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Member Since: Mar 20, 2003
Last Visit: Dec 11, 2012
Contact Gary Kleiger


Point Rank: # 6,333
Total Points: 45
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (29) | Routes (1) | Areas (1) | Photos (2) | Comments (10) | Posts (8) | Stars (5) | Ratings (2)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - East Face : Geronimo (5.7)
By: Gary Kleiger When: Feb 2, 2005

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Comments: Chris,

I respectfully disagree. If this route were on the ground, it would be a boulder problem, and a popular one at that.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Peyote Cracks Formation : Peyote Cracks Formation - E... : Apartheid (5.12a)
By: Gary Kleiger When: Jan 24, 2005

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Comments: No Randy, its not just you.

Yes, this is a short route. But is the length of the route the most important aspect of quality? IMHO, its the quality of movement that counts most.

As for the positive aspects of the route, once you reach the first bolt, every move thereafter is on good rock with interesting holds and technical, bouldery movement. If you are scared of hitting the dihedral, do as we did and set it up on TR. A stellar sport climb.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Imaginary Voyage Formation : Imaginary Voyage (5.10d)
By: Gary Kleiger When: Nov 29, 2004

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Comments: We went out there Sunday to check it out. Seemed like it would be difficult/awkward to protect the roof move(s). I am wondering if people use a big cam at the lip, and if so, will a #4 camalot work or do you have to bring a #5 up there?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Eas... : Leave it to Beaver (aka The... (5.12a)
By: Gary Kleiger When: Oct 29, 2004

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Comments: I read in the latest Rock and Ice (Ethics issue) that someone chipped footholds into the Beaver. The quote came from Bachar. I have never been on this route, but can anyone confirm this? Man I hope that is not the case!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles in the Sky : Pinky and the Brain (5.9)
By: Gary Kleiger When: Mar 29, 2004

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Comments: Fair to poor rock quality. Over-bolted IMHO.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : South Astro Dome : ... : Solid Gold (5.10a)
By: Gary Kleiger When: Mar 19, 2004

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Comments: I climbed this route last spring. It was cold and I couldn't feel my fingers until the 3rd bolt or so. Many of the moves were challenging and I felt fully engaged. I milked all of the rests that I could, providing me with what seemed like alot of time standing on only small edges. And then the mantle, far above the bolt, providing both excitement and demanding the determination to concentrate for one more important move.

Solid Gold means so much more to me than grades or style of climbing... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Stick to What (5.9 R)
By: Gary Kleiger When: May 19, 2003

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Comments: Can be climbed directly above the first bolt too.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - East Face : Butterfly Crack (5.11c)
By: Gary Kleiger When: May 13, 2003

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Comments: Maybe the rating should be V2 for the boulder problem, and 5.9 for the route.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles in the Sky : Dolphin (5.7)
By: Gary Kleiger When: Apr 23, 2003

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Comments: I'll have to agree with Dave on this one. The dolphin is a great route.Really not hard for OW, and as Dave points out, at least some OW skillsare necessary to do super classic routes, such as the Steck-Salathe.By the way Dave, the classic 10a at the base of El Cap would be theSacherer Cracker.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Barker Dam Bouldering : Gunsmoke Area : ... : Gunsmoke (V3)
By: Gary Kleiger When: Mar 20, 2003

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Comments: This is just such an excellent problem. It is one of my favorites. I only wish it wasn't so popular as the area can be quite crowded with beginners.

V2: This problem, while long and strenuous, has no truly difficult moves on it. Also, in the interest of rating problems to suggest the difficulty, and not use it to boost one's ego (see Happy Boulders), lets call this one V2.