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Friso Schlottau


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Mar 20, 2012
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Point Rank: # 2,646
Total Points: 202
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
5 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Friso Schlottau been climbing?










Contributions


All 71 | Routes 12 | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvements | Comments 22 | Posts 6 | Stars 16 | Ratings 3

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock : Funhouse Chimney (5.5)
By: Friso Schlottau When: Aug 5, 2009

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Comments: A variation to this climb: When you get roughly to the height of the anchor on "But For a Silver Bullet", step left, and finish up the highly featured offwidth. There are some loose blocks up there that look scary, so watch out where you stand. Fun exit, though. Maybe 5.7 if you stay off the really easy ledges?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Lamb's Slide (Easy Snow)
By: Friso Schlottau When: Jul 24, 2009

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Comments: Climbed Lamb's Slide today. Perfect snow conditions. Tiny bit of ice at the upper left. We had gear but never even pulled it out... Enjoy


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock : Blood Brothers (5.7)
By: Friso Schlottau When: Jul 14, 2009

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Comments: Odd line - still crumbly. Lots of good footholds crumbled while we climbed. Should be interesting to see how this cleans up.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Odessa Gorge : Flattop Mountain - N side : The Hourglass (WI3)
By: Friso Schlottau When: Jul 31, 2008

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Comments: The Hourglass is in terrific shape right now. Went up a few days ago - Snow from lake to top, last 20 ft were exposed sand / mud / rocks.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Tese (5.10)
By: Friso Schlottau When: Jul 21, 2008

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Comments: Great route! The extension makes this climb a great pitch - thanks to the FAs. The lower section (overhangs) has a few spots of interesting rock, though. I remember tapping a hand-hold and feeling my feet reverberate... (just after finishing the overhang).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Romancing the Stone (5.9)
By: Friso Schlottau When: Jul 21, 2008

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Comments: I have to agree with Jeremy. This climb (while a lot of fun) has a lot of missiles hanging, waiting to release. I'm not normally a fan of altering routes, but it would be nice to see some of the more questionable items removed, simply as a safety matter.

Fun climbing, though


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : East Face Gully (5.3)
By: Friso Schlottau When: Oct 25, 2007

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Comments: I did this route yesterday. We started 100 - 150 ft. right of the East Face. I stayed to the left of the obviously water-polished area for the first 2-3 pitches, and found enough good gear (3-4 decent pieces per pitch). I quite enjoyed this route, and found the belays to be consistently good / shady. Traversing left out of the gully was a bit odd b/c I couldn't see the best spot to 'get out' until I was a bit too high up. The corner that is furthest left is the one to aim for, and if you go too ... more >>


Location: CO : Volunteers Continue Search ...
By: Friso Schlottau When: Sep 8, 2006

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Comments: The thing that bugs me about this most is - how many people will actually help out the next time around when someone is really lost / hurt / etc.

'Wolf' was just seriously abused...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : The Young and the Rackless (5.9)
By: Friso Schlottau When: Aug 9, 2006

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Comments: VERY friendly beginner climb... probably a bit too friendly.
I think this route is 5.8... 98% of the climb is mellow, enjoyable (massively overbolted) climbing, with 2.5 moves of 5.8, maybe 5.8+ on it. I just hope this doesn't become the new standard of bolting - when a long draw can be clipped between two bolts you know something is off a little...

Great eye spying that line, though.

My rating comes about by comparing this line with
Mosquito Burrito - 5.8
Topless Etiquette - 5.8
Bastille ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Bitty Buttress (5.8+)
By: Friso Schlottau When: Aug 19, 2005

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Comments: One move wonder. The belay at the top of P2 is sweet, P3 has 4 cool moves leading up to a fun crux move. Won't do again.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Upstairs (5.8)
By: Friso Schlottau When: Jul 1, 2005

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Comments: Very short. The tree in the pictures makes the route look longer than it is. Still fun, though. There are only two short sections of true off-width, the rest of the way the crack has good holds inside, or it's hand/fist sized jamming.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso (5.6)
By: Friso Schlottau When: Jun 17, 2005

