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Member Since: Jul 23, 2002
Last Visit: Sep 1, 2014
Contact Fred Vanden Bergh


Point Rank: # 778
Total Points: 822
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Fred Vanden Bergh been climbing?










Fred Vanden Bergh

 
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Contributions


All 188 | Routes 78 | Areas 1 | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 22 | Posts 2 | Stars 83 | Ratings 1

Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : ... : Photo
By: Fred Vanden Bergh When: Jul 8, 2011

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Comments: Cool shot. This is right at the first crux of the first part of the route, on the 8a(+) portion.


Location: International : Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : ... : Artemis (5.11a)
By: Fred Vanden Bergh When: Jul 8, 2011

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Comments: The loose block has been there for at least a year+; it had a conspicuous 'X' on it last season. Not sure if that means its more solid than it appears, but considering the amount of traffic this route sees it at least suggests its not on the brink of coming out completely. Still, as it is relatively easy to reach past it, its obviously best to avoid it.


Location: International : Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : ... : ?Name (Proud Control) (5.10b)
By: Fred Vanden Bergh When: Jul 8, 2011

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Comments: Agreed re: the bolting ... the last bolt is simply in the wrong place on this route. The swinging fall off the last moves to the anchors (which are some of the more awkward on the route) wouldn't be pleasant. Its too bad, as this would be another good warm-up route otherwise.


Location: International : Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : ... : Photo
By: Fred Vanden Bergh When: May 5, 2011

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Comments: Ouch! I think I prefer the forearm bar rest here...


Location: International : Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : Moon Hill
By: Fred Vanden Bergh When: Sep 3, 2010

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Comments: Despite the confusing sign in the photo, climbing isn't forbidden at Moon Hill at the moment (check if you can before you go, I suppose this can always change). There is a 10RMB (about $1.50) charge to enter the Moon Hill park, but there's a pretty easy way around it, just ask a climber once you get to Yangshuo. There is, however, a pending toll-gate opening (rumored date is Oct 1) that could charge considerably more - 80RMB - just to drive/bike into the larger scenic area where quite a few of Y... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Air Mail (5.10a PG13)
By: Fred Vanden Bergh When: Mar 3, 2005

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Comments: Did this yesterday, and mostly agree with the description. I wouldn't say its [horrifying], but I would say you should be very comfortable at the grade before leading this. I found the gear adequate for the first half, less so for the upper section. If you're comfortable on this kind of climb, the moves are a lot of fun and its a good climb to get your head in shape.

More relevant: there is a webbing (tat?) belay anchor looped over a flake on the ledge at the top of the dihedral that you can be... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: Fred Vanden Bergh When: Oct 3, 2004

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Comments: Found gear at base of C'est La Vie - Sat., Oct 2. See Lost and Found section (link on home page) for details.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Little Blob : Two Minute Warning (5.11c/d)
By: Fred Vanden Bergh When: Jan 24, 2004

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Comments: I [definitely] agree, the bolts are a wee bit close together higher up on the climb. Seems unlikely a 5.12 climber would be scared at that point. When I clipped the bolt at the beginning of the upper crux, the one below was above my waist. (!)

As to the first bolt: certainly reasonable enough, Joe, and it doesn't take a very long stick to clip it. I do think the first bolt even a couple/few feet lower would be clippable sans stick from the ground and still provide the necessary pro to do the fi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Little Blob : Two Minute Warning (5.11c/d)
By: Fred Vanden Bergh When: Jan 22, 2004

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Comments: Oops. The last paragraph should read "I found the two routes to the RIGHT (Lost And Found & Take Five) ..."


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Terminal Velocity (5.11b/c)
By: Fred Vanden Bergh When: Dec 22, 2003

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Comments: Very fun route, and I agree its tricky to pro - I'd give it an S rating. Considerably easier than Foxtrot, a bit easier than Parallels, so I'm going with 11b...whatever...its fun. The hardest single crux protected pretty well for me, but the section above, up to the midway ledge, was harder for me to fiddle in good pro, so I ran it out. A fall would have been baaad.

I'll agree with a previous post: I also felt the pump from the first section while doing the upper half, but it is easier (10) and... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Syke's Sickle (5.9+)
By: Fred Vanden Bergh When: Jul 21, 2003

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Comments: My partner and I were stormed off of Syke's Sickle, on Spearhead in RMNP, Saturday, July 19 ... a mere 50 feet or so from the top! I had just completed the roof crux, and was near the belay, when the sky opened up with the full wrath of [insert Diety of choice here]! You know what I mean if you were in the area...wow. Lightning, hail, torrential rain...needless to say, we bailed ASAP. In so doing, I was lowered from a number 1 (red) Camalot, right before the belay at the end of pitch 7 (the crux... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Sunset Boulevard (5.11b)
By: Fred Vanden Bergh When: Jun 12, 2003

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Comments: There is now a beefy, two bolt 'sport anchor' that allows a true sport climbing experience, right here in Eldo. (The Action Committee for Eldo web site reveals that this was applied for and approved in the Fall of 2002). This anchor makes this a really fun, quick sport route to do before work. A 60m rope was plenty long for the TR/rap off - the application on the ACE site states that the anchor is "97 feet above the ground".


