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Member Since: Feb 15, 2007
Last Visit: May 5, 2014
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Point Rank: # 2,925
Total Points: 167
Last Year: 11
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 433 | Routes 10 | Areas | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 12 | Posts 392 | Stars 8 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : Unknown/(Bolt Dependence?) (5.11a/b)
By: Fred AmRhein When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: This may be the route called "Bolt Dependence" listed in the Poudre Canyon Guide, 2nd Edition, by Luebben, et. al., #4 on the North Face in the Guide?

Here's the description from that guide and it seems to fit:

"Start to the right of a licheny crack system on a nice yellow panel. Climb flat ledges and cool laybacks to the ledge. 11b"


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Adamantasaurus Flacciphalli... (5.11a)
By: Fred AmRhein When: Jan 9, 2013

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Comments: Bummer about the large jug.

I'd definitely re-emphasize the use of a stick clip for the first moves, even if the jug is (partly?) still there.

It's admittedly still crumbly; I was on it a few weeks ago and had pocket edges continuing to give a bit here and there.

Like neighboring routes on Bartuni AF PhD has its challenges also. Next time I'm on it I'll work it over again and try to clean it up some more. It's definitely a stiff climb at 11a and ratings are by consensus so only tim... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Time Share (5.12a)
By: Fred AmRhein When: Nov 24, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for the info Chad; I guess my research on it via Greg wasn't quite accurate. Apologies for the errors. by the way, if you get a chance, add Return from the Ultimate Mormon Experience down at the lower pond to the list; awesome route and one of yours too as I recall?

Fred


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Neptune (5.10a)
By: Fred AmRhein When: Nov 24, 2012

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Comments: I'll second the thanks for the added top bolt on the final move in the dihedral though I usually do the arete finish.

Also, just an FYI, I added the first weld shut bolt some years ago. The actual "first" bolt on the route is now the second.

Fred


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Overbearing Underminer (5.10b/c)
By: Fred AmRhein When: Nov 24, 2012

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Comments: Double Exposure begins way left of KGB and goes up along the large crack for a bit then heads out under the large and obvious roof with bolts located fairly closely beneath that obvious roof.

Overbearing Underminer on the other hand begins down at essentially the same area but below the start of DE; stepping out almost immediately right onto the lower face directly to the left of KGB and continuing off up and to the right and toward the upper moves of it. My route comes very close to ... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Time Share (5.12a)
By: Fred AmRhein When: Apr 14, 2012

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Comments: I was just adding some background and wanted to make sure that if somebody read the drilling/comfortizing assertions by Peter that my view and actions were at least provided for balance.

Also, the name "Time Share" seemed appropriate because the line that I chose to configure shared some of Greg and Chad's line to some extent. The name was meant as a respectful way to address this. The actual name came up because of a hand/foot match move on the "bear" scar that I used about 1/3 of the way up.
... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : In Seam (5.10c)
By: Fred AmRhein When: Apr 6, 2012

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Comments: Roman,

Sorry to hear of your dismay at the overabundance of bolts on the route. As the FA on this one and a few others nearby, I'll explain.

If you are referring to the bolts near the crack at the beginning; I bolted the crack for the simple reason that The Pond is a sport climbing area and I just followed the ethic. There's probably no clear cut rationale here that will make die-hard gearheads happy, but it is a sport area and I respect that.

I debated whether to bolt the crack he... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Time Share (5.12a)
By: Fred AmRhein When: Apr 5, 2012

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Comments: Peter,

My friend, as the FA on this route, at least after reconfiguring it from what Chad and Greg had done years previous to my efforts, I have to correct some of your commentary.

For my part and those who aided me in putting this up over the days and weeks we worked on it, I cleaned off buckets of loose rock, creaky flakes, and short-timer pockets. I believe that Greg and Chad had done about as much if not more cleaning themselves. The first portion of the route is indeed good solid stuff an... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Photo
By: Fred AmRhein When: Apr 4, 2012

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Comments: This route is God Save The Ta Ta's, an oft sighted bumper sticker, if done straight up not in the crack considered 5.8'ish.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE)
By: Fred AmRhein When: Feb 18, 2011

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Comments: Folks,

I thought I'd help straighten out some things about Lower Gaan/Devil's East in terms of some of the history of the climbing on that side.

In the late 90's, I was involved with several forays onto that side and we began to develop climbs over there. We climbed and began to develop both gear and non-gear (sport) routes.

In one instance, Greg Opland and I climbed a crack to top out on a tower. We placed a bolt or two on the top if I recall and then rapped a bit to put in a sport anchor o... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Tam O'Shanter
By: Fred AmRhein When: May 18, 2007

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Comments: Most people don't realize that the access to the Homestead is across State Trust Land and across several private parcels. The parking is also on a private piece of land. Several Homestead crags are on private land also. With continued publicizing of the crag and its great climbing there will no doubt be issues. Probably sooner than we think. (Cinco de Homestead, etc., . . . ) See my notes on that site's comments.

As for Tam O'Shanter, you should head out there to check it out for yourselves whe... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead
By: Fred AmRhein When: May 18, 2007

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Comments: The road access to the Homestead traverses across State Trust Land and at least 3 large privately held parcels of land. Several gates will be encountered and at the present time there are no "No Trespassing" signs posted.

The end of the road where most people park is private property. Also, several developed crags are on private property. Again, at this time there are no "No Trespassing" signs posted. However, this could change quickly so please show all of the gates, properties, and livestock... more >>