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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Fuel Injected Hardbody (5.12- PG13)
By: GabeO When: Mar 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you've got fat fingers, don't even think about it unless you're a 5.12+ climber.
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Location: Fall Guy : various : Photo
By: GabeO When: Dec 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty sure that's my pic. What's up with that?
GO
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Desert Vuarnet (5.12-)
By: GabeO When: Oct 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was very similar to Quarter of a Man. But this felt at least a half letter grade easier.
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Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Dude's Jam Crack (5.11a)
By: GabeO When: Aug 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As good or better than Howdy Doody Time and roughly the same difficulty. The best route I've done to date on the crag. 3 1/2 stars.
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Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Dude's Five Nine (5.9)
By: GabeO When: Aug 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There appear to be three distinct starts to this line. The one furthest on the left (in the corner/crack) seems to be the most obvious and is the one I did. But it's possible that the one furthest on the right is the one the grade is based upon. The one on the left felt 5.9+/10- to me.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Justify (5.12b)
By: GabeO When: Aug 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely a good route for someone with good "bouldering" strength. Sadly, that's not me. My fingers felt so weak!
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Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Higher Calling (5.11d)
By: GabeO When: Jul 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Both my partner and I found the third pitch substantially harder than the second. Yes, pitch two has a fair bit of 5.11 climbing but only one really tricky-to-read 5.11+ move. Pitch 3 on the other hand is nearly all 5.11 if you read every move just right, otherwise, off you go. And in order to keep it at the grade you have to wander as much as five or six feet off the bolt line in a number of places. Very unintuitive (not to mention spooky). With that said, this is a good climb.
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Punchbowl : Drive By Shooting (5.11d)
By: GabeO When: Jul 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: By the way, I think the crux is a bit height dependent. If you're taller than me (5.7) there would be an easier way to finish the crux. And the way I did it would be still harder for anyone shorter than me. Although... there were also some moves that were scrunchy for me, so tall folks might have issues too.
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Punchbowl : Drive By Shooting (5.11d)
By: GabeO When: Jul 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Absolutely superb route. Unfortunately, the bolt spacing is a bit far apart by modern sport standards. This adds to the fun for some (points to self) and detracts for others.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Cool Hand Luke (5.11a)
By: GabeO When: Jul 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't have enough experience at Vedauwoo to feel I can grade this climb accurately, so I'll just add my two cents here, where you can take it or leave it, and it won't go into the MP grading algorithm. I cruised the thin-crack crux (which I'd put at low to mid-5.11). The upper OW crux nearly spit me off, but I'm not a great OW climber. So, I'd give the upper crux 10+/11-. Overall, I'd grade it low to mid-5.11.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Crystal Tower
By: GabeO When: Jun 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 6/12/12, both ropes on the tyrol looked in decent shape, but one was sagging a fair bit, so I tightened it up.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: GabeO When: Jun 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 6/12/12, both ropes on the tyrol looked in decent shape, but one was sagging a fair bit, so I tightened it up.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon
By: GabeO When: Jun 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: On 6/12/12, I tightened up the tyrolean to get to Primo as one of the ropes had gotten quite saggy.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : In the Beginning (V1)
By: GabeO When: Jun 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Felt harder than V1 to me, but I'm not really a boulderer, so my opinion ain't worth much.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Peer Review (5.12b)
By: GabeO When: Jun 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the only 5.12 I've ever been on anywhere that shut me down completely. I cruised it to the crux at the top of the headwall and then tried absolutely everything I could think of. Nothing even came close. Had to aid through to the anchor with my tail between my legs. I'm kinda short if that makes any difference.
GO
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : Face Full of Bush (5.10d)
By: GabeO When: Jun 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree with Mr Biscoop (above ^^^).
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Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : The Balcony : Nine Lives (5.11)
By: GabeO When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: BTW, once it cleans up a bit, I think this will be the best route on the wall.
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Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : The Balcony : Nine Lives (5.11)
By: GabeO When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Harder than both Jug-or-Naut and Tree Swing IMO. Perhaps no single move on Nine lives is quite as hard as the crux move on either of those two climbs, but Nine Lives is way more sustained.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Criminal Mischief (5.12a)
By: GabeO When: Apr 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: BTW, I found the jamming relatively not bad at all. The moves at the top were really crazy awkward and hard though.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Digital Readout (5.12b/c) : Photo
By: GabeO When: Mar 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep, I've got those on four fingers after getting on the route yesterday. Youch! LOL
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Excuse Station (5.11)
By: GabeO When: Mar 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're decent at thin hands, it's not bad. Not really #1s for most of it. After the first few feet it's 2.5 friends and tight #2s all the way until it pinches down at the very end. Way easier than No Excuse IMO.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : No Excuse (5.10+)
By: GabeO When: Mar 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe I did it wrong? No way is this any kind of 5.10. How the hell is 15 degree overhanging green camalots anything below 5.11? I Onsighted both, but this one felt a half a grade harder than Excuse Station to me.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Slot Machine (5.11)
By: GabeO When: Mar 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just an update for spring of 2012 - no change from previous ascent notes. Still starts small and gets up to #2 camalots for the last 35 feet or so. It actually pinches back down to 2.5 friends just before the roof (big #1 camalot). And then if you have the equivalent of a #2.5 camalot, it's nice to protect the roof at the top. As far as grades are concerned, I thought this was way easier than quarter of a man. Stellar route though. Hope it doesn't fall off.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Roadrunner (5.11-)
By: GabeO When: Mar 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree, it is totally do-able to lead as one pitch without bad rope drag or screwing the second. I've done so twice. Put your first piece in the roof as far out as you can reach from the stance, and put a 36" runner on it, and you're good. True, if your second falls, you'll have to lower them back to the ledge, but that would happen no matter what you did to protect that section.
Oh, and make sure to clip the bolt with a short draw as you turn the roof! This is key to keeping your rope fro... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Child Free Zone (aka Parkwa...
By: GabeO When: Mar 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know if the OW between Power And Lies and Rafiki has a name? I just did it, and it's fun!
GO
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