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Member Since: Feb 1, 2008
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 5,211
Total Points: 64
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Areas are worth 15
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Where has Gabe13 been climbing?










Contributions


All (42) | Routes (5) | Areas | Photos | Comments (14) | Posts (2) | Stars (21) | Ratings
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

PF Flyer

WI3 (1)

Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500'

NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : ... : King Ravine (Mt. Adams)

Feb 1, 2014

Persona

5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13 (2)

Trad, 1 pitch, 60'

NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof

Sep 11, 2010

Tidal Wave

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R (2)

Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 270'

NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs

Sep 7, 2010

Ace of Spades

5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a (6)

Trad, 1 pitch, 100'

NH : Kancamagus Crags : ... : The Zonkers Wall

Jul 19, 2010

Repentance

WI5 M4-5 (21)

Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 350'

NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs

Oct 13, 2006

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Dropline Area : The Coffin (WI4+)
By: Gabe13 When: Feb 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: There are several ways to gain the upper, yellow ice. L to R: The scrappy chimney mentioned above by nhclimber (protects well with small-medium cams and good fun), a thin ice groove (with shrubbery) up the front of the buttress, or a delicate tiptoe past small trees way over by Dracula. The upper ice is wide, several independent lines are possible.


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs : Repentance (WI5 M4-5)
By: Gabe13 When: Feb 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The route beta could use an upgrade. It is possible to link the climb into two pitches, but the vast majority of parties do three. There are fixed belays on the left side of the chimney/ groove, out of the line of fire- not sure why one would want to belay off screws. Light rock rack is reasonable, but the #3 Camalot is pretty key to protect the chockstone, especially if you go left. The right-hand crack can be a reasonable way to finish if there are ice boogers in there.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 2. South Buttress : Wonder Wall : Three Saints (5.10-)
By: Gabe13 When: Sep 11, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: As I remember it this is mostly fingers/ laybacky until you get to the roofy thing, then a short stretch of strenuous hands/off hands... But not really a big-gear offwidth.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof : Sleeping Beauty (5.10c)
By: Gabe13 When: Sep 11, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: You will want a #3 or 4 Camalot for the first pitch.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : Sea of Holes (5.7)
By: Gabe13 When: Sep 11, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: There is another nice variation (technically part of Pathfinder, but the only part worth doing i.m.o.): From the pitch 4 anchor, approach the overlap, aiming for an old-ish pin. Step up, clip a bolt over the lip, and crank one 5.9 move onto the slab. Teeter left, throw a medium tricam in a pocket, and you're golden to the rap anchor.

You may continue on a short 5.7 pitch to the final, huge overlap. Anyone ever actually done "Corbett's Crack"? It sure looks harder than 5.8...


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : Interloper (5.10c R)
By: Gabe13 When: Sep 11, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: On the upper crux (undercling/reach over the swell)it is possible to get a nice medium nut in the flake you're reaching for- Which makes cranking the next move far less nerve-wracking.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : The Booklet (5.9)
By: Gabe13 When: Jun 9, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Lee, I think you were on route. At the top of the corner there's a good nut in a pocket (to the right of the totally suspect flake), then the slabby mantle above your gear before you clip the 2nd bolt. Then committing slab moves out left and a balance traverse up and right before you get any more gear.
I would agree with at least a PG if not R. Red tricam is critical to protect the last moves to the anchor.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 5. Children's Crusade Wall : Reign of Fire (5.9)
By: Gabe13 When: Jun 1, 2010

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Comments: I thought this was a Brad White route...

With double ropes (or lots of long runners)it's quite reasonable to link Revolt into Reign of Fire for one long, sweet pitch. I'd say it's not for the timid 5.9 leader though.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof : Short Order (5.9)
By: Gabe13 When: Jul 26, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: After the last pin, on the upper ledge, it is possible to go left (slabby) or right (reachy). Once you gain the friable flakes and clip the first bolt, stepping left/ going straight up is a nice 5.10 variation.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof : Short Order (5.9)
By: Gabe13 When: Jun 21, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The original pitch one kind of sucks in my opinion- Add fun and variety by starting up the Avenger finger crack on the right side of the nose.

You can do the whole shebang with a 70m rope, Short Order wanders so doubles are nice.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 5. Children's Crusade Wall : Revolt of the Dike Brigade (5.11a)
By: Gabe13 When: Jun 21, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Guidebooks give this an R which it no longer deserves. Quite a bit harder if you're 5'8" or less though...

Between bolt #2 and #3, staying left of the fall line is very balancy, moving right of the fall line is more reachy and strenuous. Choose your own adventure!


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : The Booklet (5.9)
By: Gabe13 When: Jun 21, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Awesome pitch, file under "hidden in plain sight." Wish it was longer.

This might be PG, especially if you don't spot the "turnkey" nut pocket (to the right of the manky flake and below the mantle out of the corner). There is no pin anymore.

Most people will prefer to rap from the two-bolt station below the overlap.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : Waiting for Comeau (5.9)
By: Gabe13 When: Jun 18, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I tried Cash Flow yesterday John, and was saved from disaster by a heap of leaves and duff (and my cat-like reflexes). The 5.10 slab moves are 15 or so feet off the ground. For the less retarded I recommend placing the first nut under the roof, then downclimbing and firing the direct start.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Windfall (5.10a)
By: Gabe13 When: Jun 2, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: It is possible to get a small cam on the left after pulling the roof. At the fragile flake, a pink tricam provides some peace of mind before you bust the mantle. I find that stepping left after the bolt makes the finish more entertaining.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
Question about new-ish route at WoodchuckEastern StatesGabe13Jul 19, 2010
re: Moving to Portland, MaineEastern StatesGabe13Feb 1, 2008

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Children's Crusade 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 5. Children's Crusade Wall

Hotter Than Hell 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

NH : Whitehorse Ledge : ... : Atlantis Area

Sleeping Beauty 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof

The Booklet 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs

Reign of Fire 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 5. Children's Crusade Wall

Cosmic Amazement 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 1. The Cosmic Crag

Waiting for Comeau 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs

Jacobs Ladder 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

NH : Whitehorse Ledge : ... : Atlantis Area

Ace of Spades 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

NH : Kancamagus Crags : ... : The Zonkers Wall

Inferno 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

NH : Whitehorse Ledge : ... : Atlantis Area

Atlantis 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

NH : Whitehorse Ledge : ... : Atlantis Area

Revolt of the Dike Brigade 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 5. Children's Crusade Wall

Cold Day in Hell 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

NH : Whitehorse Ledge : ... : Atlantis Area

Short Order 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof

Seventh Seal 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof

Ethereal Crack 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof

Last Tango 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof

Tidal Wave 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R

NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs

Interloper 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R

NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs

Persona 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof

PF Flyer WI3

NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : ... : King Ravine (Mt. Adams)

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