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Member Since: Apr 4, 2008
Last Visit: 6 days ago
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Point Rank: # 4,755
Total Points: 83
Last Year: 12
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 451 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 28 | Posts 19 | Stars 360 | Ratings 38
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

The Pharaoh

5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a (2)

Trad, 1 pitch, 80'

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Upper Bulge Routes

Jun 16, 2014

Sea of Tranquility

5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 (3)

Trad, 5 pitches

CA : Southern Sierra : ... : The Warlock

Jun 18, 2010

The Titanic

5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b (1)

Trad, 1 pitch, 200'

CA : Southern Sierra : ... : The Warlock

Jun 18, 2010

Gomma Cocida

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 (3)

Trad, 1 pitch, 70'

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Left Hand of Darkness - Wes...

Jun 18, 2010

The Manly Dike

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 (2)

Trad, 2 pitches, 200'

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Diarrhea Dome - South Face

Jun 8, 2010

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Ahoy!

Ahoy!

General Climbing : Expired thread, 2011 editio... : Post

Feb 16, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Jailhouse Monkey (on dope) (5.12a)
By: fubar When: Oct 7, 2014

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Comments: I really enjoyed this route, but I was wondering about the crux--I'm a tall guy, and it was a lot easier to climb a bit right of the bolt line. There wasn't any chalk on the upper part of the route, so I'm not sure if this is where it's supposed to go...following the bolts up the incipient seam was way, way harder.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Sea of Tranquility (5.11c/d PG13)
By: fubar When: Oct 8, 2013

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Comments: Luke, kudos to you (or whoever replaced the anchors). The first anchors were truly nightmarish: a crappy bolt and a fixed head, I think? You can rap with double 60m ropes.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall : Paradise Lost (5.12- PG13)
By: fubar When: Jul 2, 2013

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Comments: With a TR, a couple of rests, and stepping on gear, this was no more more than 5.10+...

Awesome route. My favorite of the area.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Mayflower Direct (5.11+ PG13)
By: fubar When: Jul 2, 2013

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Comments: Did this after Paradise Lost and the moves seem just as hard or harder, though not for as long. Even with the right sequence, it's very powerful and weird movement (taxing on the legs as much as the fingers).


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Patricia Bowl : ... : High Expectations (5.10d)
By: fubar When: Jun 4, 2013

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Comments: The question is, where should it go? I busted some wild moves out around the arete on TR to gain the offwidth right of Boioioing, but they'd need a bolt or two to protect. The logical line follows the cracks, but there is a ton of loose crap stuffed in there--would take a crowbar and a hammer to clean. Was that the original condition of Boi-oi-oing, or was it pretty clean already? I'm willing to go either way, but don't know if the bolted line would be frowned upon when there's such a clear crac... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Gunslinger (5.12a/b)
By: fubar When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: The first pitch is like climbing on a slab covered in eggshells. At the crux I broke what seemed to be a key foothold; I can't imagine I was the first one to break an "important" hold, so it's definitely only getting harder as time goes by. The second pitch is a little better. The third pitch is awesome. The fourth pitch is okay. There is still loose rock on every pitch. With the exception of the third pitch, I don't think any of them would get a lot of stars on their own. The bolts ru... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Patricia Bowl
By: fubar When: Jan 6, 2013

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Comments: If you are doing the routes at the first cliff please be careful not to lower/rap off the end of your rope! This has happened to multiple parties up here with a 60m.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Patricia Bowl : ... : High Expectations (5.10d)
By: fubar When: Jan 6, 2013

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Comments: I top-roped the link-up from the top of the second pitch to the top of the pillar. There is an odd stray bolt about twenty feet down and around the anchors of Boioioing -- maybe it was going to be another anchor? I would like to know if this is someone's project because it will be really good once it's cleaned up, but it needs some cleaning. It's probably 12a.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : OZ Area : OZ : Emerald City : Yellow Brick Road (5.11c)
By: fubar When: Jan 4, 2013

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Comments: Also worth noting that this feels hard for the grade, in addition to having to bust 5.10+ moves above the hangerless bolt. Aside from the direct start holds (you could also step off a boulder) nothing felt too loose. It might have all broken off by now...but it's definitely harder than 5.11a. Very technical and elaborate movement with a distinct crux section.


Location: Damon Corso : Free Soloing : Photo
By: fubar When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: How did he do the aid section?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Olympic Dome : Black Diamond (5.12a)
By: fubar When: Feb 14, 2012

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Comments: The "extra" bolt is definitely not on the route, and clipping it would give you a lot of drag unless you put a runner on it, in which case you might as well not clip it in the first place, since you already have a bolt there. Unlike some big runouts in Queen Mountain, these bolts are in good condition. Probably only 12a for taller folks, but deceptively steep and incredibly sustained.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Suicide Horn Rock : Bighorn Dihedral (5.10b)
By: fubar When: Dec 5, 2011

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Comments: Felt hard for the grade, and would probably feel less scary if it got more traffic. Long runouts above black alien and purple c3 sized pro. Save time and energy for the descent, too. Randy--one and a half hours? You must have the approach dialed! It was at least 2 for us.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Gollum's Arch Rock : Facial Hair (5.11a R)
By: fubar When: Jul 10, 2011

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Comments: Make sure you find the good nut placement in the horizontal. It's hard to miss, but somehow I did and had to fight off a freak out above it. This would probably not be rated R in Eldo, but for Lumpy it deserves the grade.


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Cracked Canyon : Javelin (5.10+)
By: fubar When: May 22, 2011

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Comments: Great route, Royal! Bouldery start + sustained jamming = pump.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Air Jordan (5.12d)
By: fubar When: Mar 9, 2011

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Comments: I remember this being rated 12a in the guidebook, and feeling soft at that....


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Just Barely (5.11b PG13)
By: fubar When: Mar 1, 2011

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Comments: The line of bolts that angles right along the dyke and joins Just Barely at top is called Just Lovely. In my opinion, three stars and more quality than JB, which, as the description implies, is a one-move kind of deal.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Between Nothingness and Ete... (5.11a PG13)
By: fubar When: Mar 1, 2011

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Comments: Classic line. Perhaps a little easier if you have a big reach. Wonderfully thought-provoking moves high up. A 70m rope will reach the ground from the first anchors.

Also, a note of caution when hanging out near the base: this section of Dome is called the Asteroid Belt for good reason. Twice I have seen lethal rocks explode beside my pack--stay close to the wall and wear your helmet.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Room To Shroom Area : Room To Shroom (5.9)
By: fubar When: Dec 6, 2010

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Comments: A way of making this climb longer, though somewhat more runout, is to stay on the arete instead of traversing to the tree. Eventually you pass through a little roof and chimney move (5.8) and belay on top of the formation. Walk off climber's left.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Flying Fortress : No Self Respect (5.10d)
By: fubar When: Jun 18, 2010

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Comments: Doing these back-to-back ups the grade, I think. The guidebook says they're the two most "Yosemite-like" cracks in Josh. No wonder no one goes there.


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