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Member Since: Jun 5, 2001
Last Visit: Jan 17, 2005
Contact Frank Stock


Point Rank: # 5,995
Total Points: 58
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Frank Stock been climbing?










Contributions


All 36 | Routes 1 | Areas 1 | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 33 | Posts | Stars 1 | Ratings
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Kor Route

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R (4)

Trad, Grade II

UT : Moab Area : ... : Monster Tower

Apr 28, 2002

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Monster Tower

UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky

May 6, 2002

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Resolution Arete (5.10 A1)
By: Frank Stock When: Mar 22, 2004

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Comments: Follow Georges link above for the best topo out there.

Good route. Definately more committing than anything else in Red Rocks that I've done. If you have read climbingboulder, this is not a date climb.

Cheers,Frank


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Ministry (5.11a)
By: Frank Stock When: Apr 29, 2003

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Comments: Errata 2: Should read TWO each purple through yellow Aliens, not three.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall
By: Frank Stock When: Feb 3, 2003

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Comments: Fixed rope? You have to be kidding. I have managed get up there with a black lab and a husky on several occasions. I'd be surprised if a bolt and fixed rope stayed around to long up there. I would suspect that if you are uncomfortable scrambling up the notch, that you aren't going to get much climbing done at Dylan wall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Arete (5.8)
By: Frank Stock When: Sep 23, 2002

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Comments: Good stuff. The first 30 feet or so has the crux and only takes a small wire and alien or similar for pro, and it is SLIPPERY. Once you are through the slippery stuff, the climbing is steep, juggy and really fun. Combined with the 5.7 finish to the West Buttress, it is a great outing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Italian Arete (5.9 R)
By: Frank Stock When: Sep 16, 2002

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Comments: What a great line-especially the first half. Steep, nice moves, really great stuff.

A few comments. You would need a lot of slings to run this as one long pitch.I put a sling on every piece, but I still had some drag belaying between the roofs. If I guy could find a way to keep the rope from rolling into the finger crack through the roof it would help, but still, it would be tough. We broke it in two pitches shown in the Rossiter guide and it was fine.

Also, add pitch two to the list of ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
By: Frank Stock When: Sep 9, 2002

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Comments: The best tower I have done for climbing-Pitch 4 is as good as it gets.

Concerning the start(s), having done both. The 5.11 is butt hard, with difficult moves protected by a #4 camalot in an up-side-down flare (otherwise, leave the #4 on the ground). The moves are not in character with the rest of the climbing (bouldery and facey), other than being right underneith the route. The 5.8 is interesting, airy, and relatively safe but some may say you didn't climb "Primrose Dihedrals"... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : D7 (5.11)
By: Frank Stock When: Aug 19, 2002

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Comments: We did to table ledge and then crossed over to FF Saturday. Leading about 30 feet below Crossover Ledge I knocked a big block off of the left side of the crack. I pretty much was climbing the crack and using the features on the right when whatever I brushed on broke loose, missing my partner by three feet and stirring up pretty much everyone on the face. Scary. The first pitch block is loose, but I couldn't pull it out.

As for the two or three (depending on how you link em) pitches to cross... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Forrest Finish (5.10)
By: Frank Stock When: Aug 19, 2002

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Comments: Forget if it is the Yellow Wall proper or not, it is a spectacular finish. Steep, clean, and relentless. Hard for me to call it 5.10, but then what do I know about grades at that altitude.

The only exception I'd take to the above, is that there is no ow. When the crack diverges from the Yellow Wall, the section right above seemed to be about 5 feet of full on, body in the crack OW, or face climbing of at least a harder grade. Also, there was a second spot above that where I was full on kn... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Better than Love (5.8 R)
By: Frank Stock When: Jul 25, 2002

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Comments: We too linked up the bottom of BTL with the top half of the Love route and it was a good combo, on par with Culp. The line was pretty straight forward, although it probably helped having topo's from both guide books along.

The only runnout climbing was the 5.7 face climbing, trending left from the crack about 10 feet off the belay above the pillar pitch. Small RPs and Aliens made the runnout pretty mellow, although you are making the 5.7 moves above gear that isn't inspiring, but the climbing... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Cathedral Wall : Tourist Tragedy (5.9)
By: Frank Stock When: Jun 3, 2002

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Comments: An ok route on pretty good rock by park standards. Not much for exposure, but ok climbing and a good way to get the head in the game after a winter off. This is not nearly as run out as Cathedral Wall proper, but not nearly as steep either. We did this June 1 anticipating the wall would be dry and sunny, and the approach would be easy. It was.

Combining pitches with a 60m is a cakewalk, and makes for a really short alpine day.

Pitch 1 traverses a bit, and above is a tree so don't link it u... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a)
By: Frank Stock When: May 1, 2002

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Comments: Great climb and summit, and the summit register is entertaining reading.

I don't have much to offer in the route description but I can give great rack beta. With one #4 big bro (combined with the bolt, pin and chock stones) this was pretty protected, and if a person could beg, steal or borrow three #4's, you could sew pitch one up up. The rest of the rack would be fine with a set of camalots from #3 down, with doubles in 1, .75, .5 and .4, and a handful of medium stoppers. ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Monitor and Merrimac Buttes : Without A Net (5.8 X)
By: Frank Stock When: May 1, 2002

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Comments: If you like the first pitch of Jah Man, or think Epinephrine in Red Rocks is a great climb, then this is the one for you. The belay at the top of pitch one is one of the coolest belays ever.

