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Leading Blue Collar Crack.


Member Since: Feb 9, 2012
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Garret Nuzzo-Jones


Point Rank: # 608
Total Points: 1,052
Last Year: 615
Last 30 Days: 150
12 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Garret Nuzzo-Jones been climbing?










Garret Nuzzo-Jones

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 1085 | Routes 19 | Areas 1 | Photos 147 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 109 | Posts 289 | Stars 349 | Ratings 170
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Saint George : Underworld
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Dow Williams has some excellent info about the crag and approach on his Summitpost page. Approach from the south via a high clearance 2WD dirt road and hike along a well defined trail down into the canyon. The cliffs aren't visible from satellite imagery, but obvious once you get to the canyon rim. Access from the north would be on private property.


Location: UT : Saint George : Pine Valley : Lewis Carroll Wall : Bangarang (5.10b)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Doesn't look particularly interesting from below, but like many of the routes around it climbs very well. Fantastic movement getting into the steep part of the dihedral and high quality crack above. Steeper than it looks. Don't bring anything larger than a #3.


Location: UT : Saint George : Pine Valley : Unemployment wall : Up The Rabbit's Hole (5.9)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: 5 days ago

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Comments: There's a large loose block just below the final bolt. Jiggled, but didn't come free. Lots of folks are yarding on this. Chains are in a super awkward location too.


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Elizabeth Blue Moss (5.9)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Not really in character with the multi-pitch aesthetic of the rest of the wall this route was a pleasant day-end surprise. The varnish isn't as juggy as elsewhere and the moves at the top feel committing.


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Remains to be Seen (5.10a)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: 5 days ago

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Comments: The opener was cruiser for me (6'4") but very stout for my partner (5'7"). Seems to be height dependent.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Cave Route (5.7)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: 5 days ago

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Comments: I thought this route was very underrated. Great rock quality, fun moves and position. Just don't hop on it if you're a 5.7 leader.


Location: UT : Ibex : Sheep Rock Area : Y2K Crackdown (5.7 PG13)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Jan 15, 2015

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Comments: Fun route involving some tough cranks over bulges with lots of stemming. Big holds but physical. Line goes straight up the most obvious crack system. Calling it a hand crack is a stretch. It's more of a chimney/offwidth in a lot of spots. The middle crux involves pulling over a chockstone formation or if you're really tiny, going behind it.


Location: UT : Saint George : Bluff Street Cracks : Red Warrior (5.9+)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: Superb rock quality in a fun corner that varies from thin hands to a fingers section. I have larger hands and I could barely get tips in the thinnest section.

Bring some slings to extend the anchor.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Armatron (5.9)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Jan 5, 2015

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Comments: !!!

The most chalked varnish hold directly above the bolt on P2 (the crux moves) is on it's way out. I'm a big guy and the hold flexed when I started pulling on it. It's fairly easy to grab some varnish on your left and skip that block. Pulling it off would send it right towards your belayer. If you look at the yellow sandstone holding it onto the wall you'll see the decay happening.


Location: VA : Sharp Top : Middle Rocks
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Dec 26, 2014

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Comments: A TR can be easily set up for both Apathetic Lift and Glacier Meditation without leading the routes. Just scramble around to the left (east) to a ledge at the 3/4 mark of the climbs. Duck under a boulder on your left and squeeze your way to the top. A quad-length sling will drape around a big horn at the top, no cams needed for an anchor.


Location: VA : Sharp Top : Middle Rocks : Apathetic Lift (5.7)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Dec 26, 2014

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Comments: Short, but worth doing if you have a rope on the better climb to the right. Also needs some cleaning.


Location: VA : Sharp Top : Middle Rocks : Glacier Meditation (5.8)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Dec 26, 2014

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Comments: The start is cruxy with a committing mantle. I got a nice orange metolius TCU in behind the flake. The rest of the climb protects very nicely with nuts and medium sized pieces. I placed several #.75s, #1s, a #2 and a #3. The crack petering out in the middle makes for a fantastic move.


