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Fashion Victim


Member Since: Jul 31, 2012
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
Contact Steve Weyand

Point Rank: # 1,223
Total Points: 546
Last Year: 545
Last 30 Days: 31
12 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Steve Weyand been climbing?










Contributions


All 153 | Routes 30 | Areas 4 | Photos 33 | Page Improvements | Comments 21 | Posts 4 | Stars 48 | Ratings 13

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Wonderland : Dirty Fingers, Clean Palms (5.11)
By: Steve Weyand When: 3 days ago

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Comments: I redpointed it this morning for the second ascent and think that 5.11b is fair because of the no hands rest after the crux, before entering the fun pockets below the anchors. I did a little more cleaning on the intro moves today. Fun route and perfect name! Thanks for the addition Dan!


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : West Side Cave Routes : Rock Candy (5.11d V4+)
By: Steve Weyand When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Got on this route again and concur that the rating is way off from other publications. With a pretty hard move around V4+, it deserves an upgrade in the rating to 5.11d


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Wonderland : Impossible Thing (5.9)
By: Steve Weyand When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Another fun new route with fun movement through the flake up and over the bulge. Very well protected for the new leader.

I scrubbed many of the lower holds to clean up the dirt and debris in the lower pockets.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Wonderland : Bioclastic Crack (5.8)
By: Steve Weyand When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Fun move across the crack.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S...
By: Steve Weyand When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: ATTENTION Redding climbers!

Somebody visited The Shredding on either April 24th or the morning of the 25th and stole several of the permanent stainless lower offs from the anchors of Crank Whore, Space Slut and Fashion Victim.

If anybody has any information regarding the individuals involved in the theft or the whereabouts of the hardware and equipment, please contact me via PM with the details.
CMC Auto Lock Stainless carabiner
CMC Auto Lock Stainless carabiner



Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Crank Whore (5.11a)
By: Steve Weyand When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: The CMC stainless auto lock lower off carabiners have been stolen from the chains on the anchors of Crank Whore! If you took them, please return them ASAP. If you know who participated in this criminal behavior please PM me with the details so I can follow up with the involved party.
CMC stainless locking lower off carabiner.
CMC stainless locking lower off carabiner.



Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Fashion Victim (5.11a/b)
By: Steve Weyand When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: The CMC stainless lower off carabiners have been stolen from Fashion Victim. Below is a pic. Please PM me if you know the culprit.
Missing CMC stainless carabiner
Missing CMC stainless carabiner



Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Space Sluts (5.12a)
By: Steve Weyand When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: The CMC stainless Auto lock carabiners on Space Sluts have been stolen. Please PM me if you know who may have done this.
Missing anchor lower off carabiners
Missing anchor lower off carabiners



Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : The Squeeze (closed project... (5.12+)
By: Steve Weyand When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: Somebody has stolen the the CMC stainless steel carabiners off of the chains on this route!

Not cool! If you did it, put them back. If you know who did, tell them they were wrong to remove them and they need to put them back. This occurred either April 24th or 25th 2015. Removing gear from an anchor is never okay!!!!

If you have any details about this heinous act, please PM me so I can follow up with the party involved.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : The Squeeze (closed project... (5.12+)
By: Steve Weyand When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: Somebody removed my red webbing on the 2nd and last bolts of this route. They were the red tags indicating the route is a closed projects. I've replaced a red quick link as my new marker. Please do not remove.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Opposite Main Wall : Gateway Drug (5.5)
By: Steve Weyand When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the new route Dan! New lead climbers will love this one!


Location: CrimperE6 : N cal and locale' : Photo
By: Steve Weyand When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: Great vantage point for that pic and a great route.....though I am a bit bias!


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : PMS (5.13-)
By: Steve Weyand When: Mar 19, 2015

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Comments: A local consensus is to fill the mono when I retrobolt this route in the near future. With the drilled mono, the route is considered 5.12d/.13a.....without the mono, it may push the grade to hard .13+/.14-?

Please leave any comments or concerns about changing this route from a manufactured mono on the retrobolt.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Space Sluts (5.12a)
By: Steve Weyand When: Mar 1, 2015

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Comments: Space Sluts has a new anchor!

The new anchor consists of 2- 3/8" X 3.5" Powers 5 piece bolts with Fixe hangers and 3/8" Maillons quick links, plated chain with a steel locking caribiner and spring shut to allow for safe lower-offs

This route now has a seperate anchor from Crank Whore, however both routes can continue to use this anchor for a top rope or to access Crank Whore's new anchors with some creativity.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Crank Whore (5.11a)
By: Steve Weyand When: Mar 1, 2015

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Comments: Crank Whore has new anchors!

The large chain that has hung around the giant pine tree at the cliffs edge has been removed . Although it allows for easy setup of a top rope, it has caused serious wear around the tree and to the limestone along the cliff's edge. After discussing the damage and wear with the original installer and other developers in the area, it was removed for the safety of all climbers.

The new main anchor below the tree is now the top anchors for Space Sluts.

Crank Whore... more >>


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Crank Whore (5.11a)
By: Steve Weyand When: Mar 1, 2015

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Comments: BROKEN CRUX HOLD!

For those who have climbed Crank Whore in the past and are familiar with the common right hand crux hold at the 5th bolt, this hold broke off this week leaving a 6 inch oblong blank spot. If you are taller, it may be possible to use a 2 finger pocket above the broken section. I know many people who have opted to not use the right hand hold and move straight up through pinches and slopers to bypass this move. For smaller climbers, due to the reachiness, I believe this increa... more >>


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Back Walls : Dread the Shred (5.12+)
By: Steve Weyand When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: I added an additional Top Rope access bolt to shore up the single older access bolt. The new bolt is a 3/8"x3.5" Powers Bolt with a plated Fixe hanger. This also allows for easier access if setting an TR for the newer route In To Deep


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : Jaws (5.9)
By: Steve Weyand When: Jan 22, 2015

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Comments: This route now has a 2 bolt anchor and chains. The position of the anchor allows for some top rope variations to the right of Jaws ranging between 5.7-5.9.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Pachyderm Wall AKA Sunshine... : Hole in the Wall (5.11a) : Photo
By: Steve Weyand When: Jan 22, 2015

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Comments: Nice Pic!


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Love Muffin (5.12a)
By: Steve Weyand When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: On May 9, 2014 I replaced the rusty 1st bolt and hanger with a new Powers 3.5" bolt and Fixe hanger. Bolts 2, 3, & 4 are still in good shape and the hangers and nuts have been straitened and tightened. I also replaced the 2 bolt anchor and manky cable with 2 new bolts and hangers and added quick links and leaver 'biners for the lower off.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Opposite Main Wall : Baby Food (5.7)
By: Steve Weyand When: Aug 8, 2012

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Comments: The carabiners are gone and have been replaced with quick links. Bolts and hangers are in good condition.


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