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Member Since: Feb 1, 2008
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Point Rank: # 5,549
Total Points: 65
Last Year: 13
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Gabe13 been climbing?










Contributions


All 47 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 15 | Posts 2 | Stars 24 | Ratings 1

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Turner's Flake (5.8)
By: Gabe13 When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: Most climbers will be happy to have doubles of 2-4" cams.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Gunklandia (5.7) : Photo
By: Gabe13 When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: How old is this picture? What with the slung nuts and figure 8 and all...


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Dropline Area : The Coffin (WI4+)
By: Gabe13 When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: There are several ways to gain the upper, yellow ice. L to R: The scrappy chimney mentioned above by nhclimber (protects well with small-medium cams and good fun), a thin ice groove (with shrubbery) up the front of the buttress, or a delicate tiptoe past small trees way over by Dracula. The upper ice is wide, several independent lines are possible.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 2. South Buttress : Wonder Wall : Three Saints (5.10-)
By: Gabe13 When: Sep 11, 2010

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Comments: As I remember it this is mostly fingers/ laybacky until you get to the roofy thing, then a short stretch of strenuous hands/off hands... But not really a big-gear offwidth.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof : Sleeping Beauty (5.10c)
By: Gabe13 When: Sep 11, 2010

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Comments: You will want a #3 or 4 Camalot for the first pitch.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : Sea of Holes (5.7)
By: Gabe13 When: Sep 11, 2010

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Comments: There is another nice variation (technically part of Pathfinder, but the only part worth doing i.m.o.): From the pitch 4 anchor, approach the overlap, aiming for an old-ish pin. Step up, clip a bolt over the lip, and crank one 5.9 move onto the slab. Teeter left, throw a medium tricam in a pocket, and you're golden to the rap anchor.

You may continue on a short 5.7 pitch to the final, huge overlap. Anyone ever actually done "Corbett's Crack"? It sure looks harder than 5.8...


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : Interloper (5.10c R)
By: Gabe13 When: Sep 11, 2010

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Comments: On the upper crux (undercling/reach over the swell)it is possible to get a nice medium nut in the flake you're reaching for- Which makes cranking the next move far less nerve-wracking.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : The Booklet (5.9)
By: Gabe13 When: Jun 9, 2010

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Comments: Lee, I think you were on route. At the top of the corner there's a good nut in a pocket (to the right of the totally suspect flake), then the slabby mantle above your gear before you clip the 2nd bolt. Then committing slab moves out left and a balance traverse up and right before you get any more gear.
I would agree with at least a PG if not R. Red tricam is critical to protect the last moves to the anchor.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 5. Children's Crusade Wall : Reign of Fire (5.9)
By: Gabe13 When: Jun 1, 2010

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Comments: I thought this was a Brad White route...

With double ropes (or lots of long runners)it's quite reasonable to link Revolt into Reign of Fire for one long, sweet pitch. I'd say it's not for the timid 5.9 leader though.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof : Short Order (5.9)
By: Gabe13 When: Jul 26, 2009

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Comments: After the last pin, on the upper ledge, it is possible to go left (slabby) or right (reachy). Once you gain the friable flakes and clip the first bolt, stepping left/ going straight up is a nice 5.10 variation.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof : Short Order (5.9)
By: Gabe13 When: Jun 21, 2009

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Comments: The original pitch one kind of sucks in my opinion- Add fun and variety by starting up the Avenger finger crack on the right side of the nose.

You can do the whole shebang with a 70m rope, Short Order wanders so doubles are nice.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 5. Children's Crusade Wall : Revolt of the Dike Brigade (5.11a)
By: Gabe13 When: Jun 21, 2009

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Comments: Guidebooks give this an R which it no longer deserves. Quite a bit harder if you're 5'8" or less though...

Between bolt #2 and #3, staying left of the fall line is very balancy, moving right of the fall line is more reachy and strenuous. Choose your own adventure!


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : The Booklet (5.9)
By: Gabe13 When: Jun 21, 2009

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Comments: Awesome pitch, file under "hidden in plain sight." Wish it was longer.

This might be PG, especially if you don't spot the "turnkey" nut pocket (to the right of the manky flake and below the mantle out of the corner). There is no pin anymore.

Most people will prefer to rap from the two-bolt station below the overlap.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : Waiting for Comeau (5.9)
By: Gabe13 When: Jun 18, 2009

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Comments: I tried Cash Flow yesterday John, and was saved from disaster by a heap of leaves and duff (and my cat-like reflexes). The 5.10 slab moves are 15 or so feet off the ground. For the less retarded I recommend placing the first nut under the roof, then downclimbing and firing the direct start.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Windfall (5.10a)
By: Gabe13 When: Jun 2, 2009

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Comments: It is possible to get a small cam on the left after pulling the roof. At the fragile flake, a pink tricam provides some peace of mind before you bust the mantle. I find that stepping left after the bolt makes the finish more entertaining.