Location: UT : Ibex : Snakeskin Buttress : Bernerinnen Anstatt Klapper... (5.9)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Dec 20, 2014

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Comments: The Pitch 3 bulge felt like a sandbag at 5.9, but I've also got huge hands which made the #1 sized flaring jams feel very insecure. The crux protects great with a #.75 so it's perfectly safe, just kind of awkward. Run the first two pitches together for the best experience.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Sunny Side : Unknown Reality (5.10c)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Dec 19, 2014

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Comments: No need to lieback or pull on crimps. This baby is a (mildly) sandy fist crack with some great feet.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Red Neck Slab (5.10a) : Photo
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: I assumed it wasn't the way the FAs intended the route to be climbed. Pretty fun variation though.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Red Neck Slab (5.10a)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: Despite the piles of rat shit at the start this route climbed surprisingly well. Some fun leaning crack moves led me to the first bolt. Being tall I could clip it from a layback stance in the crack. From there it is possible to climb the slab up to the edge like a giant chimney, keeping one arm on the ceiling. Eventually the chimney runs out and you have to make a transition onto the slab for the final two bolts. Still, it's an awesome way to climb part of the route.


Location: UT : Ibex : Quartermoon Tower : East Face : Aurora Borealis/Lunar Power (5.10a/b) : Photo
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Dec 6, 2014

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Comments: Look how blown out those shoes are. Gross.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Plasma (5.10a)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Dec 6, 2014

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Comments: Definitely a PG13 route. A fall at the start (the crux) could be rough. Wished I had some offset cams for the start. Once the crux is over the route is 5.7/5.8 for the remainder. Very fun and worthwhile though.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dogwood Crag : Quartzite and (No) Stainles... (5.10a)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Dec 2, 2014

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Comments: I climbed this route the way that I think was intended. Pretty fun with a cool move to reach the chains from the chimney. A bit like Narcosis further up the canyon. The chains are visible pretty easily if you step 20 or 30 feet back from the belay area and spy them at the top.

The final moves to the chains feel wildly overhanging and are extremely committing for a trad route of the grade. Fortunately there's great gear and the moves honestly clock in at a hard 5.8 or maybe 5.9. Just get your fe... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Groovin' (5.8+)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Nov 28, 2014

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Comments: This felt a step easier than Satan's Corner. A reasonable 5.8 for LCC and an absolute blast to climb. Reminiscent of Perhaps with some trickier footwork thrown in. Bring plenty of alpine draws!


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Schoolroom Area : Marble Slate (5.7)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: 2 bolts and then chains. A bit spicy for a 5.7. Bring some long draws/runners for the chains, they're not very close together.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : First East Face (5.7)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Aug 29, 2014

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Comments: The first pitch is awkward, loose and doesn't take pro well. The second pitch improves a bit and the third pitch gets to the good stuff. Final pitch felt like it had a move or two that was harder than 5.7. Bring a large selection of runners and a full set of doubles. No bolted belays or slings. Watch out for loose rock, there's some big pieces waiting to drop.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Bill Steal (5.6)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: The listing is for 180 feet, but the chain anchors allow you to easily lower down with a 70m. Pretty sure a 60m would also lower off fine.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Narcolepsy Area : Narcosis (5.7)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: An underrated climb. Great movement in the corner with a section of squeeze chimney that is so few moves it's actually pleasant. Make sure you bring some extra long runners to figure out the chains at the top.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Narcolepsy Area : Involuntary Release (5.10a)
By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Great climbing. Typical BCC trad featuring just a couple of jams and a lot of face. I placed a 3# at the top. Bring a single rack in sizes larger than .75, doubles in smaller sizes. Anchors are in a fine spot and have no issues.

You can TR Dream Slate with a directional off those anchors pretty easily. Just have the last man climb up to the Involuntary Release anchors and clean from there.


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