than listing them individually.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Doubt (5.14a)
By: Geir When: Oct 26, 2013

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Comments: Alex kicks ass. His redpoint of this long-abandoned project is awesome. Aside from the manufacturing this route is enthralling to look at as it weaves up that colorful wall.

That said, I detest chiseling and gluing. Ethically I have a problem with this behavior, which is of course only my opinion. However, route manufacturing also brings practical and legal problems to climbers. We should avoid manufacturing holds at all costs, even if it means that we have to aid a move rather than free i... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Rogue Planet (5.12c)
By: Geir When: Oct 19, 2013

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Comments: Rogue Planet was a real battle to establish but it was definitely worth it. We started on this route hoping it would get us up to Tideways. It didn't wind up taking us that way, but Clay saw the second pitch while we were climbing Tideways and became convinced it would go. He put in a tremendous effort in figuring it out, cleaning it, and redpointing it. We just managed to finish the route as the season closed.

The first pitch has a lot of good climbing on it, but the real gem is the sec... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : Ireland
By: Geir When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: Dominic,

If you haven't already done this consider spray painting those biners to match the rock. This seems to help people figure out that they are anchor biners and not booty.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Sensory Desuetude (5.11a R)
By: Geir When: Oct 8, 2013

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Comments: Clay Mansfield and I just repeated this route. It is loaded with committing climbing and awe-inspiring features but it also has some scary climbing.

We pitched it out a little differently from John's description. After the initial chimney we belayed at the base of the crack (60'). From here we climbed 140' to the top of pitch 2 (as described in the OP). After about 40' the protection became quite sketchy and the rock was crumbly in places. The next 30-40' required the utmost attention to p... more >>


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