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Profile pic taken at Muir Beach.


Member Since: Jul 26, 2010
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Gary N


Point Rank: # 1,442
Total Points: 400
Last Year: 257
Last 30 Days: 5
17 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Gary N been climbing?










Contributions


All (568) | Routes (4) | Areas | Photos (67) | Comments (25) | Posts (43) | Stars (388) | Ratings (41)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Durango : Fume Wall
By: Gary N When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: A new route, 'Unknown 5.10c/d', has been added at the far left end of Fume Wall, just to the left of 'Nine Lives'. A lot of the descriptions are based off of 'Nine Lives', saying "This is the x route from the left." Just a heads up, as things need to be shifted now.

Edit: Thanks for updating this page and all the routes. Everything is in order now.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Double Exposure Direct (5.12 R)
By: Gary N When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: If you're going to top-rope this after leading, be sure to extend the master point over the lip at the top. We had 2 draws on the chains, and they still didn't reach over the edge. Most horrendous rope drag I've ever had. Needed two people to belay. I went up to clean the route after we were done climbing it. Threaded rope through chains and rapped down. Again, it was incredibly difficult to pull the rope. If the chains extended over the edge, it would make things so much better. If I get the ch... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Double Exposure (5.10)
By: Gary N When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for your hard work, Devin. I (we) appreciate all you do for the community. Got on this again since the chains were added and have a few things to say:

If you're going to top-rope this after leading, be sure to extend the master point over the lip at the top. We had 2 draws on the chains, and they still didn't reach over the edge. Most horrendous rope drag I've ever had. Needed two people to belay. I went up to clean the route after we were done climbing it. Threaded rope through chains a... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : Jabba the Hutt Levitates (5.10d)
By: Gary N When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: ***WARNING***

Tried to lead this today. Got up to the flakes and pulled gently on the lowest one. It moved about 4". A bunch of small rocks and dirt came down. I ended up backing off the route. I'm afraid of what will come down if I pull the lower block out. They all look stacked on top of each other. I'll try to head up there again soon and see if I can rap in and have a better look. This may be the end of Jabba levitating.

Edit on 7/2/2013: Rapped in on this thing today. Sent a few big flak... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : Pine River Trad : Tradistan Tower : Nuggernaut (5.8)
By: Gary N When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: A fun route. I prefer this route over No Country For Old Men. The Nuggernaut offers what I believe to be a more direct line/route finding and more sustained climbing at about the 5.7-5.8 level. Five good pitches of more technical climbing vs. 3 pitches and some scrambling.

A little descent beta: follow cairns from the summit south-east-ish to a bolted rap anchor. Make one single rope rap to a large tree with webbing. From here, make a double rope rap to a small, singular tree with webb... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : Pine River Trad : Tradistan Tower : No Country For Old Men (5.10+)
By: Gary N When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: A few notes:

Approach - from Nuggernaut, you'll pass a fairly large amphitheater with a huge cave, continue past this one to a smaller amphitheater just 'up and around to the left'. See the photos.

Climb - for pitch two, I believe we were just a tad too far right. A fun line but certainly not 'killer'. I'm excited to go back and check out the actual pitch two, as this certainly looks to be the best pitch of the climb. See the photos. The crux pitch was so-so, too short. After this, we ended up... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : The Switch (5.10)
By: Gary N When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: This route is listed as route 45, 'Unnamed 5.10' in the second edition of Bloom's guide. Good fun. 2.5 stars.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Wigglin' Worm (5.11)
By: Gary N When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: No more blocks and/or flake right off the ground in the wide section. Still nice and dirty though. I placed a #6 Camalot to protect this section.

This route is exactly 35m long. Our 70m made it back to the ground, but the knot at the end of the rope was against the belay device. Tie a knot in the end of the rope if using a 70m!

Fun, interesting, and diverse route. Not an easy 5.11, as Tony B stated earlier, but certainly not runout.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Wish You Were Here (5.11)
By: Gary N When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: Placed two awesome nuts on this fun and interesting route. Be sure to watch the end of your ropes if using a 60m, as it just reaches the ground.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Four Friends (5.10c)
By: Gary N When: Feb 3, 2013

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Comments: Did this route in two pitches as described above. Had major rope drag. Would do it in 3 pitches next time.

The first pitch is nothing to write home about. It is filled with bushes, jaggars, loose rocks, and dirt. After completing the first pitch, I was going to not give this route any stars. I took a variety of gear for pitch one. From #0.3 BD C4 to #4 BD C4 and a set of nuts. I built a gear anchor using two #2 BD C4s and a #3 BD C4. If doing this in one pitch, doubles w... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : Steve Likes Offwidth (5.9)
By: Gary N When: Dec 4, 2012

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Comments: Hmmmm. Interesting.

