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Member Since: Mar 20, 2004
Last Visit: Jan 27, 2009
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Point Rank: # 1,693
Total Points: 106
Last Year: 16
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Areas are worth 15
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Frank Sanders

 
Contributions

Contributions


All (59) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos (18) | Comments (6) | Posts (11) | Stars (14) | Ratings (9)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location  Useful To  Date

Dancing With The Devils After Dark (FA)

5.8 A3-4 R

Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III

WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces

1 person

Nov 14, 2007

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location  Great Image  Date
"They're off and Running". Trevor "Energizer Bunny" Bowman, on the 1st Ascent of "Double Edge Blade" leads the longest pitch that I've ever seen; 80 meters on a 70 Meter rope. A Great Gear Anchor, is up there, Somewhere... "Hey, Frank, could You move up a bit...more..."<br />SW Face of Devils Tower, WY.October 2008. Photo courtesy of www.devilstowerlodge.com

"They're off and Running". Trevor "Energizer Bunny" Bowman, on the 1st Ascent of "Double Edge Blade" leads the longest pitch that I've ever seen; 80 meters on a 70 Meter

WY : Devil's Tower : ... : Double-Edged Blade (5.6 A3)

Oct 28, 2008

Trevor "The Wizard" Bowman, skillfully navigating the double roof on the 1st pitch of Double Edge Blade, SW Face, Devils Tower, WY. October, 2008. Photo by www.devilstowerlodge.com

Trevor "The Wizard" Bowman, skillfully navigating the double roof on the 1st pitch of Double Edge Blade, SW Face, Devils Tower, WY. October, 2008. Photo by www.devilstowerlodge.com

WY : Devil's Tower : ... : Double-Edged Blade (5.6 A3)

Oct 28, 2008

Trevor Bowman, on the 1st Ascent, experiencing "approach-avoidance" as he nears the roof on "Double Edge Blade"; SW Face of Devils Tower, WY. October, 2008. Photo compliments of www.devilstowerclimbing.com

Trevor Bowman, on the 1st Ascent, experiencing "approach-avoidance" as he nears the roof on "Double Edge Blade"; SW Face of Devils Tower, WY. October, 2008. Photo compliments of ww

WY : Devil's Tower : ... : Double-Edged Blade (5.6 A3)

Oct 28, 2008

Nate ChossMonkey, getting ready to "Rock & Roll" on the First Ascent of DANCING WITH THE DEVIL AFTER DARK (A3+/A4, 5.8) on the Steep South West Face of Devils Tower, Wyoming. We started at 7 pm, one warm June evening and climbed through the night and into the next day, retuning to the ground at 5 pm. Great Route, Great Rock, Tremendous Tower, Powerful Partner !!<br />

Nate ChossMonkey, getting ready to "Rock & Roll" on the First Ascent of DANCING WITH THE DEVIL AFTER DARK (A3+/A4, 5.8) on the Steep South West Face of Devils Tower, Wyoming. We started at 7

WY : Devil's Tower : ... : Dancing With The Devils Aft... (5.8 A3-4 R)

Nov 14, 2007

Lindsey Weissner (CupcakeTrad) Enjoying the Excellent Hand Jams on the 1st Pitch of Bon Homme (Horning Variation).

Lindsey Weissner (CupcakeTrad) Enjoying the Excellent Hand Jams on the 1st Pitch of Bon Homme (Horning Variation).

WY : Devil's Tower : ... : Bon Homme Variation (5.8)

Nov 8, 2007

Frank Sanders Leading the 1st LONG Pitch of Bon Hamme (Horning Variation)...Simply a Beautiful Climb !!!

Frank Sanders Leading the 1st LONG Pitch of Bon Hamme (Horning Variation)...Simply a Beautiful Climb !!!

WY : Devil's Tower : ... : Bon Homme Variation (5.8)

1 person

Nov 8, 2007

We Ran Out of Daylight, But NOT OUT Of Flashlight Batteries...and Patrick K. NEVER ran out of Smiles !!