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Cozyhang (5.7)
By: Fred Vanden Bergh When: Apr 17, 2003

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Comments: I agree with the last poster: tricky bulge on the first pitch. I'd also like to suggest that trusting the fixed pins here (and elsewhere on this route for that matter) is not such a great idea. My brother and I did this last weekend, I led every pitch, and didn't clip a single pin...many are have cracked eyes, and all are manky. Doesn't matter too much, though, as there is plenty of gear placements wherever needed.

The last pitch's roof is definitely a sandbag at "new school" 5.7 -- but, if you... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Jules Verne (5.11b/c R)
By: Fred Vanden Bergh When: Apr 15, 2003

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Comments: I have not done this route, but it interests me as well. I would highly recommend the film by Peter Mortimer 'Scary Faces' for anyone interested in Jules Verne - well, anyone interested in Boulder climbing for that matter. It is really a great look at the history of this route, as well as some of the great names in Eldo climbing. Its funny, entertaining, and it gives a good idea of what the route is all about. Great stuff!

Good luck when you get on it! Post back, and let us know how it went!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Fred Vanden Bergh When: Dec 16, 2002

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Comments: Did this yesterday (Dec 15th -- gotta love climbing in Colorado!). Amazing route, in the top 10 on my list. We also did the long version, combining P1 and 2. But, I fear I made the first 9-ish move around the corner a bit harder to protect. The perfect slot mentioned above for a stopper *was* perfect, but in hand-setting my stopper, a good-sized chunk of the side of the slot chipped off. A smaller stopper will fit now, but not quite as bomber, unfortunately, because what's left is pretty flaring... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Jolt Cola (5.12-)
By: Fred Vanden Bergh When: Oct 21, 2002

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Comments: I just want to echo how great this route is. It's rare to find a route that is fun, quality, and has you thinking from the very first move to the very last...and both variations of Jolt Cola offer exactly that. The 12a variation has harder single moves, but the 11c path (to the right) is more sustained. Great climbing. One option is to lead the 11c variation, then set up a TR on the 12a on the rap if you don't feel like leading the 12. Awesome route! (Oh, and the ratings feel accurate to me, if ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Fred Vanden Bergh When: Aug 1, 2002

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Comments: I guess I'll chime in with my opinion, for what its worth. I agree with George, Guy and Charles. Climbing -- especially classic, trad routes, but in general -- is more than just the movement over the rock. It is the entire experience; dangerous, beautiful, scary, challenging, rewarding. I think the rock/route should be allowed to evolve naturally. There is a place for pulling off loose rock (I enjoy climbing at Rifle), but I don't think this is it.

I did this route about 2 weeks ago w... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: Fred Vanden Bergh When: Jul 25, 2002

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Comments: My 2_ here--

GEAR: I found either a black or blue alien slotted in nicely above the pin (which I would call so-so), to protect the crux move; though, depending on when you fell, you could still land on the ledge below.

BETA: For me, using any of the holds on the left wall (below/including the Desdichado holds) didn't work out, despite how nice and big they feel. I just couldn't rock my body back into the dihedral-- I am tall, so this may explain the difference here. My success on thi... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Defenseless Betty (5.11d)
By: Fred Vanden Bergh When: Jul 25, 2002

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Comments: There's plenty of thought provoking climbing on this route. A strenuous crux low down through the overhang is deceptively pumpy, then the crux high is very tricky. It took me several tries to riddle it out...and, afterwards, comparing notes with a "local", I don't think the sequence I used is very popular! In any case, this route was incredibly fun, probably the most enjoyable of the 11's (all good) on the wall (though, there was some talk of it being rated 12a in the new?!? book, soon to come o... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : South Face (5.9+)
By: Fred Vanden Bergh When: Jul 25, 2002

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Comments: I don't know the name of this variation, but there is a fun and interesting 10c roof/dihedral about half way down the ledge on the first pitch, that leads to anchors above Boot Lead & Close To The Edge. These anchors provide a way to rap down and, better still, TR those 2 excellent (and hard!) routes. Also, the face to the right of this variation is another interesting option. The Falcon Guide suggest 10d for this, but it felt harder to me (esp. comparing it to the 10c), more like 11b at least. ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Boot Lead (5.11d X)
By: Fred Vanden Bergh When: Jul 25, 2002

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Comments: (I'm the AC above...forgot to entire my name.)

Glad to hear the agreement re: Close To The Edge...it certainly felt like hard 12 to me...heck, it may as well have been 5.14. :-) If I remember correctly, the best hold on the route sits near the 2nd bolt, and the 3rd definitely seems like it would be the harder clip of the two...of course, I didn't lead it so... Also, the only fixed gear in Boot Lead now (again, if memory serves) is a fairly abused, small hex, well above the first (and harder) cr... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Boot Lead (5.11d X)
By: Fred Vanden Bergh When: Jul 23, 2002

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Comments: Close To The Edge, the bolted line immediately to the left of this route, is rated a mere letter grade harder (12 a/b), but...in my humble opinion...is a whole 'nuther ball o' wax. I was able to toprope, sans falls (baaaarely), Boot Lead, but was completely shut down on Close To The Edge. Moving off the good feet into the blank section seemed essentially free from the burdens of any hand holds whatsoever...Very, very balancy stuff, both of these climbs, but at least Boot Lead has a hold or two h... more >>