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Member Since: Jul 31, 2012
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Steve Weyand


Point Rank: # 1,284
Total Points: 511
Last Year: 510
Last 30 Days: 14
12 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Steve Weyand been climbing?










Contributions


All 127 | Routes 30 | Areas 4 | Photos 28 | Page Improvements | Comments 11 | Posts | Stars 44 | Ratings 10

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : PMS (5.13-)
By: Steve Weyand When: Mar 19, 2015

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Comments: A local consensus is to fill the mono when I retrobolt this route in the near future. With the drilled mono, the route is considered 5.12d/.13a.....without the mono, it may push the grade to hard .13+/.14-?

Please leave any comments or concerns about changing this route from a manufactured mono on the retrobolt.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Space Sluts (5.12a)
By: Steve Weyand When: Mar 1, 2015

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Comments: Space Sluts has a new anchor!

The larger than life chain that hung from the large pine tree at the cliffs edge has not only been an eye sore, but has caused a cumulation of damage to the tree and the limestone rock on the cliffs edge. It was removed after discussion with the original installer and after finding evidence of rusting and corrosion causing metal fatigue and brittleness.

The new anchor consists of 2- 3/8" X 3.5" Powers 5 piece bolts with Fixe hangers and 3/8" Maillons quick links,... more >>


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Crank Whore (5.11a)
By: Steve Weyand When: Mar 1, 2015

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Comments: Crank Whore has new anchors!

The larger than life chain that has hung around the giant pine tree at the cliffs edge has been an eye sore for years. Although it allows for easy setup of a top rope, it has caused serious wear around the tree and to the limestone along the cliff's edge. After discussing the chain issue with the Original installer and several other developers in the the area, and after discovering rust and corrosion causing metal brittleness at the looped links, it was removed ... more >>


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Crank Whore (5.11a)
By: Steve Weyand When: Mar 1, 2015

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Comments: For those who have climbed Crank Whore in the past and are familiar with the common right hand crux hold at the 5th bolt, this hold broke off this week leaving a 6 inch oblong blank spot. If you are taller, it may be possible to use a 2 finger pocket above the broken section. I know many people who have opted to not use the right hand hold and move straight up through less than positive slopers. For us shorter folks, I believe this increases the grade from the previous 5.11a to a much more te... more >>


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Back Walls : Dread the Shred (5.12+)
By: Steve Weyand When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: I added an additional Top Rope access bolt to shore up the single older access bolt. The new bolt is a 3/8"x3.5" Powers Bolt with a plated Fixe hanger. This also allows for easier access if setting an TR for the newer route In To Deep


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : Jaws (5.9)
By: Steve Weyand When: Jan 22, 2015

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Comments: This route now has a 2 bolt anchor and chains. The position of the anchor allows for some top rope variations to the right of Jaws ranging between 5.7-5.9.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Pachyderm Wall AKA Sunshine... : Hole in the Wall (5.11a) : Photo
By: Steve Weyand When: Jan 22, 2015

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Comments: Nice Pic!


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : West Side Cave Routes : Rock Candy (5.11a)
By: Steve Weyand When: Jan 13, 2015

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Comments: I haven't been on it in 2 years. A few local bats had aggressively made it clear they didn't want us on it. I agree that it felt more difficult than 10.b even 2 years ago. I'll try to get back on it now that you guys have cleared the bats out. Maybe we can come to a consensus on grade. In my opinion, it should probably be an 11.a.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Beds (5.12+)
By: Steve Weyand When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: The chains are showing wear on this route, however it is safe. I'm planning on an anchor replacement 2015. I will update when it's complete.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Love Muffin (5.12a)
By: Steve Weyand When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: On May 9, 2014 I replaced the rusty 1st bolt and hanger with a new Powers 3.5" bolt and Fixe hanger. Bolts 2, 3, & 4 are still in good shape and the hangers and nuts have been straitened and tightened. I also replaced the 2 bolt anchor and manky cable with 2 new bolts and hangers and added quick links and leaver 'biners for the lower off.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Opposite Main Wall : Baby Food (5.7)
By: Steve Weyand When: Aug 8, 2012

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Comments: The carabiners are gone and have been replaced with quick links. Bolts and hangers are in good condition.


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