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Member Since: Nov 19, 2009
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 4,489
Total Points: 88
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1508 | Routes | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvments | Comments 28 | Posts 1421 | Stars 34 | Ratings 13
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : ... : Photo
By: FrankPS When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: I hope she is wearing sunscreen.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Nuts and Bolts (5.7)
By: FrankPS When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: I took the 5.7 friction version, but started from the bolted anchor to the right of the chimney. Downclimbed back to the bolted anchor, as I wasn't "prepared" to lead the rest of the route. The one time I climbed the chimney, I looked up at that bolt, which is close to 40 feet away. Didn't see any opportunities for pro, so I rapped from the bolted anchor.

Good to know there is pro ten feet above the chimney. Still, I think the bolt is approximately 40 feet above the chimney belay.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Shadow (5.7 R)
By: FrankPS When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: About five or six years ago, my partner fell before clipping the first bolt from about 15-18 feet up. Didn't have a cam in the slot before the bolt. Hit the ledge on the way down and broke his ankle. Although he had successfully led Shadow before, he peeled off this time.

I've also seen a guy slide down on lead, keep his footing when hitting the ledge and jump to the ground, sticking the landing! It was scary, but nicely done. No injury.

I like to pre-clip the first bolt on a lower from Desper... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Nuts and Bolts (5.7)
By: FrankPS When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: The bolt after the first pitch roof (at the top of the chimney), is more like 40 feet away, with no pro in between.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Garden Wall : Doggie Style (5.9)
By: FrankPS When: Dec 29, 2013

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Comments: This is a good climb on solid rock. This past summer, we watched a heli-rescue off of Doggie Style from nearby P-Wall. Apparently, a guy fell just before clipping the third bolt, which resulted in a broken ankle.

This climb has a bolted anchor with chains and clips for easy rappelling.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Wish Sandwich (5.8+)
By: FrankPS When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: Per J. Alber's comments above, I added similar comments to the "Free and Easy" page. I started below the hand crack for the first pitch of F&E with a 60m rope. Had to simul about 20 feet to the anchor. A 70 would have done the trick for P1 of F&E. Haven't done this route, though.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Free and Easy (5.7)
By: FrankPS When: Oct 26, 2013

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Comments: Good climb. If you start from the bottom of the buttress, where there is a crack about 10 feet up, the first pitch is a full 70 meters. You can start higher up, but for full value, start at the bottom.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : Piton Pooper (5.7)
By: FrankPS When: Sep 12, 2013

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Comments: And I'd add that DD, JC, PP and URA is a great linkup. Wonderful climb.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Darwin Canyon : Photo
By: FrankPS When: Apr 30, 2013

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Comments: Great photo, Frank!


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Darrington : Green Giant Buttress : Dreamer (5.9) : Photo
By: FrankPS When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: These are obviously dinosaur eggs.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Darwin Canyon
By: FrankPS When: Jul 24, 2012

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Comments: The hike from North Lake to Lamarck Col actually gains about 3700 feet (then you descend into the canyon). The views from the col are worth it. Head toward the left side of the col/saddle to go over at the correct spot. The col has a sign so you know you are at the right spot.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Impacted Stool Crack (5.9)
By: FrankPS When: May 28, 2012

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Comments: The "new" bolts above the crack have been removed. The one just above the crack is still there. Noticed this today as I top-roped the climb.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Imaginary Voyage (5.9-)
By: FrankPS When: May 19, 2012

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Comments: The first pitch, after the initial dihedral, is a long and sustained wide crack. Stoutness!

Descent info: From the bolts at the summit, rap (less than 100'- not sure how far) to the big ledge where there are two bolts (20-30 feet right of the final wide crack)and a manky fixed rope. Next, rap approximately 110' - 115' to a two-bolt anchor which is somewhat climber's right from the last anchor at the ledge. You go over a couple of edges/ledges before you can see it. We only had a 60 meter rope,... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - Southeast Face : Buissonier (5.7)
By: FrankPS When: Feb 20, 2012

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Comments: The rap off this climb isn't bad. Down and to the climber's right from the belay ledge. Try to stay on the slab at the start of the rap and not fall into the abyss/chasm directly below the rap slings.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Rusty's Cave (5.8)
By: FrankPS When: Feb 2, 2012

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Comments: This climb features about one or two moves of difficulty - getting up the crack before the traverse. The traverse is heady, but easy. A decent route.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Photo (Copy)
By: FrankPS When: Jan 25, 2012

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Comments: Which movie is this, Liam?


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Dark Side of the Moon (5.8 PG13)
By: FrankPS When: Jan 10, 2012

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Comments: The second pitch is dirty and runout. Take some nuts to augment the one bolt on the second pitch. There are rap rings on the second pitch anchor. I would only do this second pitch again as a way to get to the top of P-Wall to access other climbs.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : Astroman (5.11c) : Photo
By: FrankPS When: Jan 1, 2012

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Comments: Every day for 15 years? I want proof of that dubious claim! :)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Rock Garden Valley : Rock Garden Valley - Left S... : ... : Photo
By: FrankPS When: Dec 4, 2011

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Comments: I really like the description, Sean. I sooo believe you about not being spooked - at all!


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Oh My! (5.7 PG13)
By: FrankPS When: Sep 23, 2011

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Comments: Except for the last 20 feet or so, this is crumbly rock. Not very aesthetic.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Bear Creek Spire : North Arete (5.8)
By: FrankPS When: Sep 8, 2011

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Comments: This description says it's six pitches (then describes how it joins with the Northeast Ridge).

That is somewhat misleading, if you believe it is only six pitches. It will take 10 or 11 pitches to get to the top (if you're pitching it out, which we did), where the descent begins. A fairly long day.

Excellent rock and climbing.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Letterman (5.6)
By: FrankPS When: Sep 6, 2011

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Comments: When doing the left variation, there is no pro for the first 15-20 feet off the P-Crack anchor, til you get in the corner. OK route, the paint and lichen result in some slick spots.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley
By: FrankPS When: Jul 10, 2011

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Comments: That's thousands of "climber-days," not climbing days. Which is different. If that clarification is necessary!


Location: CA : High Sierra : Lone Pine Peak : Milktoast Chimney (5.8)
By: FrankPS When: Jun 30, 2011

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Comments: Bryan - nice beta photo. I'm fairly sure the creek that runs down that whole drainage beneath the south face of LPP is the "North Fork of Tuttle Creek." The south fork is the one that runs in the next drainage (south) near Mt. Langley.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Stirrup Rock : Stirrup Rock - North Face : New Toy (5.6)
By: FrankPS When: Feb 11, 2011

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Comments: I'd have to agree with the last poster - fun climb, clean rock, good pro.


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