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Location: CO : Durango : Turtle Lake : Cliffs : 5.8 Dihedral (5.8)
By: Furthermore When: Mar 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This would be a 3 star route if it wasn't for the crappy finish traverse to the left.
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Location: CO : Durango : Turtle Lake : Cliffs : Green Arete (5.11b)
By: Furthermore When: Mar 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is not a 2 bolt anchor but a single bolt anchor with a chockstone and webbing. Good route.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: Furthermore When: Mar 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: With the right gear, this route can be kept to C2. Tri-cams and off set nuts were mandatory, I thought. I also found offset cams helpful but not mandatory.
The hardest part I thought was the last 10-15 feet to the intermediate pitch 3 anchors. I ran out of Tri-cams and was a bit sketched. With some tri-cams (brown or blue) that section would have been a non event.
The start of pitch 4 was a little tricky but not too bad. As for the roof, I just used tri-cams (pink and blue) to the pins ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : The Minstrel (5.11a)
By: Furthermore When: Dec 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Shares too much real estate with Sea Breeze and Au Natural.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Lover's Leap : Ye Olde Hysterical (5.10b)
By: Furthermore When: Jul 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The one bolt that can be used on the second pitch friction slab is sketchy. The pin above it isn't any better (I missed it on lead). If you were to take a fall, that bolt wouldn't hold and you would certainly deck on the ledge below.
Great climbing. Just needs to be cleaned up a bit.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Levada (5.8+)
By: Furthermore When: Jun 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a missing hanger on the 5th-6th bolt (I don't remember which one at the moment). Be prepared for a long mid section run-out.
Without that hanger on the bolt, the climb is now PG-13.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Harkonnen Castle : Grumpies (5.8+ PG13)
By: Furthermore When: Jun 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It has been brought to my attention, and I would like to clarify, I did NOT place the two bolts located on top of the 20 foot 5.3 slab. I am not sure when those were placed or who placed them.
As for the placement of those two bolts, I am not entirely sure why they were placed considering that the slab can be down-climbed or rappelled via a bush.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress : No Manners aka Hodat (5.9 PG13)
By: Furthermore When: May 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route doesn't warrant a bomb. Pro was decent and rock was good except for some pebbles at the top. The route will be a decent route with some traffic.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winterfest Wall : Pass The Tanning Butter (5.10)
By: Furthermore When: May 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a wasp nest between the 3nd and 4rd bolt as of 05/2012. It is within 5 inches of a mandatory hand hold. They didn't bother us, but then again the nest was small. It made the lead a bit spicier for me since I am scared sh(*less of wasps/bees.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winterfest Wall : Tanning Butter (5.11d)
By: Furthermore When: May 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a wasp nest between the 2nd and 3rd bolt as of 05/2012. It is within 5 inches of a mandatory hand hold. They didn't bother us, but then again the nest was small. It made the lead a bit spicier for me, since I am scared sh(*less of wasps/bees.
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Location: CO : Durango : X Rock : Elementary Wall : Elementary Crack (5.5)
By: Furthermore When: Apr 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This makes for a good beginner trad lead. Protects with medium to large cams.
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Location: CO : Durango : X Rock : Elementary Wall : Elementary Corner (5.6)
By: Furthermore When: Apr 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route can be led with a small set of nuts. Not recommended for a new leader.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Blanca Peak : Ormes Buttress (5.6)
By: Furthermore When: Jul 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rock in this route is pretty Janky. My partner and I went up two pitches and bailed due to the crappy rock. Just at the start of the second pitch he pulled down a 30 lb boulder that appeared to be solid. Furthermore, after looking at the pro that we had, the rock was loose around our pro!!! While walking off the route, we also inspected the route off of Ellingwood, and it didn't look good. After reading Roaches book for ascending that ridge on Ellingwood (the recommended descent route) ... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon
By: Furthermore When: Dec 25, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ice is real thin in Clear Creek canyon as of Dec 24. What happened to the cold temperatures?
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans
By: Furthermore When: Sep 9, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know of any routes from the Chicago Lake basin near Mt. Evans or how solid the rock might be??
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Dark Star (probably not Rig... (WI3+ M5-)
By: Furthermore When: Aug 24, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am thinking of climbing this sometime at the end of Sept into October. Does anyone know how the conditions are this time of year or how they are now?
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak : Kelso Ridge
By: Furthermore When: Aug 20, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this a few weekends ago. It took me 5 _ hours for both; I enjoyed very much watching the people, and the wonderful views. It was awesome! Did I mention 5 _ hours? I was in a real hurry too!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon
By: Furthermore When: Dec 17, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climb Coors Lite on 12/17/03. The falls are in, but are wet; there was some reasonably good mixed climbing on the second main step of the falls. Furthermore, I noticed some _ full jugs of antifreeze at the top of the second step stashed away, and was wondering if anyone knew or had a reason for those jugs being there.I don't think antifreeze should be used for any reason up there since it will just run into the river.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Maroon Bells : Northeast Ridge
By: Furthermore When: Dec 6, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't get me wrong, there is still lots of lose rocks! Wear a helmet.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Maroon Bells : Maroon Ridge (5.4)
By: Furthermore When: Dec 5, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route does not exceed class 4 by any means. Maybe if you get entirely off route you might encounter some low 5(s). When I did it I encountered one rappel, and looking back on the rappel it could have been backtracked and down climbed.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Boulder Canyon - Ice
By: Furthermore When: Feb 2, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: From seeing the ice conditions in the canyon a week apart, I will be surprised if the lower falls will even be there in 2 weeks. The upper falls are starting to melt out, and are very wet.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak : Kelso Ridge
By: Furthermore When: Jan 18, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I tried climbing this route on 1/18, but was turned around by wind. The ridge looked clear of snow and would have been an enjoyable climb except for that god damn wind.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Boulder Canyon - Ice
By: Furthermore When: Jan 9, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Upper Falls are developed. While the lower falls look thin, and not worthwhile. These last couple of warm days are not helping the conditions.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall
By: Furthermore When: Nov 24, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climbing, and very crowed. Obviously, this is a popular spot, so watch out for people above and below you. Have fun.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Clear Creek Canyon - Ice
By: Furthermore When: Nov 17, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I went rock climbing on 11-17 in Clear Creek and I was able to check out the ice climbing spots. What I saw was very little ice and that it was mostly wet rock.
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