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Member Since: Oct 23, 2008
Last Visit: Apr 12, 2014
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Point Rank: # 765
Total Points: 892
Last Year: 50
Last 30 Days: 0
34 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 460 | Routes 77 | Areas 2 | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 24 | Posts 13 | Stars 319 | Ratings 21

Contributed Comments

 

Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City
By: ---- When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: Does this wall catch any day time shade during the middle of the summer? If so what time? I'd like to climb here during early August, but not in full sun. Thanks.



Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City : Orange Juice (5.12c)
By: ---- When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: Does this route catch any day time shade during the middle of the summer? If so what time? I'd like to try to do it during early August, but I don't want to tangle with it in full sun. Thanks.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : East Side Boulders : Photo
By: ---- When: Feb 15, 2013

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Comments: Big Bully V6


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : South Side Crags : Area 51 : The Project (5.13c)
By: ---- When: Apr 3, 2012

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Comments: The fifth bolt is a dogging bolt. It would be foolish to try to clip it on the go. It is wise to wear knee pads or thick pants for the sharp double knee bar rest. If there was one 13c that was "must do" at the NRG, this is probably it. Climbs like a gym route with steep slopers and dynamic moves.


Location: WV : Coopers Rock State Forest : Tilted Tree : Tilted Tree Corridor : Pocket Problem (V6)
By: ---- When: May 29, 2011

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Comments: Great problem if you like tweaky pockets. A right drop knee at the start can be helpful. This one feels quite hard for the grade, but I don't want to be the one roaming Coopers and complaining about all the grades so I'll leave it at V6. This sparsely featured face is hard to resist.


Location: WV : Coopers Rock State Forest : Roadside : Green Block : Green Block Test Piece (V5)
By: ---- When: May 29, 2011

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Comments: This problem is definitely a step above the rest of the classic V5s in the forest when it comes to difficulty. It requires an odd blend of balance, finger strength and agressive attitude for the mini-lunge to the finishing jug. A long wingspan is a major asset for this one.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North Gym : Apogee Pending (5.14a)
By: ---- When: Mar 17, 2011

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Comments: Why do you call it Apogee Pending? Is there an extension in the works or something? Looks like really nice rock. Way to go.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North Gym : Apogee Pending (5.14a) : Photo
By: ---- When: Mar 17, 2011

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Comments: Very nice. Is this route really that steep or is it one of those photo angle tricks that makes a vert 5.10 look like a roof?


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall : Doritos (5.12c)
By: ---- When: Feb 18, 2011

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Comments: Tara, add a photo of this one. I'm sure you've got a good one! Nice job on the route.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (1) Koala Rock : ... : Photo
By: ---- When: Feb 18, 2011

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Comments: That is one good looking knob. Thanks for posting this.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (f) Cocaine Gully : Bongo Fury (5.13a)
By: ---- When: Mar 16, 2010

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Comments: Yeah. I knew that Frizzel bolted the route. I just don't know why a special move got named after him.

I have also heard that there has been some hold breakage. It seems like this is probably the reason you are forced to make a move off of a non-existent right hand pinch on the slab.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S...
By: ---- When: Jun 5, 2009

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Comments: There are about a hundred swallow nests on the far right of the Christian Brothers Wall. It is quite a sight. Just imagine every roof from Rude Boys to Smooth Boy covered in nests. Doesn't look like too much fun doing those routes right now.


Location: Monomaniac : Air Time : Photo
By: ---- When: Jun 5, 2009

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Comments: That's a great picture. Bobbie looks really funny. You guys...


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit
By: ---- When: May 3, 2009

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Comments: couple of questions about Donners Pass:

Is all the snow melted by the end of May? Is everything climbable at this time?

Are crowds ever a problem here? Is it very often that you have to wait in line for a popular climb? Would memorial day weekend be a bad time to go?

Thanks for any info you have.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (d) Aggro Gully : Aggro Monkey (5.13b)
By: ---- When: Jan 28, 2009

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Comments: I was on the route this past Fall. I remember one suspect bolt. It is more of a dogging bolt than anything. It comes right below what I consider to be the redpoint crux. It was handy for me to clip the bolt and yard through it the first time to get a top rope up. I don't know which bolt it is, but it is about 2/3 of the way up the wall and it is pretty obvious. I just wouldn't want to trust the bolt to take too many whippers. Skipping the bolt and taking a whipper results in a clean fall.... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Photo
By: ---- When: Jan 24, 2009

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Comments: I hear that doing the highline in a Gorilla suit is easily two grades harder than doing it in a Santa suit.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (zz) Upper Gorge
By: ---- When: Dec 16, 2008

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Comments: Are there any access issues with any of the cliffs in the upper gorge? Watts mentions in his guidebook that the Red Columns and the Ivory Coast are closed to climbing due to liability concerns of the property owners. I know this book was written a long time ago and I also know that people have climbed in these areas in recent years. What is the latest? Anyone know anything? Am I going to get shot at if I try to climb here?


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (c) Shipwreck Wall : Shipwreck Wall - East Face : More Sandy than Kevin (5.10d)
By: ---- When: Dec 14, 2008

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Comments: This route is amazingly good: sustained five ten movement with footholds exactly where you would want them. It almost seems like you're climbing a route that was set to flow smoothly. This could potentially be a replacement warm up for the magic light/overboard routine. I've just never had the guts to break out of the mould and change things up.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (c) Shipwreck Wall : Shipwreck Wall - East Face : Blue Light Special (5.11a)
By: ---- When: Dec 14, 2008

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Comments: This is one of those routes that can feel really easy if you're strong and can make long reaches. If you're short the crux will probably feel annoying hard for the grade. This route, Toxic and License to Bolt are 11s that I have seen shorter climbers get frustrated on.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall : Overboard (5.11c)
By: ---- When: Dec 14, 2008

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Comments: Similar to the other routes on the morning glory wall with extensions the crux comes immediately after the first set of anchors. A right heel maneuver can prove to be really usefel for making the first few moves after the anchors.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall : Cool Ranch Flavor (5.11a/b)
By: ---- When: Dec 14, 2008

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Comments: The extension to cool ranch is really quite enjoyable. The rock isn't great (yet) but the moves are really varied and enjoyable. From the first set of anchors fight through a perplexing sequence to gain the shallow stemming box. The first bolt after the first set of anchors may be hard to clip depending on how you approach the moves. Some "hidden" feet may help you pull the moves after the first set of anchors. The rest of the climb is continuously technical featuring some long reaches. Th... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S... : Boy Prophet (5.12b PG13)
By: ---- When: Nov 23, 2008

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Comments: I was really perplexed when I first looked at this route. The route traverses between the first and second bolt but all of the chalk is well above the second bolt. Don't let this keep you from doing the route. The traverse moves are pretty easy and you'll probably end up clipping the second draw at left ankle height. Bolt placement seems a little odd, but it is nothing to fret about.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (1) Koala Rock : The Knob (5.10a)
By: ---- When: Oct 23, 2008

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Comments: I would be really excited if you posted a picture of the knob. If it weren't such a long hike I'd go see it myself. thanks.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Chain Reaction (5.12c) : Photo
By: ---- When: Oct 23, 2008

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Comments: that's Ryan Palo of Portland


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