I took a #5 & #6 BD C4, #4 Big Bro (blue), and some stoppers. Two #6s would be fine instead of the Big Bro. Maybe an extra #5 if you've got it.

Bring some gear to build an anchor at the top, as there are no bolts. I used a #1 & #4 BD C4 and some stoppers.

To get down, walk climbers' left to a set of bolts with thin cord and 2 oval screwlinks. Rap to the top of I Need A Shower, then once more to the ground.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Texas Two Step (5.10)
By: Gary N When: Nov 28, 2012

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Comments: Frances Fierst's gear recommendation is spot on. I took more #3's since I don't have #3.5's. Took a #4 as well. Glad to have had it. Mark's anchor is holding up just fine, but the bolts need to be replaced. The left bolt was loose and sticking out of the rock about 1/4". Both bolts are rusty.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Apple Cider (5.8)
By: Gary N When: Nov 13, 2012

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Comments: Found two pieces of rock gear on this route today, 11/13/12. PM me with what they were and the markings, and I'll get them back to you.

Edit: 12/13/2012 - After one month without claim, gear has been passed on to someone who needs it/will use it. Thanks for your generous contribution.


Location: CO : Silverton area : Eureka area : Eureka Pillar : Hardrock Miner (5.8)
By: Gary N When: Nov 9, 2012

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Comments: Fun (sport) route in an alpine environment. My partner and I were following our friends up and let them get up a few pitches due to classic San Juan choss. We then proceeded to see if we could link pitches and we did the route in 3 pitches. Here's what we came up with:

Pitch 1 - 9 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor and chains, short pitch, but lots of rope drag on this wandering pitch. I belayed at the top of the first pitch.

Pitch 2 - 7 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor and chains, short pitch. My partner a... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Triple Tree Area (Far Left) : Triple Tree Direct (5.8)
By: Gary N When: Nov 8, 2012

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Comments: 11/7/2012 - Found four pieces of rock climbing gear right at the base of this climb. PM me if you think it's yours and let me know what you're missing. Thanks!

Edit: 12/7/2012 - After one month without claim, gear has been passed on to someone who needs it/will use it. Thanks for your generous contribution.


Location: CO : Durango : Cascade Canyon : Canyon Entrance : Genesis (5.10)
By: Gary N When: Nov 7, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this twice yesterday. Didn't know the jug was removed. That explains why it felt hard for 5.10b/c. Consensus between my partner and me is 5.11a.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo
By: Gary N When: Sep 18, 2012

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Comments: I found a ring about halfway up the approach trail to Way Rambo on 9/15/2012. It was next to 1/2" vinyl tape, also pictured below. If it's yours, shoot me a PM.

Ring found on Way Rambo approach. 9/15/2012.
Ring found on Way Rambo approach. 9/15/2012.



Location: doligo : imalush : Photo
By: Gary N When: Apr 6, 2012

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Comments: Now that looks pretty yummy!


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Deception Pass : Rosario Beach (Refrigerator...
By: Gary N When: Mar 9, 2012

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Comments: Refrigerator Wall is located to the southwest of Mt. Erie. From the intersection of State Route 20 and Rosario Road (where Pass Lake is), head west for 0.8 miles on Rosario Road. You will see a "Y" in the road. Veer left onto Rosario Beach Road.

There is a wall that can be rappelled on the left hand side as you are going down the hill. Pickup a faint trail that gets better as you get higher. A five minute approach gets you to the top of the rappel cliff. Anchor using the tree. A 60m rope will j... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : X Rock : Gold Wall : Gold Wall (5.10+)
By: Gary N When: Jan 14, 2012

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Comments: I've only been in Durango a few days and have only climbed a few routes, but this has been the best one so far. So good.


Location: WA : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Sunshine Wall : King Pins : Crossing the Threshold (5.8)
By: Gary N When: Nov 16, 2011

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Comments: "Note that you have to bail left onto the next column over to reach the anchors, which are shared with another route whose name I've forgotten."

Chains to the left are "Clip ‘em or Skip ‘em".


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Birdbrain - While its still in.Colorado / Rockies PartnersGary NDec 1, 2013
re: Best HeadlampClimbing Gear DiscussionGary NSep 20, 2013
re: Toprope Master Point QuestionBeginning ClimbersGary NAug 14, 2013
re: Rap anchor with 2 pitonsTrad ClimbingGary NAug 1, 2013
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