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Comments: I too was surprised when I found the flake missing on P1. However, I think that the quality of the route has actually gone up. That flake was always a bit of a weird spot to be avoided, making an otherwise great line a bit contrived...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: Friso Schlottau When: Jun 17, 2005

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Comments: We did a bunch of routes this morning, and I found that Blind Faith (10a variation) felt more secure, and maybe even easier than this '5.8+'. On the other hand, I like hand sized cracks. Maybe I was just out of it... I will say this - not a good first crack lead, in my opinion. Interesting gear, small fingery pockets, etc.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Odessa Gorge : Flattop Mountain - N side : The Hourglass (WI3)
By: Friso Schlottau When: Jul 5, 2004

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Comments: Went up on July 3rd. Lots of snow up there still, and a bit soft in spots when we climbed it. Topped out by 11:40, and had a great day. Very easy to find with the provided directions, and an amazing location.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek
By: Friso Schlottau When: May 8, 2003

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Comments: I asked about camping areas at Indian Creek on the climbingboulder.com mailing list, and thought I'd add the reply posts, since the intro to Indian Creek description has poor descriptions of the various places. First reply was from Steve "Crusher" Bartlett:

  • ***************1. A month ago the road was rough, but easy enough in my 4x4 truck. There wereseveral passenger car / low clearance vehicles parked out there, so with some care and patience this works for most vehicles. Drove it in a 2WD veh...
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Burning Inside (5.11b)
By: Friso Schlottau When: Apr 28, 2003

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Comments: The grade should be II, not V.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Generic Crack (5.9+)
By: Friso Schlottau When: Apr 1, 2002

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Comments: I will probably get flamed a bit for my comments, but I also hope this will help other first-timers in Indian Creek: This climb looked doable enough for us, but turned out to be a substantial undertaking. The length, and its hunger for #2 Camalot sized gear ended up forcing us to climb until we almost ran out of gear, set an anchor with the last 3 pieces, lower, take outher gear out, switch leads, go up again, etc. Climbing it that way trippled its length, and can NOT be recommended. Fun c... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Amaretto Corner (5.11)
By: Friso Schlottau When: Mar 31, 2002

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Comments: Terrific Route! The upper half of the first pitch (all we did) is a bit funky, with sliding fist jams - chicken wing things, but a great route. Overhang is weird, but easier than it looks.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Twin Cracks (5.9)
By: Friso Schlottau When: Mar 31, 2002

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Comments: Just got back from my second trip out there, and I HIGHLY recommend this as a first climb in the area. Twin Cracks is awsome, but NOTE: RIGHT HANGER IS LOOSE!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : The Minstrel (5.11a)
By: Friso Schlottau When: Jul 16, 2001

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Comments: I did this route a few months ago, and seemed like a fun climb - i.e., I TRd it, and wanted to come back and lead it. Went back last weekend, and tried it again, and I am convinced that a crimper toward the top has BROKEN OFF - after you move right from the vertical seam, above bolt #3, I think. There are good crimpers for both hands on the height of the 3rd bolt, and a long armsreach above, a new, blank piece of rock that seems to be where the next hold was last time. I'd be interested to... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Bosch Blanket Bingo (5.9)
By: Friso Schlottau When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: 5.8 or 5.10d, depending on whether you go around the bulge at mid-height, or go directly over it. First climb outside in 2001! Good to get out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Cussin' Crack (5.7)
By: Friso Schlottau When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Did this route on April 1st, 2001 with Dave Klein - the date seemed appropriate. This climb (pitch 2) definitely seemed... odd. First I felt sandbagged by the rating, but in retrospect, maybe its just a really weird climb, and 5.7 is as good a guess as any to what the rating should be. I followed that pitch, and had a good struggle with the slick rock in the v-slot... the climb is aptly named; lets leave it at that. Previously, I had considered this as my second trad lead, but now I am... more >>