Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.


Member Since: Feb 9, 2012
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Garret Nuzzo-Jones


Point Rank: # 1,181
Total Points: 493
Last Year: 331
Last 30 Days: 31
6 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Garret Nuzzo-Jones been climbing?










Garret Nuzzo-Jones

 
Contributions

Contributions


All (741) | Routes | Areas | Photos (84) | Comments (73) | Posts (241) | Stars (233) | Ratings (110)
Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Saint George : Bluff Street Cracks : Wide Boy (5.10a)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: 16 hours ago

view comment >>
Comments: Can be done safely with #s 1/5/4/2/2/2 Camalots. Might squeeze in a 3 somewhere if you wanted to. Very fun and strenuous for the length. Anchors are in a great location.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: 16 hours ago

view comment >>
Comments: On the first pitch I started up the crack directly below the tree. Slightly awkward move but not terrible. For some reason I thought the flake to the right of the route was the correct way up. Liebacked that monster flake and had to run it out big time without any large gear. Felt more like a 5.8++ sequence. Not recommended.

Keep going past pitch four. The fifth pitch is fantastic and the fourth class is quick and painless. The views from the top of the buttress into the cirque over Power Failu... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - Lower : Chorus Line (5.9)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: 6 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Actually a little more fun than Choir Boy. The runouts on easier terrain for the upper section keep things interesting.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - Upper Wall : Skyscraper (5.8)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: 6 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: A couple of the bolts on this route are starting to get fairly grungy. Fortunately most if not all of them can be backed up with pieces nearby. I would highly recommend bringing a selection of cams unless you like running it out 20-30 feet between aging bits of hardware. Some judicious use of alpine draws will help keep the rope drag manageable. Rap off Glenlivet anchors with a single 70m.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Pebbles and Bambam (5.9)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Apr 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route was a lot of fun. Kind of confusing and wandering with all the bolts up there now, but super fun.

Based on everyone's beta here I believe you will clip a total of four bolts on the route. Three in a very slightly rightward trending line and then the nice long runout left to the fourth bolt in the water streak. A tiny cam could be placed above that before the chains but it's easy ground and if you ran it out to that fourth bolt you should be comfy here. There is a possible fifth bolt ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Blue Collar Crack (5.9)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Apr 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A #4 is nice to have, but not required. Could be protected before and after easily. There's just a great stance where it's convenient to plug in a #4.

Make sure to bring a good amount of runners for this climb, especially if you do the original start. Also a 70m didn't quite lower me down from the chains. Some funkiness had to be worked out in the chimney. 70m does rap down quite comfortably though (route just wanders a bit).


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Bumble Bee Wall : Addis Ababa (5.7)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Apr 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Feels kind of soft compared to the rest of the stuff on the wall, but fits in nicely with climbs at Reservoir Ridge. Not particularly sustained, but worth doing once.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Bumble Bee Wall : Sin Nombre (5.9+)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Apr 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I left a sling and biner on the upper piton in the cave. That anchor is a disaster waiting to happen. This is a climb that really would benefit from a real anchor.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Zesty (5.8+)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Mar 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The funky friction move at the second bolt is a pretty honest 5.8+ move. The crack is crazy good. Placing that many #2s and #3s in a row is something usually reserved a 5.10 at Indian Creek.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Plumb Line Gully : Boomerang (5.10a)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Mar 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Stiff route, quite a bit harder than most 5.10a climbs in LCC. Vaguely reminiscent of Disco Duck, but without any chickenheads for feet.

Watch for the extremely sharp rope-eating crack towards the tope. Core-shot my rope badly.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Baja Breakdown (5.9)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Mar 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The first two pitons can be backed up with ballnuts quite well. Much better than trusting some old iron.

Blowing the moves to the first bolt out on the left would result in a pretty nasty fall back into the dihedral, but it's fairly secure. The right finish is in need of serious gardening. Step left to the bolt and do the route that way, it's the superior finish.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Barefoot in Barbados (5.10a)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Mar 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Yellow TCU fits the little pocket perfectly. Just make sure to extend it or you'll regret the rope drag.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : The Big Deal (5.9)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Mar 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Could probably get by without a #4. If you drag it up there you'll find a home for it though.

You can rap down with a single 70m. A 60m would not work. We rapped down the 4th pitch, then switched to the anchors on PBR Streetgang. Rapped straight down that route to the ground. Several of the raps are rope stretchers, it would be very easy to go off the end of your rope if you aren't careful.

