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Forest on the first ascent


Member Since: May 12, 2003
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 6,064
Total Points: 58
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 158 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 33 | Posts 73 | Stars 26 | Ratings 22
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Georges Peach (5.9)
By: Forest Hill When: Apr 22, 2009

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Comments: Give me a break. This climb does not suck. It's certainly out character with other routes on the rock, and it's not going to be on anybody's ticklist, but it's a perfectly okay mixed route and there's nothing to be gained by removing it. It wasn't put up inappropriately, nor are the bolts next to trad placements or anything else of the sort.

Leave it alone.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Parole (5.10+)
By: Forest Hill When: Apr 5, 2009

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Comments: There's a bomber #1 camelot placement about 3" right of the hangerless bolt.

The hangerless bolts got that way after I mentioned the placement to Ben (having onsighted it with all gear.) He told me he'd take the bolt out. Looks like he just took the hanger off instead. :-(

There's also room for decent pro probably in the green to yellow alien range under the roof, but the placement next to the bolt is much much better.

This was my first 5.10 trad lead many years ago, I think. Just top-r... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Cell Block Eight (5.8)
By: Forest Hill When: Apr 5, 2009

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Comments: To agree with the posts above, this is not a sport route. You'll be very unhappy without at least a set of nuts and a couple medium cams.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead
By: Forest Hill When: Apr 5, 2009

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Comments: The "description" and "getting there" links are dead


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Parallel Ventures (5.10b)
By: Forest Hill When: Mar 3, 2009

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Comments: Who can account for taste, I guess. Plus there is the prestige of my 4382nd ascent, like you mentioned.

I think it's really fun climbing bolted appropriately. But then it's also near the limit of what I can lead right now, so that probably makes it more enjoyable for me than for you supermen.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : Hidden Jewels
By: Forest Hill When: Mar 3, 2009

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Comments: There are only three climbs up above, so of course that's not worth the approach. There are a number of climbs down below that are quite fun, tho. This is an especially great crag for an early morning in the summer.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Parallel Ventures (5.10b)
By: Forest Hill When: Feb 20, 2009

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Comments: Yeah, I gotta agree with Jimbo here.

Up high on this route, if you go too far right, there's some loose rock. But only if you go too far right to avoid the 5.9-ish moves up there.

In general, the ruins is good solid rock (a few routes way down to the right notwithstanding)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Big Bull (5.10)
By: Forest Hill When: Feb 18, 2009

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Comments: The first bolt on this climb is entirely reasonable, IMHO. This climb is great fun, and a good warmup for the two to the left of it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Airgasm (5.10)
By: Forest Hill When: Feb 6, 2009

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Comments: One of the first routes I did after moving here, tho I certainly didn't get it clean. Great fun, and a bit intimidating.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Nang (5.10a)
By: Forest Hill When: Jan 26, 2009

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Comments: The extra bolts right of Nang are my fault. They were the result of a mixup as to where "my mother the rock" really goes. It's not where the book says it is, but after it was all said and done, Todd Bibler said I should leave the bolts, so I did. FWIW, I think it ended up a really fun (now mixed) route (there are four bolts over the course of 150 ft.)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Air Worthy (5.12-)
By: Forest Hill When: Jan 22, 2009

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Comments: Why?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Rock Candy (5.6)
By: Forest Hill When: Jan 7, 2009

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Comments: I think this is a great climb. 5.6 is probably a bit optimistic, tho. 5.7 or 5.7+ would probably be reasonable. The second pitch off the back of the ledge above is worth checking out at least once, too.

FWIW, Michele did use this as an early lead to learn the ins and outs of placing gear. Despite the awkwardness of the climb, the gear is good.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Ewephoria (5.7)
By: Forest Hill When: Jan 3, 2009

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Comments: I actually think the crux of this climb is at a bolt on the third pitch just when it gets near vertical.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Parallel Ventures (5.10b)
By: Forest Hill When: Jan 3, 2009

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Comments: This is one of my favorite routes at the Ruins. The gear-protected lower crux (just left of the the bulge in "Duh Bulge") makes the route for me. I usually find a blue or green alien is just perfect here.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Solitary Refinement (5.10-)
By: Forest Hill When: Dec 17, 2008

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Comments: Yeah, the topo on here shows it doing that. I've never climbed it that way, tho it seems like it would work fine.