We Ran Out of Daylight, But NOT OUT Of Flashlight Batteries...and Patrick K. NEVER ran out of Smiles !!

WY : Devil's Tower : ... : Blotter is my Spotter (5.7 A4-)

Nov 8, 2007

NOW THAT'S AN AID PITCH !!! Looking down the long 2nd pitch of Blotter Is My Spotter. Most Excellent Aid !!!

NOW THAT'S AN AID PITCH !!! Looking down the long 2nd pitch of Blotter Is My Spotter. Most Excellent Aid !!!

WY : Devil's Tower : ... : Blotter is my Spotter (5.7 A4-)

3 people

Nov 8, 2007

Frank Sanders leading, Patrick Kingsbury belaying on the 2nd pitch of Blotter Is My Spotter. The View is Most Excellent.

Frank Sanders leading, Patrick Kingsbury belaying on the 2nd pitch of Blotter Is My Spotter. The View is Most Excellent.

WY : Devil's Tower : ... : Blotter is my Spotter (5.7 A4-)

Nov 8, 2007

Patrick Kingsbury and Jessica Kilroy at the start of the 3rd pitch of Blotter Is My Spotter, an Excellent aid route on the West Face of Devils Tower.

Patrick Kingsbury and Jessica Kilroy at the start of the 3rd pitch of Blotter Is My Spotter, an Excellent aid route on the West Face of Devils Tower.

WY : Devil's Tower : ... : Blotter is my Spotter (5.7 A4-)

Nov 8, 2007

Dawn Glanc, Hanging Out at the Belay On SOLER Route. This Photo Well Shows the Joy and Purity of This Line. There is NOT a Single Move That is Short of Excellent on Both Pitches!!! It was First Climbed in 1951, on AID by Tony Soler et.al.It was the First Aid Climb (Other Than the Stake Ladder of the 1890's) on the Tower. In 1959 Layton Kor and Ray Jaquot Made it all Go Free, so it, Ironically, Became the First Aid Line to Get Free Climbed on the Tower. Today, it is Still a Great Climb. I've Been up it More Than 100 Times,and...I Can Hardly Wait to Share it With a Partner, Again!!!! Photo compliments of Frank Sanders www.devilstowerclimbing.com

Dawn Glanc, Hanging Out at the Belay On SOLER Route. This Photo Well Shows the Joy and Purity of This Line. There is NOT a Single Move That is Short of Excellent on Both Pitches!!! It was First Climbe

WY : Devil's Tower : ... : Soler (5.9-)

Mar 22, 2006

Jim Lynch, from New York, takes on the Stellar and Continuous Hand Jam Crack of Assembly Line.Although the Route is Rated at 5.9+, the Truth is That if You Have Your Hand Jam Act Together it is More Like 5.7...If You Don't Have the Hand Jam Act Well in Hand, its More Like 5.11...So the 5.9+ is a Compromise. This is a 5 Star Route on a 3 Star Scale. Be Certain That This One Leads Your Tic List For Devils Tower. Photo compliments of Frank Sanders. www.devilstowerclimbing.com

Jim Lynch, from New York, takes on the Stellar and Continuous Hand Jam Crack of Assembly Line.Although the Route is Rated at 5.9+, the Truth is That if You Have Your Hand Jam Act Together it is More L

WY : Devil's Tower : ... : Assembly Line (5.9)

Mar 22, 2006

A 5 Star Beauty...The route that is !!! Psycho Turb. is a Super Stemmer !!!!

A 5 Star Beauty...The route that is !!! Psycho Turb. is a Super Stemmer !!!!

WY : Devil's Tower : ... : Psychic Turbulance (5.11b)

1 person

Mar 20, 2004

Greg Schaffer stems El Matador, at the age of 63, Climbing with Guide John Walker of Devils Tower Lodge!! Greg DID NOT rap after this pitch, but pursued the climb all the way to the Tower Top !!