This route is just fantastic the whole way up.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Black Rose : Dynamite Crack (5.6)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Mar 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Pretty fun, but has a kind of alpine feel with how much loose rock there is in the cracks. Make sure your belayer has a helmet and doesn't stand right below you.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Frigid Air Buttress : Frigid Air Buttress (5.9)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Feb 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Had to bail after I busted a hold on P5 and sprained my ankle. Great route up to that point. We opted to lower directly off a bush on the top of P4 down to the one lonely bolt. Did a double rope rap off the bolt which put us on a ledge slightly south of the top of P2. There are bail slings in this area which let you get down with a single rope to some easy (without a sprained ankle) class 3 terrain which will put you in the gully.

#4 wasn't absolutely needed on P4, but definitely didn't h... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : The High Life (5.8)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Feb 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Basically a compressed version of Perhaps in LCC, UT. Just as fantastic, even with the crack seeping a bit. Excellent route, get on it!


Location: Northern Utah & Idaho : Utah Ice Conditions, 2013 -... : Post : Photo
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Jan 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: It's much less than vert. Willard Canyon probably doesn't have anything that hits 90 degrees.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : The Green Adjective (5.9)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Jan 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Finally sent this clean. Had to work up to it and then fired up it in the cold temps. A blue mastercam is the perfect first piece after the 5.9 start followed by a green peenut, a 0 camalot (which sits perfectly one way, but is crap the other) for the crux and a final .3 X4 for the finish. Temperature matters for this climb.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Sail : The Brass Monkey (5.7)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Jan 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Heads up 5.7. More "honest" to the grade than some of it's neighbors on The Sail. I felt comfortable with 4 quickdraws for the bolts and a single #2 Camalot for the top section. Just extend it out.

Anchors are not easily visible from the ground, just head up after the fourth bolt and make for the arete. Bring runners for the anchors if you plan on toproping, they're set back a bit.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Allen's Ridge Area : Hanging Slab Gully (WI3)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Jan 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Rap rings are obvious on the top of the first pitch but I didn't see any slings further up. Might have to do some digging in the snow. It's also quite easy to downclimb that upper part of the gully, it's low angle for most of the ways.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Sail : Bong Bong Firecracker (5.7)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Jan 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Great route the whole way up. Sandbagged for sure, but it's more just about the effort it takes to climb through the awkward sections than the insecurity you'll feel at any point. Lovely jams for those of use with larger hands and feet.

I took doubles in Camalot #4 and triples in #3 and I didn't feel unsafe at all. The route will take as many #3s as you want to haul up there. A BD #.75 is a nice final piece of pro once you pull up towards the tree area.

No bolts up top ... more >>


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Castle Rock - South Face : Diamonds in the Rough (5.10)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Jan 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Definitely no harder than 5.10a but well worth the effort if you're a couple pitches up Big Time. Crack is a bit dirty and has a nice little fern growing in it. Good crack technique and stemming keep this reasonable.

Bring a #.3 or something fairly small to protect the opening move. I had to do it unprotected and it made the climb a little spicy. You can stuff as many #.75s and #1s in this route as you can carry. I remember bringing at least one #2 as well. Guidebook say... more >>


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : South Hills : Bracksiek's Pillar : Alpinista Sista (5.9)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Jan 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: No gear is needed. A chickenhead can be slung on the way up the "2nd" micro pitch to protect it. Powerful but easy moves to get past it.

Both pitches are solid 5.9, with some improbable and fun movement.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : The Taco : South Ridge (5.8 PG13)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Jan 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Don't let the rating scare you away. The runout sections are 5.6 moves or easier. Bring a orange metolius and a yellow metolius for horizontals on the upper ridge. Bottom crack protects with standard hand size pieces. Slightly strenuous for 5.8 but fantastic climbing and position. Hit Mole Poblano on your way down.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Provo Canyon : Provo Canyon Ice : Bridal Veil Left (WI4-5)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Dec 17, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: There are bolted rap anchors to the right as you top out the first curtain. They're within a couple feet of the anchors for the top of Bridal Veil Right.

Quite a mess of tat on two different trees as you top the tongue of ice on lookers right. I think I also saw some tat on trees for lookers left, closer to the falls themselves.

A single 70m rope will get you down in two rappels.


Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>