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Leading Blue Collar Crack.


Member Since: Feb 9, 2012
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Garret Nuzzo-Jones

Point Rank: # 507
Total Points: 1,274
Last Year: 781
Last 30 Days: 3
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Garret Nuzzo-Jones been climbing?










Garret Nuzzo-Jones

 
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Contributions


All 1242 | Routes 33 | Areas 3 | Photos 155 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 121 | Posts 323 | Stars 415 | Ratings 191
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Narcolepsy Area : Turn Of The Sentry (5.8)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: Fun pitch but honestly the best moves are the transfer onto the last moves of Dream Slate. Probably better as a TR after leading Dream Slate. A 'walk off' looks like a 5.6 downclimb to the west.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : Rowdy (5.10)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Mar 23, 2015

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Comments: The #4 isn't really needed. Gobbled up all 5 #3s I brought with me though.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Private Pizza Wall : Private Pizza (5.9)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Mar 12, 2015

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Comments: Pretty feasible to do with a double rack if you conserve your hand size pieces by placing on the left, even if you like to sew it up. Probably one of the friendlier hand cracks around and an absolute blast to hop on.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Hot Toddy (5.10b)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Mar 8, 2015

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Comments: I placed a #2 at the base where the handcrack starts and then nothing but #3s all the way to the top. A larger cam can be placed in the offwidth at the top but it'll frog you a bit. A #3 could be placed in the back anyway.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Working Class Hero (5.9)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Mar 8, 2015

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Comments: This is about as good as it gets for a 5.9 finger crack. Has a short steeper section to get over and a tiny bit of rattly fingers. Other than that it's buttery locks all the way up. Climbs like The Coffin in LCC. Fantastic.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : No Name Crack (5.10)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Mar 8, 2015

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Comments: This thing is fantastic for those of us blessed with big hands. Bring a healthy helping of #2s and #3s (I enjoyed having about 5 of each). This thing is sustained. A .4 or so slots nicely on the little crack on the left to save a piece at the start. A #1 will fit in at the top.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Unknown Slab (5.9+)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Feb 25, 2015

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Comments: Unfortunately I don't have any pictures. It is squeezed in between the gully and the tree. The tree has been trimmed a bit, but it seems like people trim it to keep off of barefoot as well.

Short little line with 3 bolts. The anchors are just a few feet below the barefoot ones.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Comfort Zone (5.9-)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Feb 19, 2015

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Comments: I've done the route to the left and right going up to the final bolt. It's easier, but far less interesting on the left side. Go to the right into the shallow dihedral for superior friction moves and a exciting finish. The crux comes after clipping the bolt anyway so you're almost doing the moves on toprope. Fantastic moves reaching for that final chickenhead.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Unknown Slab (5.10)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Feb 5, 2015

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Comments: Really great slab route with some interesting features and moves. Has a little bit of grit which will get you puckered when you step on it 5 feet up from a bolt. You can throw a cam in Blue Collar near the top before the final bolt.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Final Link (5.9)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Feb 1, 2015

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Comments: The mantel is kind of awkward and detracts from the absolutely immaculate slab above. Some of the best slabbing action in Little.


Location: UT : Ibex : Island of Stone : A Stone Alone, Awa (5.10)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Jan 29, 2015

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Comments: There is a 5.12 bolted line a few feet to the right of this route.


Location: UT : Ibex : Newlywed Area : Touchy Feely (5.9+)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Jan 25, 2015

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Comments: Protects well through the crux which was nice since my partner and I mistakenly got on this thinking it was the fiddly 5.8 just to the left. Lots of groping around on terrible slopery holds on this route. Bring your slab footwork game for this one!


Location: UT : Ibex : Newlywed Area : Almost Paradise (5.9+)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Jan 25, 2015

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Comments: Protected well with QDs. Might be able to slip in a coupe small pieces. Awkward moves, but fairly secure.


Location: UT : Saint George : Underworld
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: Dow Williams has some excellent info about the crag and approach on his Summitpost page. Approach from the south via a high clearance 2WD dirt road and hike along a well defined trail down into the canyon. The cliffs aren't visible from satellite imagery, but obvious once you get to the canyon rim. Access from the north would be on private property.


Location: UT : Saint George : Pine Valley : Lewis Carroll Wall : Bangarang (5.10b)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Doesn't look particularly interesting from below, but like many of the routes around it climbs very well. Fantastic movement getting into the steep part of the dihedral and high quality crack above. Steeper than it looks. Don't bring anything larger than a #3.


Location: UT : Saint George : Pine Valley : Unemployment wall : Up The Rabbit's Hole (5.9)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: There's a large loose block just below the final bolt. Jiggled, but didn't come free. Lots of folks are yarding on this. Chains are in a super awkward location too.


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Elizabeth Blue Moss (5.9)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Not really in character with the multi-pitch aesthetic of the rest of the wall this route was a pleasant day-end surprise. The varnish isn't as juggy as elsewhere and the moves at the top feel committing.


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Remains to be Seen (5.10a)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: The opener was cruiser for me (6'4") but very stout for my partner (5'7"). Seems to be height dependent.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Cave Route (5.7)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: I thought this route was very underrated. Great rock quality, fun moves and position. Just don't hop on it if you're a 5.7 leader.


Location: UT : Ibex : Sheep Rock Area : Y2K Crackdown (5.7 PG13)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Jan 15, 2015

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Comments: Fun route involving some tough cranks over bulges with lots of stemming. Big holds but physical. Line goes straight up the most obvious crack system. Calling it a hand crack is a stretch. It's more of a chimney/offwidth in a lot of spots. The middle crux involves pulling over a chockstone formation or if you're really tiny, going behind it.


Location: UT : Saint George : Bluff Street Cracks : Red Warrior (5.9+)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: Superb rock quality in a fun corner that varies from thin hands to a fingers section. I have larger hands and I could barely get tips in the thinnest section.

Bring some slings to extend the anchor.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Armatron (5.9)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Jan 5, 2015

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Comments: !!!

The most chalked varnish hold directly above the bolt on P2 (the crux moves) is on it's way out. I'm a big guy and the hold flexed when I started pulling on it. It's fairly easy to grab some varnish on your left and skip that block. Pulling it off would send it right towards your belayer. If you look at the yellow sandstone holding it onto the wall you'll see the decay happening.


Location: VA : Sharp Top : Middle Rocks
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Dec 26, 2014

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Comments: A TR can be easily set up for both Apathetic Lift and Glacier Meditation without leading the routes. Just scramble around to the left (east) to a ledge at the 3/4 mark of the climbs. Duck under a boulder on your left and squeeze your way to the top. A quad-length sling will drape around a big horn at the top, no cams needed for an anchor.


Location: VA : Sharp Top : Middle Rocks : Apathetic Lift (5.7)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Dec 26, 2014

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Comments: Short, but worth doing if you have a rope on the better climb to the right. Also needs some cleaning.


Location: VA : Sharp Top : Middle Rocks : Glacier Meditation (5.8)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Dec 26, 2014

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Comments: The start is cruxy with a committing mantle. I got a nice orange metolius TCU in behind the flake. The rest of the climb protects very nicely with nuts and medium sized pieces. I placed several #.75s, #1s, a #2 and a #3. The crack petering out in the middle makes for a fantastic move.


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