Greg Schaffer stems El Matador, at the age of 63, Climbing with Guide John Walker of Devils Tower Lodge!! Greg DID NOT rap after this pitch, but pursued the climb all the way to the Tower Top !!

WY : Devil's Tower : ... : El Matador (5.10d)

4 people

Mar 20, 2004

Jim & Pat came all the way from  the East Coast just to stem the Matador !!! They got what they came for and MORE!!!

Jim & Pat came all the way from the East Coast just to stem the Matador !!! They got what they came for and MORE!!!

WY : Devil's Tower : ... : El Matador (5.10d)

2 people

Mar 20, 2004

The big picture on Fritz's Fantasy.

The big picture on Fritz's Fantasy.

WY : Devil's Tower : ... : Fritz's Fantasy (5.10b)

Mar 20, 2004

Ranger Bill gropes through yet another fantasy.

Ranger Bill gropes through yet another fantasy.

WY : Devil's Tower : ... : Fritz's Fantasy (5.10b)

Mar 20, 2004

A rare face climb on Devils Tower, FRITZ'S FANTASY, provides both excellent protection and challenging climbing.

A rare face climb on Devils Tower, FRITZ'S FANTASY, provides both excellent protection and challenging climbing.

WY : Devil's Tower : ... : Fritz's Fantasy (5.10b)

Mar 20, 2004

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Double-Edged Blade (5.6 A3)
By: Frank Sanders When: Oct 28, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Trevor did a Long and Skillful Lead on this one !! He left out the Best part; inevitably, it was a #1 Beak that was the last piece under the roof, followed by a poor, shallow, downward pointing Bugaboo just over the roof !! Yeah, Trevor !!! The climb is Fun and Exhilarating !!Its location on the SW face makes it warm most times of the year, and its more than steep enough to be "snow-free" all year 'round !! I Highly Recommend this route, (and any of those near it; i.e. ... more >>


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Best Crack in Minnesota (5.9)
By: Frank Sanders When: Nov 15, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Really !!! Don't even bother with this one....THERE ARE SOOO MANY BETTER CLIMBS TO CLIMB ON THIS TOWER !!!!


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Bon Homme Variation (5.8)
By: Frank Sanders When: Nov 15, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Surely one of the CLASSIC 5.8's on this Tower!!!

I highly endorse doing the 2nd pitch in the Right Hand Crack. It might be a bit harder than the Left Hand Alternative, but it is all solid rock, straight forward and very protectable.

The Left Alternative might be technically easier, but it is awkward, with some loose rock and the protection leaves something to be desired in numerous spots.

USER BEWARE on the left hand crack.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : El Cracko Diablo (5.8)
By: Frank Sanders When: Nov 15, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Of the 3 CLASSIC 5.8's on this Tower,(Bon Hamme, Extended Weissner, Patent Pending, McCarthy North 1st Pitch, etc), this one, of Pat Padden & Rod Johnson's creation, is Surely the Best !!! Going out to climb it Right Now, as a Matter of Fact !!


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Soler Eclipse (5.11b)
By: Frank Sanders When: Nov 15, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: The first pitch is Marvelous !!! It is full of "Thoughtfull" and "Figure it Out" moves,solid holds,and Fat Bolts. in ALL of the Right Places.Yes 5.11b but Full-on PG!!!

The 2nd Pitch, though technically much easier, 5.10a, is a Huge Contrast. It is quite "run out" and You need to depend on flakes that "bend" and threaten to pull off. There are only 2-3 bolts on the whole pitch and they are of lesser quality. 5.10a, Yes, but 5.10a R!!!
USER BEWARE!!!!

Soooo, just do the 1st pitch,enj... more >>


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Soler (5.9-)
By: Frank Sanders When: Mar 22, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Probably sounds idiotic, but I'm certain that I've climbed this route more than 100 times...and I'm still looking for any excuse to climb it once again !!! Its got it all; great locks, great pro and a stellar hanging belay right in the middle !!! The first free ascent of the route went to Layton Kor and Ray Jaquot in 1959. What a Plum they picked !!!!


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