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Member Since: Apr 1, 2002
Last Visit: Feb 5, 2003
Contact Gary Stetler


Point Rank: # 14,944
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Choppo's Chimney (WI4-5)
By: Gary Stetler When: Feb 5, 2003

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Comments: I'm not sure what Joey T meant by the comment "half ropes will do ". The pitch is fairly long and requires 2 60 meter ropes for the rap (50 meters might make it to the low angle snow). A good belay can be set off to the right side of the icefall on a sunny bench. There are a couple pockets there that will take a #1 Camalot and a yellow Alien. Be sure to set the belay well to the right. Under the conditions we did it (2-4-03) no rock gear needs to be taken by the leader. The lead is so... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Flakes (5.9)
By: Gary Stetler When: Apr 11, 2002

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Comments: This was the first route I did when I moved to Boulder in 1983. At that time, the Ericson guide rated this (and Whistle Stop) as 5.7. I thought I was being conservative in my route choices, hoping to get used to the distinctly non-Yosemite type of climbing that Eldo offered, on something well below my limit. I'm not sure that these routes are 5.9, but I must say that I was pretty sure that I'd never be able to lead 5.10 in Eldo if they were really only 5.7.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerial Book (5.11a R)
By: Gary Stetler When: Apr 5, 2002

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Comments: Tony's right about the S rating for the first pitch. It protects but with pretty small gear, Lowe Ball Nuts work ok. The 11a bit actually seems more mellow than the first pitch because the pro is quite good. But then, I've always thought that hard 5.10 (10d) was way more difficult than easy 11 (11a), if you know what I mean.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Land of Ra (5.11a)
By: Gary Stetler When: Apr 5, 2002

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Comments: The ground-fall potential on this route prior to clipping the first bolt is pretty high and I found it more comfortable to lead this by climbing the shallow dihedral just right of the face moves to the bolt, placing pro in the dihedral's crack and then traversing almost directly left to the bolt. The rest of the pitch is one of the nicest face pitches around, with good pro.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+)
By: Gary Stetler When: Apr 1, 2002

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Comments: I've done this route 3 times over the last few years, with both finishes. I like the finish recommended by Steve Levin the best (move [left] partway through pitch 3). The climbing (10a) into the adjacent dihedral is quite good, though the 5.12 finish is beyond me, the A0 bolt pull is good clean fun. By the way, I'm pretty sure that Paul Sibley did the first ascent of this route, though I can't remember who he said his partner was.

P.S.: it is certainly one of the best climbs of its grade ... more >>