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Location: CA : High Sierra : Temple Crag : Dark Star (5.10c) : Photo
By: fossana When: 1 day ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow Patrick, this is an amazing photo!
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Temple Crag : Temple, Galey, Sill Travers... (5.7+)
By: fossana When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure who decides these things. Bottom line is that it's a fun link-up esp if you go all the way to T-bolt to make up for the chossy Galey section.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Cloudripper : Photo
By: fossana When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: thank you
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fum : East Face South Side (5.6 R)
By: fossana When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree with Tony on the sandbaggery. I have no problems soloing most 5.6 Flatirons routes in my approach shoes. Glad to have climbing shoes on this one, maybe the hollow holds played a part. It gets a 5.7(X) rating in Jason Haas' book.
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Location: CO : Desert Towers Show, Denver
By: fossana When: Apr 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great presentation for fans of desert towers and climbing history. If you haven't seen it, go.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a)
By: fossana When: Apr 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I went first on the last standard rap with what I later learned from my partner was a slightly less than 70m rope. To avoid the last 6ft+ drop I scrambled onto a narrow ledge (climber's left), which looked like it might go. From here you can downclimb or swing the rope over and easily rap the remainder as it is uphill from the normal rope fall line.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : ... : Photo
By: fossana When: Mar 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, this was useful beta.
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers
By: fossana When: Mar 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just received my Winds topo maps from Beartooth Publishing. The south one south one (1:50,000) covers the Cirque. It's nicer than the Earthwalk Press one. Shipping fees are nominal from Beartooth directly.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Black Widow Hollow (5.9)
By: fossana When: Nov 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Used red and yellow ball nuts several times. We broke up P2 into 2 pitches, belaying at a sloping ledge just before the lieback and above the main chimney section (better photo ops and rope management IMO).
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Sunset Slab (5.7)
By: fossana When: Nov 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route goes climber's right of the descent route, the top of which is marked by the low point in the upper First Creek Slabs ramp system and also to the right by a distinctive bright red "chunky" (versus smooth) topped pillar. On the approach I came in from a red ramp system just below Romper Room (very dark varnished wall). The route starts around the corner from the Romper Room area. Photo of the start of the chimney pitch shared with Rising Moon:
mountainproject.com/images/... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Satan's Slab (5.8 R)
By: fossana When: Nov 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I soloed the upper section from the Omen. The bush on P5 is there, though more accurately described as a diminutive fir tree, which lies fairly flat against the rock. It's right on the arete.
Also, not sure why you would skip the summit when you've covered that much ground and it really doesn't take that much extra time.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pseudo Sidetrack (5.4 R)
By: fossana When: Nov 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: @ Jeffeos
I onsight soloed the route with the (licheny) direct finish. The rock is pretty solid by Eldo standards, there is minimal polish, and I didn't find the routefinding difficult (I do a lot of alpine soloing but was new to Eldo at the time). It is definitely exposed in spots especially on the lower ramp. I would say Swanson's Arete (minus getting up to it), Recon, and Breezy all feel mellower from an exposure perspective.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall
By: fossana When: Oct 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We came in from the trail behind Eldo post yesterday and found the MP directions to be very confusing.
Amended instructions:
Get onto Fowler trail^. Take Fowler to the Goshawk Ridge trail intersection. Continue onto Goshawk. Just past where it turns from gravel road to dirt singletrack, go right on the signed climber's trail. Take the trail to the railroad tracks. Select a way to get past the railroad tunnel. After the tunnel, look on the right side of the tracks for a faint trail that dip... more >>
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Location: CO : Significant and Joyous Mom...
By: fossana When: Sep 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a 2009 video of Doug Scott here if you are concerned that you will have difficulties with his accent (I personally didn't find it a problem):
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Location: CO : Significant and Joyous Mom...
By: fossana When: Sep 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: @ Neptune:
www.neptunemountaineering.com/events.aspx
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Merriam Peak : The Flying Buttress (5.11)
By: fossana When: Sep 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the page and great pics, Luke.
-Michelle
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Location: CO : Flagstaff TRASH BASH - This...
By: fossana When: Sep 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Official announcement & details:
flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpress.com/news-events/
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Let's Jet (5.10d)
By: fossana When: Sep 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found both the moves off the ramp and after the second ramp to be reachy (I'm 5'6"). Levin's guide calls this 10b, but I found it way more desperate than Blows Against the Empire (10d in the book).
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Location: CO : Flagstaff TRASH BASH - This...
By: fossana When: Sep 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This has been pushed out a week due to weather.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Rock : Steck-Salathe (5.10-)
By: fossana When: Aug 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: thanks, Shawn! The lighting wasn't so great, but I for one wasn't complaining about being mostly in the shade mid-summer.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Photo
By: fossana When: Aug 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, this is one of the best Hulk photos I've seen.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead : The Central Rib (5.7)
By: fossana When: Aug 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did the N Ridge of Spearhead linkup, then continued onto Pagoda and Long's. Highly recommend at least continuing on to the W Ridge of Pagoda.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : North Ridge (5.6)
By: fossana When: Aug 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I linked this up with the N. Ridge of Chiefshead, W. Ridge of Pagoda, and Long's, which made for a great day. Thanks to Buzz for the Chiefshead linkup recommendation.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Darwin : Evolution Traverse (5.9)
By: fossana When: Aug 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Croft's beta is a bit thin and is way off about Huxley.
Having done the route, I put a more detailed description on summitpost. See the bottom of the page for additional trip reports. If you have a TR you want included PM me.
I never encountered a chossy 5.9 downclimb off of Darwin. Just beyond the summit block there was a chossy 5.6 downclimb then some of relatively secure (not exposed) chimney downclimbing as you follow the ridge. Cl... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Quandary Peak : Inwood Arete (5.4 R)
By: fossana When: Aug 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, this route has choss, but I don't think it's that sketchy if you've got alpine (or even Eldo) experience with routefinding. Fun, short alpine outing if you're in the area. I personally wouldn't want to haul a rope up it, since it's mostly class 2-4. Agree the direct start is more like 5.6.
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