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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead By: Geir When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Huh? I don't get it. Eric's the most step up, selfless guy I know.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : The Gallery By: Geir When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Luke! I have a bolt puller that can be used to get some types of old bolts out completely. Feel free to PM me if you want to give it a try for that anchor that you mentioned.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Alamo Canyon : Wilderness Dome : ... : Photo By: Geir When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Harass Jeff. I can't wait to check it out! (Edit: I meant to write BADASS not harass. Stupid autocorrect!)
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Upper Highway : ... : Marcy's Playground (5.11-) By: Geir When: May 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Took a hammer to = bent it down flat against the rock. Well, almost flat - you can still just barely clip it.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Tour Buses Welcome (5.10a/b) By: Geir When: May 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: And ... updated.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Get The Flock Out Of Here (5.10+) By: Geir When: May 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: updated
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Stampede (5.11a) By: Geir When: May 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fixed
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Photo By: Geir When: Apr 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hahahahahahaha
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Overcoming Inertia (5.10) By: Geir When: Apr 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is committing; I would suggest a PG13 rating. Small horizontal cam placements down low lead to heady climbing with some hollow sounding rock beneath the crux bulge.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Hidden Towers : Minas Morgul (5.10) By: Geir When: Apr 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah Arjun and David!!!! This tower looks terrific!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : ... : Photo By: Geir When: Apr 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah Marcy was pretty bold climbing up there with no large cams at all. She did a great job finding small gear instead. Pretty darn fun stuff, the whole pitch went with just one bolt.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : ... : New Wave Direct (5.12c) By: Geir When: Apr 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember thinking it would be a long way to the first good placement.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Gearhead (5.10- PG13) By: Geir When: Apr 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Greg, I bothered with the two bolts so that I wouldn't die on the ground up FA. Other than that, I think you're right on the mark. This route would require so much cleaning to make it safe that I'd just be manufacturing a route. It would be much better to take it down then leave a legacy like that behind. I'll be happy to remove it the next time I'm up there.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : ... : Photo By: Geir When: Apr 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Extremely cool looking route!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Glitter Box Area : Gold (5.10b/c) By: Geir When: Apr 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow guys nice! I am looking forward to climbing all the new stuff you are putting up out there. Looks steep!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Totem Pole Direct (5.10) By: Geir When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks all for your insights and willingness to sort through this stuff. Also thanks Aaron for cleaning the death blocks off this route as it definitely made it safer to go up this way.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Totem Pole Direct (5.10) By: Geir When: Apr 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this face to the top on gear. I agree it was definitely very spicy where the bolts are now. I liked the route but since it was done previously on gear the bolts should probably be removed.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Overcoming Inertia (5.10) By: Geir When: Apr 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah David and Arjun! Looks like fun, can't wait to climb it!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge : ... : Hairball (5.10 PG13) By: Geir When: Apr 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow Manny I am psyched that you liked it so much! Thanks!!
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Milagrosa Canyon (La Milagr... : The Beach : Milanoma (5.12b/c) By: Geir When: Apr 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: By "fabricate" what do you mean, Todd? Do you mean chiseling and using glue? Or are you referencing setting the route on TR and rap bolting? If it's the latter I am sure nobody will spit on your car. The former could cause problems for us ... I doubt land managers would be psyched to read about climbers doing this (even on chossy rock) and then boasting about it. Could you clarify what you are talking about?
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : ... : Avocado Dreamin' (5.9) By: Geir When: Apr 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes it seems to look a lot better that way. I am psyched to try it out!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : ... : Avocado Dreamin' (5.9) By: Geir When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice Arjun!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : ... : Photo By: Geir When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic photo!!!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead By: Geir When: Mar 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was it the bolt or the hanger that broke?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak By: Geir When: Mar 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a beautiful peak. The approach trail was well defined and not at all hard to follow. The hill on the second half is long and the trail is a bit loose in places.
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