Yah, it doesn't protect really well (or really at all except belays), but that's part of the experience. The pins indicated in both the Burns and Bjornstad guides do not exist.

The climbing is straight forward-after the first 20 feet you pretty much should have the movement figured out. The summit is a... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Fine Jade (5.11a)
By: Frank Stock When: Apr 8, 2002

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Comments: In the for what its worth catagory:

With 2 - 200 foot ropes, you can get down in two raps. The first rap takes you to the nice belay just below the crux with 5 feet to spare, and the second rap puts you on the ground with perhaps 40 feet to spare. I wish I had paid more attention to the midpoint going up, because I think you probably could get off the top with 1 200 footer, but I wouldn't want to bet my life on it.

Very nice stuff, fun summit. Agree with all of the above, the traverse pitch... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Jah Man (5.10)
By: Frank Stock When: Apr 8, 2002

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Comments: We just climbed this yesterday. If someone forced me to put an order on classic desert towers, this probably is only second to Moses and just ahead of the North Face and Fine Jade. It just was really nice climbing on a great day.

I kept track of what we used after reviewing this page last week for beta. A comfortable rack was 4 #.75 (5 would not be out of line) and 3 #1 camalots and 2 of .4, .5 and #2 camalots. One piece smaller is nice in the chimney, and one piece large... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff
By: Frank Stock When: Mar 13, 2002

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Comments: It actually is "Blue Gamma", after a type of grass, not a little old lady.

The cliff offers a lot of nice cracks. First timers at IC may appreciate that the lines are shorter, requiring less endurance and smaller racks. Still good stuff though.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Cathedral Wall : Dalke Route (5.9 R)
By: Frank Stock When: Feb 20, 2002

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Comments: Great rock, minimal gear, and pretty easy to get to when the rest of the park has snow in early season is the good news. The bad news is we could figure out where the heck we were supposed to be as we got up near the top, and judging from the tat collection we weren't the first to experience that problem.

I believe Rossitor calls the cruxy stuff "5.9 or harder" and it sure is. After climbing this you will appreciate and take notice some of the routes put up by Dalke in the Boulder area.

I ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Ypsilon Mountain : Blitzen Ridge (5.4)
By: Frank Stock When: Feb 4, 2002

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Comments: Yup, definitely not a date climb. For that matter, one might best think of the Blitzen Ridge as a good solo and leave it at that. The approach and decent make this a high overhead climb for the amount of technical rock.

Buyer beware. This is a full day with a long and technical descent, and you need to be moving to beat the afternoon storms as you will be the highest thing on the big flat summit. While it is only 5.4 and has really solid rock, the huge approach, technical descent and exposu... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Saber : Kor Route (5.9)
By: Frank Stock When: Jan 16, 2002

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Comments: This route has some great climbing and some serious chunk pitches. Definitely not to be taken lightly as it is a long route with some confusion stuff up top.

The pitch description above is what I remember. Through pitch 5 (excluding the beginning pitches) the rock is quality and the climbing is fun. The nebulous pitches are just that. Pick and go. I didn't see anything formal looking that I would have been inspired to rap off of, but we were headed for the top anyway.

The last pitches t... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Saber : Southwest Corner (5.10a)
By: Frank Stock When: Jan 15, 2002

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Comments: This is a way good route, with a lot of good climbing at 5.9 grade. The crux feels plenty harder than 10a, pretty sustained and steep. It protects well when it gets hard, but don't fall the first 20 feet or so in the crux pitch. Anyone who is capable of climbing this route should feel comfortable simulclimbing up to the starting ledge. If you did the start with three pitches of belayed climbing, then you are in for a really long day (and you are probably should consider doing the Kor Route wh... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Icarus (5.6 R)
By: Frank Stock When: Jan 14, 2002

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Comments: The only thought is for the 5.6 climber, getting off the top is a bit exciting. I know my wife was non to thrilled downclimbing to the notch, but it was survivable. Great route though.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Wunsch's Dihedral (5.11)
By: Frank Stock When: Jan 14, 2002

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Comments: Agree with above - what a route. Everything about it is good. For those without the superhuman fingers (me) I thought the 5.10 start was good. Great positions, each pitch is worthwhile, the summit is very nice.

For the descent, we did get off just fine with one rope into the gully on the back side. I don't know if I'll bring a second rope next time or not - the gully was full of poison ivy, but I really like not having to bring two ropes.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Zowie : South Face (5.8+)
By: Frank Stock When: Jan 14, 2002

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Comments: This is a good route, but it may not be a great alternative for some of the flock of novice climbers that the Petit. The dihedral pitch and the last pitch are both good rock and fun climbing. The first couple pitches and some of the later ones are pretty much chunks and it would be easy to dislodge a rock and seriously screw yourself, your partner or your rope up, and unlike the Petit, there may not be anyone around to help. Nothing that someone with experience can't deal with, but not a good... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: Frank Stock When: Jan 14, 2002

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Comments: Loose rock, 3:00 am start if you want to be first, lightning by noon - definately not a date climb. As for 10 stars, to each their own I guess. I think the first is great.

Frank


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