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summit of Lost Arrow, City of rocks Idaho. Me on the right lol.


Member Since: Nov 27, 2002
Last Visit: May 24, 2014
Contact Gary Schmidt


Point Rank: # 915
Total Points: 700
Last Year: 6
Last 30 Days: 0
34 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 362 | Routes 9 | Areas | Photos 86 | Page Improvements | Comments 175 | Posts 17 | Stars 57 | Ratings 18
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : ... : Photo
By: Gary Schmidt When: Mar 20, 2014

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Comments: What's with all these photos making it look 3x as hard as it? Lol. Or maybe it is just a convenient angle from the belay. Be warned though, it is pretty serious and stout for a 5.6 on the 2nd half of pitch one with potential to hurt yourself. Be solid.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Beehive Buttress : Walking the Board (5.10a)
By: Gary Schmidt When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: Fun climb! Start is intimidating, but it goes.

As per the "swing". Yes, this is an example of one of the downfalls (IMHO) of this crag in that it could maybe stand a couple of more anchors. For example, there are 3 routes (maybe 4?) that share the same anchor here. It turned out no one else wanted to follow or climb this route after I topped out so made for a pretty challenging rappel to get my draws back.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Beehive Buttress : Back to Bucket Country (5.8)
By: Gary Schmidt When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: One of the best sport 5.8s ever.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Pretty (5.8)
By: Gary Schmidt When: Sep 7, 2013

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Comments: Thanks. At first glance didn't look like too much, but when I got on it, it had some nice climbing and very good practice for friction. It was a bit dusky when I led it, so it was hard to see features, but I guessed it to be around 5.8+ to 5.9. Harder than it looked! Fun and does make a nice addition. You can make the route a little easier by going left near the start of the face, but what fun would that be!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Devin's Dihedral (5.9+ R)
By: Gary Schmidt When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: To easily top rope this without doing the sketchy lead and if you can't climb 5.10 (the climb to the right that shares the same anchor) is to do Bosch Blanket trailing a second rope, clip into the anchors of Bosch and continue leading a few more feet over to the next anchor to your left (easy traverse, but don't fall because of course potential for a little swing). Clip in again of course to that anchor as you set up the top rope and then go back to the first anchors and lower.

Maybe this is ob... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera
By: Gary Schmidt When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: One note about the mentioned 430 sign: there is no way you will spot this driving by in your car unless you have eagle eyes. It is quite faded and small. It is, however, there and a good marker to tell you are starting the correct approach trail which is just east of the large talus field.

Also in the interest of toting the positive aspects of this crag:

1) Nice southern exposure for those colder days.
2) Good place for a group as all the climbs are pretty much lined up and you can easily kee... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : North Face (5.6 R)
By: Gary Schmidt When: Sep 20, 2012

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Comments: This route seems to have many possible subtle variations, and part of the adventure (at least for me) was not knowing precisely where to go and what might lie around the bend. Definitely a bit scary in places, particularly pulling the crux (again not really knowing what was above the slightly overhanging section with a nice ledge below you ready to break your ankles if you blow it. IMHO, you should not be on this route (leader or follower) unless you are pretty comfortable soloing around 5.4 to ... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Super Hits - Bloody Fingers : Twist and Crawl (5.8 R)
By: Gary Schmidt When: Jul 21, 2012

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Comments: You can rap this from the anchor easy enough if you trend west onto the ramp. Will deposit you right in front of a crack on a ramp that is easy to protect if you wish while you are fiddling with pulling down the rope. Then is an easy down climb.

To top rope (with a 60) it is best to build an anchor right below the final roof, then when ready to go home last climber climbs up past the anchor and raps.
Or yes easy to rap from Bloody Fingers (if the route is empty! and it is popular). This is als... more >>


Location: CO : Mobile Apps: Completely Fre...
By: Gary Schmidt When: May 19, 2012

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Comments: Thx and yeah.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Great Burrito : Desperado (5.10a)
By: Gary Schmidt When: Dec 21, 2011

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Comments: thought this was a fun thought provoking route. Bring a few smaller to medium cams to supplement the bolts. Hardest move is getting over the small roof bulge before the final crack to the summit. Have fun!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Great Burrito
By: Gary Schmidt When: Dec 21, 2011

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Comments: We were there today and actually had a real great time. For one it is sunny all day which is nice in the cooler seasons and there were no crowds. The crag has a nice mixture of routes and we didn't find the rock quality to be that bad at all (thought a bit grainy in places). Also there must have been some additions since the original description as there are now some bolts on the routes. Fat Free on the far right is a real nice mixed climb which I would easily give two stars.
There is one ancho... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : South Astro Dome : ... : Breakfast of Champions (5.8+)
By: Gary Schmidt When: Dec 19, 2011

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Comments: very nice climb that gets u nice and high. Best best be solid at leading 5.9 or so for this one as some sections are a bit stout and the second pitch is a bit scary and quite run out. (can hardly imagine it when it only had one bolt)! i would vote for at for 5.8+ for first pitch, 5.9R for second pitch (which even though bolted the bolts are a bit hard to spot and involve some weaving around)/


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Shipyard Rock : Waves (5.8)
By: Gary Schmidt When: Aug 5, 2011

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Comments: Fun route. The start will probably get your attention and you will probably give a sigh of relief once you have that second bolt clipped. From then on enjoy the hike.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Marker : Middle Marker : Weird Water (5.7)
By: Gary Schmidt When: Aug 5, 2011

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Comments: First of all thx for the great beta for directions above. Worked out well and don't think I would ever have found the climb without them.

