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Yaak Crack 11c in Red Rocks, NV


Member Since: Jan 5, 2007
Last Visit: Jul 20, 2014
Contact Gary Savage


Point Rank: # 778
Total Points: 806
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Gary Savage been climbing?










Contributions


All 181 | Routes 53 | Areas 6 | Photos 35 | Page Improvments | Comments 11 | Posts 19 | Stars 57 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Pier : Almost but not Quite (5.12c)
By: Gary Savage When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: Actually it's the second route to the LEFT of under the board walk.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Caustic Cock (5.11b)
By: Gary Savage When: Mar 15, 2007

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Comments: I asked Paul before I replaced the bolt. Now you don't have to go to the hospital if a hand hold breaks.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Sweet Pain (5.12a)
By: Gary Savage When: Feb 10, 2007

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Comments: Sweet Pain is one of those soft Red Rocks routes. The grade is closer to 11c. It's still a great route just heavily grade inflated.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Glitter Gulch (5.11b)
By: Gary Savage When: Feb 10, 2007

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Comments: This one is 10D. There is only one hard move between the first and second bolt. The rest of the route is 10b.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Fingers In A Lightsocket (5.11+)
By: Gary Savage When: Feb 6, 2007

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Comments: If you stay relaxed there is a stem rest right before the final crux. You can easily place a couple of small cams (I think they were #2 metolius size) and get a good shake before doing the last couple of moves.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Wall of Confusion
By: Gary Savage When: Feb 3, 2007

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Comments: Promises is probably more like 12a rather than 12b. The opening moves are the crux especially for us vertically challenged climbers. The double hand jam rest above the roof will let you completely depump for the last section.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dog Wall : Cujo (5.11d) : Photo
By: Gary Savage When: Jan 30, 2007

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Comments: On top of that she's a damn good rock climber :)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Gift Rapped (5.11b)
By: Gary Savage When: Jan 27, 2007

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Comments: This one isn't as hard as the grade given in the Swain book. Probably more like 10d. Makes a nice warm up.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Sonic Youth Cliff : Sonic Youth (5.11b/c)
By: Gary Savage When: Jan 5, 2007

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Comments: More like 11d unless your an endurance monster.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dog Wall : Dog Logic (aka Here Kitty, ... (5.11b)
By: Gary Savage When: Jan 5, 2007

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Comments: The crux was not bolted well on this climb. If you come off on the delicate crux your belayer had better be paying attention to keep you off the ground. Of course one can always stick clip the second bolt and avoid a sprained ankle altogether. BTW if your over 6' the crux is probably 10d, 11c for us short people.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Pier : Basement (5.11b/c)
By: Gary Savage When: Jan 5, 2007

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Comments: The route is probably more like 11.c but its only one move at the start. If you make it past that you get big rests and the top isn't to hard if you trend around left on the arete.