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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole : The Price For Fire (5.13a)
By: freddy k When: Jun 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I suppose that my earlier comment was a little off, apres failing to redpoint this thing quickly. The crux, transitioning from the crack to the roof is really hard, perhaps enough so to warrant 13b? Aside from this move, getting to the chains is 12c.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole : The Price For Fire (5.13a)
By: freddy k When: Apr 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seems like a pumpy V6 from the crack to the jugs. Awesome route with some decent exposure. Seems like 13- in its entirety.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole : Missile (V5)
By: freddy k When: Jun 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am supposing that the crimper above the horrible sloping arete feature is off? Fun line nonetheless.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : The Great Escape (5.12c)
By: freddy k When: May 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best 12c in ccc? Oh yeh the fixed biners on the anchors are super worn, I replaced the one with the gate that had stopped closing, which might be superfluous considering that jumping from the anchors is an easier method of cleaning this route. In regards to the bolting of this route, the 5th bolt is hard to clip (at least with my sequence) I skipped it on redpoint burns risking a fall onto that large ledge, which is okay considering that the next hold is a bucket. If you do so, be careful.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon
By: freddy k When: May 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is Maple comparable to Rifle, I'm making an extended trip to Rifle and was thinking about spending a few 'rest' days here. Does anyone know how long it takes in trip time from Rifle to Maple?
Cheers
mw
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Primer (5.11a)
By: freddy k When: Apr 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The moves are alright, yet on an onsight attempt this route is dangerous. It's runout unnecessarily in many sections with bad fall potential onto ledges and such.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Arsenal : Pretty Hate Machine (5.12c)
By: freddy k When: Apr 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sick route, although you can knee scum thru the crux, which I know, might be lame considering that it's only a 12c.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rainy Day Rock : Your Brain on Rain (5.11d)
By: freddy k When: Mar 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yo officer friendly is way harder than this and is 11c. Great route though
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Nomad's Cave : Pizza Dick aka Mother Natu... (5.12c)
By: freddy k When: Mar 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: When compared against other 12c's in the canyon this one seems to be comparable! The crux start feels (as Jason said) to be a V5 boulder. Great route, pity that it isn't a little longer.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole : Helicopter (V5)
By: freddy k When: Feb 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Problem, I worked it for 4-5 sessions over a years span until I finally got it! It was pretty cool to develop the beta that I used granted the multitude of possible sequences. Use 2-3 pads if possible, one to protect the first sequence and then two pads for the thuggish throw to the finishing sloper.
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Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch
By: freddy k When: Jan 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: When will people stop removing draws by rappel (your not that strong, if you were than your would respect other climbers) left on routes by people projecting?
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Location: CO : Steamboat Springs : Butcher Knife : ? (5.11a)
By: freddy k When: Nov 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This one could be 10+ for all I know, if someone has the guidebook, then please correct me.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Centerfold (5.9+)
By: freddy k When: Nov 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hate to repeat what has already been said, but this route goes extremely well on gear. I used Camalots #0.5, 2-#1s, #3, and a #4, and a bunch of medium wires.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Halle-Bop (5.10c)
By: freddy k When: Oct 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route if taken directly (no deviation left at 3rd bolt) feels like 11a/b, sans a tough sloper sequence. Yet moving left at 3rd bolt makes it 10+ in my opinion.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Overpass (5.11c)
By: freddy k When: Oct 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: After doing this route and pulling my rope to set up a rap, I had my rope caught in the crack at the third bolt and had to scramble down 4th class ledge to get another rope! Be careful.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Merlin (5.11d)
By: freddy k When: Oct 18, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Slopey layback to a hidden finger bucket, short lived, yet fun.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Stone Cold Moderate (5.7)
By: freddy k When: Oct 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I feel ashamed to admit this but i left a purple Metolius TCU #0 almost halfway up. I put a runner on it, and when the rope became taut, it dragged the cam sideways into a wedged position. I spent much time trying to get it out, so it's pretty stuck. If anyone has the skill to get it out and feels like sparing me $50, then my email is mwhitema@du.edu
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Cracker Jack (5.9)
By: freddy k When: Oct 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route goes well on gear, save a #4 (#3 kinda works) for the crack next to the second bolt.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Nomad's Cave : Predator (5.12c)
By: freddy k When: Oct 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Someone stole my draws from this route, although the route itself is a chipped chosspile, it's pretty lame to have people stealing draws in Clear Creek.
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