A great route but not your average "5.7" climb. When you combine the necessity of picking out the best line and also the fact that you might not be used to waging how much skin you might be willing to lose if you miss while standing on that slippery crystal this climb can easily become a bit of an adventure. I too have led 5.8 and 9's (and a pretty solid 5.10... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : The Unsaid (5.9)
By: Gary Schmidt When: Jul 6, 2011

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Comments: Fun route that has probably one of those "height dependent" cruxes. Otherwise you are going to probably have to make a couple of pretty thin moves and run it out a bit above some pretty small pro (small RPs) which is a bit disconcerting, because when out on the face you lose sight of your placements and are well aware of the swing fall and the extra rope you have out. Once you can manage to get in a piece (0.75 cam) into the roof the rest of the route goes safe and is quite reasonable. Keep a co... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : That's Weak (5.10a)
By: Gary Schmidt When: May 8, 2011

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Comments: Thought this was a very nice long sport route with several interesting moves. If you do veer to the obvious looking easier stuff to your right, of course that lessens the grade. Your choice!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : The Vampire (5.9)
By: Gary Schmidt When: May 8, 2011

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Comments: Actually kind of a fun route. Has a bit of an alpine flavor to it in terms of the rock itself. (i.e. a bit of moss, looser rock here and there). The first pitch of 5.7 is the worst in terms of quality, so if you would like better rock you can climb That's Weak and arrive at the same anchors. The rest of the climb has some very nice sections and interesting moves. Has a few cruxes so recommend you be solid at the grade. Nice views and a fun adventuresome outing. Solid 5.9.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Twin Cracks (5.9)
By: Gary Schmidt When: Apr 2, 2011

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Comments: Fun climb. Did the left option at the top as forgot the 4 in the parking. Maybe slightly stiffer this way but definitely still fun. Lots of big rope grooves at the top from it being top roped. Solid 5.8


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : The Naked and Dead (5.10 R)
By: Gary Schmidt When: Apr 2, 2011

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Comments: imho the first pitch is pretty stiff for a 5.8. Deserves at least a plus. Think the description at the top assigning it a 9 is probably a bit closer. But of course everything is subjective. Just comparing it to say the first pitch of the Bastille which some people now rate as 8 or Reggae in Eldo for example. Quite a bit harder. Good fun pitch though!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Lost Arrow Spire : Lost Arrow (5.7 R)
By: Gary Schmidt When: Jul 17, 2010

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Comments: Just a second to the fact that the second pitch is completely and easily protectable until the last 20 ft or so, and by then if you have made it this far feels like a walk up. there is a crack a few feet left of the ridge line that takes mid size bomber cams.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - West : Scream Cheese (5.9)
By: Gary Schmidt When: Jun 27, 2010

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Comments: No cooler 5.9 sport route. Yes run outs between 3 and 4 but the holds are great. the crux is getting off all those big chicken heads that have spoiled you onto the whimpering slab section. But one or two tricky moves of that and the going gets good. fun fun, great combo with Skyline. Consider a belay anchor at the bottom as the stance is a little exposed.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Skyline (5.8)
By: Gary Schmidt When: Jun 27, 2010

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Comments: the "crux" traverse really is not that bad. Can easily put in two good pieces along the way with good hands and adequate feet. Such a cool climb and yes a 60 meter (contrary to the guidebook) will get you down.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Lower Breadloaves - Provo W... : Easy Corner (5.5)
By: Gary Schmidt When: Jun 27, 2010

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Comments: wow, a sandbag 5.5! All ye new leaders, this is not 5.5. I would call the trough a sneaky 5.6. Great climb though. To get off use the second set of anchors east of the climb. Much easier stance than "tennish" and a 60 meter makes makes the ground by about 8 ft. Some folks may still wish a belay down to this anchor.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : No More War (5.10a)
By: Gary Schmidt When: Apr 10, 2010

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Comments: In MNO, the initial flaring crack portion has a lot more "bite" to it than it may look from the ground. My advice is best be solid at 5.8 and a bit more before hopping on to lead this thing. Great fun though! (There is an obvious tree at the end of the initial, flaring crack with slings on it if you wish to quite here an top rope.)


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: Gary Schmidt When: Feb 1, 2010

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Comments: Yes, and per Chris' comment above about belaying the road, I actually threw my rope down on the road while rappelling down off of Werk Supp and a car came and drove right over it! Didn't even bother to try and go around.


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