The route that I and others had done goes up the flake that starts Solitary Refinement, to the horizontal crack and then goes left a little (like most people I've seen do when climbing SR, tho then they come back to the right for the next bolt.) Then it continued back into the corner on to the upper half of Cool Hand Luke. It just seems like the most natural line to me, so it was th... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Nang (5.10a)
By: Forest Hill When: Dec 13, 2008

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Comments: The walk off to the east is pretty casual, as I recall


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Solitary Refinement (5.10-)
By: Forest Hill When: Dec 13, 2008

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Comments: The bottom three bolts on this route were bolted over an existing not-quite-R trad route that I and others had done a number of times (it headed a bit left at the horizontal crack, then back into the corner and continued up to finish on Cool Hand Luke's anchors.)

I never did see that route in a guide book or anything, so I can understand that the FA'ers wouldn't have seen any references to it, but it certainly got climbed a fair bit. It also was much more continuous in its grade, staying around... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : Ridgeline
By: Forest Hill When: Apr 19, 2006

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Comments: Hey, Folks. Sorry for the administrative backlog here. I've removed the comments that were unrelated to the routes here.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : windy/point/destruction
By: Forest Hill When: Jun 6, 2005

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Comments: Climbed this yesterday. Unfortunately, it was really difficult to figure out where the route went. seems unlikely that this could be a problem on a sport route, but it was.

At least one bolt placement was messed up (looks like he sunk the bolt too deep) and the resulting mess was not cleaned up.

Also, several of the bolts were impossible to see from the clipping stance.

As much as I hate to say bad things about a route, we did our best to decipher it, but in the end we had to agree that it j... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : St. Valentines Day Massacre (5.8-)
By: Forest Hill When: Jan 31, 2005

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Comments: FWIW, I'm the one who mentioned to Ben that I thought some of the bolts on this route were unnecessary.

Thanks, Ben, for being willing to go back and take another look at the route!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Santa Rita Mountains : Elephant Head : West Gully (5.6 R)
By: Forest Hill When: Nov 1, 2004

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Comments: Did this yesterday. Great fun, abut a very long day the way we did it. We did 5 pitches of 5.6-ish climbing right off the ground (starting further to the north than what we later thought was the normal easy slabby start. This made for 12 60m pitches of roped climbing and a lot of 3rd class in between.

We also turned right down a drainage right as the cairns ran out, having been warned not to go too far and end up in the box canyon. This was definitely not the trail. But it did work, after ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Centerpiece (5.10-)
By: Forest Hill When: Oct 5, 2004

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Comments: Yeah, I agree that it's pretty stiff for the rating.

You'll never know how good/stiff it is if you don't get on it. I think we've all gotten on some things with a "I hope I can make it" attitude. I know lots of people who do.

Ithink it's good to know that you're not screwed/going to lose gear if it turns out that you can't finish the pitch.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Centerpiece (5.10-)
By: Forest Hill When: Oct 4, 2004

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Comments: Althought it should be noted that there's plenty of pro on the route, so you can aid past just about any hard part. Especially the crux.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Ego Donor (5.9)
By: Forest Hill When: Sep 30, 2004

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Comments: It's definitely safely bolted, so I think anyone who wants to give it a try should. You can always back off.

But I honestly thought this was one of the most sustained 5.9 sport routes I'd ever done when I first moved here and did it. It's great, and it really is a 5.9. but almost every move is 5.9, IMHO.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : My Left Foot (5.9)
By: Forest Hill When: Aug 16, 2004

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Comments: This was great great fun. The one bolt is highly appropriate where it is, and the pro on the rest of the route is anywhere you want it to be. The 2nd half of the climb has 30 feet or so of rare Mt Lemmon crack, and for that I definitely give it two stars.


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