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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine : Mine Shaft (5.6 X)
By: Floyd Hayes When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: It looks like a large rock smashed the thick wooden brace, with only a few slender slivers remaining, which means it is no longer available for protection if leading and increases the rating from PG13 to X.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Baby Atlas (aka The Chicken... (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Jim Thornburg's "Bay Area Rock" calls it Baby Atlas and attributes the first ascent to Ken Stanton.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Rite of Passage (5.6)
By: Floyd Hayes When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Curious to know how hard the left crack would be, I led it on May 19, 2013. Presumably someone else had climbed it earlier.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Saviour Heart (5.9 X)
By: Floyd Hayes When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I just led the climb up the wide crack, clipping the first two bolts, placing a few cams, climbing left of the third bolt (didn't clip it), and finishing on a thin, well protected crack just below the anchor. It didn't feel any harder than 5.7.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Something Good (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: The fixed pin is no longer there. I hope it didn't pull when somebody fell on it. Somebody needs to put in a bolt because the first bolt is now waaaay up off the deck.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Far Side Chimney (5.6)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: How did this gem of a trad climb get overlooked in previous books and online climbing sites? I first led it onsight on March 10, 2013.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : Camel (5.10b)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.10b?!? Yeah, right. I tried leading it onsight and gave up after a couple of whippers, then I top-roped it. Okay, I wasn't in the best of shape at the time, but it was a lot harder than I expected for 5.10b. And why were the bolts placed so far to the right? With the rope extending down and out below the first bolt, when you fall and pendulum to the right it's easy to flip backward over it--as I did.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock : Wine Wall : Captain Choss (5.10d)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've posted a video of the climb at youtu.be/yd0EQ6Fepoo
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : 5.9 (5.10a)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thompson and Rough, this is really great route! And amply protected with four bolts. After leading it a second time and continuing directly up and left above the last bolt, I think it's about 5.10a.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : 18NY (aka The Chickens are ... (5.9)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jim Thornburg's "Bay Area Rock" calls it 18NY, rates it 5.10a, and attributes the first ascent to Ken Stanton.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Farther (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The location of this climb is mislabeled in the photo of Jim Thornburg's "Bay Area Rock." This climb is on the next rock formation below and to the left. The climb labeled Farther in his photo is actually Let's Climb Naked (aka Far).
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Let's Climb Naked (aka Far) (5.8 PG13)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Following Jim Thornburg's "Bay Area Rock," I've changed the name from "Far" to "Let's Get Naked." I wonder where that name came from? Nobody is attributed with the first ascent in his book. Also, I think he has mislabeled its position in the photograph. It should be route number 16 (I don't think route number 17 exists).
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle : Table Scraps (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Unfortunately the first bolt was missing this afternoon. I didn't examine it carefully to be certain what happened to it. I clipped the first bolt of Appertif, which wasn't very reassuring.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock : Wine Wall : Captain Choss (5.10d)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jan 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed it with Andrew Taylor on July 8, 2012. Pitch 1 had 12 (not 14) protection bolts and pitch 2 had 7 (not 9) protection bolts. On pitch 2 the first headwall felt like 5.10c and the second felt like 5.10d. I took three leader falls at the crux, once when a foothold broke, once when a handhold broke, and once when I simply rested on the rope after clipping a bolt. Luckily I did not hit the big ledge beneath it. There were no chains at the top so we rapped off two quickdraws that we later re... more >>
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock : Iron Curtain : Spy Vs. Spy (5.10b)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jan 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crumbly but well protected.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle : Wine Style (5.11b)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jan 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Somehow I flashed it as an onsight lead, but fell and couldn't finish during two subsequent attempts at leading. On the latter occasion I was at the third bolt when I very nearly cratered, as can be seen in this video: youtu.be/ddXWML7BQAs
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Satellite Rocks : Wednesday Wall : Milky Way (5.10a/b)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Oct 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We wound up stepping off the rock at the start rather than the ground below it, which seemed much harder than 5.10b if even possible.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, West Face : Pony Express (5.9)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Aug 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 2 has a committing 5.9 lieback section about 10' long protected by big #4 and #5 BD cams, followed by a rest on a ledge and then another 15' or so of 5.7 crack. Don't underestimate the "5.9 move to 3rd class" described in the SuperTopo guide.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : Hogwild : Accessory Dogs (5.10a)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Aug 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's about 90' and nearly runout with wild traverses out left onto the buttress up to 15' above a bolt (or more if you don't get in a cam or two between the 4th and 5th bolts). The crux is a funky mantel just above the first bolt--my partner and I both thought it was real hard for 5.10a. If you get above that you should be okay.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Lower Gibraltar : Lieback Annie (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jul 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sweet lead! But stiff for 5.7.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Lower Gibraltar : Left of Rapture (5.8+)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jul 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Less aesthetic than The Rapture but the moves are more fun and thought-provoking, and no harder (in my opinion).
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Spiderman Buttress : Spiderman (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jul 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Forget the nuts--I didn't use a single one. The cracks eat up medium to big cams--taking two sets would be useful. Where was the class 4 walkoff? We wound up descending the last 10' by hand on an old fixed rope with knots.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Red Wall : Super Slab (5.6)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jul 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the first few moves of pitch 3, which can be protected with a monster #5 BD cam, were the crux (stiff for 5.6). If walking off, the class 4 downclimb and 5.7 exit gully are neither trivial nor unexposed--a tumble from either would really hurt! The short but fun "unprotected" crux in the exit gully CAN be protected with gear (there is a small lieback crack) and a two-bolt anchor at the top can be used to belay your partner(s), which I discovered after free-soloing it. The scenic M... more >>
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Sheer Energy (5.10a)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jul 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: At the first bolt I stepped left on a tiny hold and climbed the face directly above--and it felt much harder than what I expected for 5.10a (I took a couple of leader falls). One of my partners stayed in the corner and liebacked a well chalked flake, which may have been the 5.10a way.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jun 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you plan to climb in Silverado Mine during the weekend, be aware that REI often teaches a basic rock climbing course. If you see their well marked van in the parking lot, you can assume that several routes will be occupied by the class. However, the instructors are very tolerant of other climbers and willing to share routes.
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