Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Jun 3, 2008
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Floyd Hayes

Point Rank: # 467
Total Points: 1,407
Last Year: 31
Last 30 Days: 17
3 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Floyd Hayes been climbing?










Contributions


All 856 | Routes 75 | Areas 4 | Photos 75 | Page Improvements | Comments 222 | Posts | Stars 278 | Ratings 202
Page 1 of 9.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Aug 23, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Regarding the cruxes, I thought there were two short 5.8 sections on pitch 5 and one short 5.8 section at the start of pitch 7, all solid and very well-protected. Fabulous climb! It was easy avoiding loose rock.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Aug 23, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: While editing my photos, I found one showing the options for the final headwall pitch and posted it to the photo album (#51) with six labeled options. Option A or B must be the Head Crack pitch. We climbed option C, which seemed to fit the descriptions of other climbers who recommended climbing a steep, right-facing dihedral, but the move over the overhang was strenuous, feeling more like 5.9 than 5.7. The cracks to the right were lower angle and appeared easier, but we weren't sure if the... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jul 29, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: For the last headwall pitch, we considered three major crack options (excluding the Head Crack option around the corner to the left): (1) a large, steep, right-facing dihedral with a small overhang on the left; (2) a right-facing corner slanting up and right in the center; (3) and a right-facing corner with a small overhang on the far right. Regrettably we didn't take a photo. The latter two looked easier, but unable to see whether they finished on a ledge, we chose the left ... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Far aka Let's Climb Naked (5.8 PG13)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jul 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I've changed it again to "Far aka Let's Climb Naked." I once met Ken Stanton on a trail and he said he had an old topo that he made for Far Side climbs, but I haven't seen it (yet).


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Boy Scout Rocks : Main Area : Explorer Scout (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jun 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: There are a few "routes" on this face, easier to the left and harder to the right.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Boy Scout Rocks : Main Area : Eagle Scout (5.7+)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jun 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Harder than I expected for 5.7.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine : Overhang (5.9)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jun 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The loose flake at the crux is now gone, probably pulled off by a climber. It's now a longer reach to the crack and harder to lead. Before it was 5.8/5.9, now it's more solid 5.9, but harder if you're short (I'm 5'10").


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine : Bolt Route (5.10b/c)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jun 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The bolt held me during a short fall several years ago, but your warning is certainly appropriate--it's an old bolt. You can also get in a small nut several feet below and right of the bolt if you're climbing up the right side (visible in the photo), but it's not a great placement and may not hold a fall. The diagonal crack about 8' below and right of the bolt has solid protection (visible in the photo), but a fall onto it from the crux would probably be painful.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Angwin : Bell Canyon
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jun 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Oh sheesh, I'm very sorry to hear that happened to you. I'm pretty sure the property has been owned by St. Helena Hospital for decades and water had been taken from the stream for decades, too, but the trails have always been popular for hiking and biking, and open to the public. The last few years the hospital invested a lot of money into upgrading the water pumps and pipes. I knew barriers had been set up but I thought they were temporary while construction was going on during weekdays. People... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : Munginella (5.6)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A video of the route is posted here: youtu.be/GoQUnC6N1YU


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Koka (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Feb 22, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: After leading it a second time it felt easier, more like 5.8.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : Machete Ridge Area : Old Original (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Feb 5, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A video of the route is posted at youtu.be/OUsEcyYC6tE


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jan 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: More details are posted at the SuperTopo forum: supertopo.com/climbing/thread....


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jan 26, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I learned from a friend that a lead climber fell 20 feet to the ground when a hold broke on January 24. Apparently the climber survived. The bolts are closely spaced on all of the routes, so I'm curious to know what happened. Bolt pulled? Poor belay? The only news I could find online (not much) is posted here:

napavalleyregister.com/news/lo...

And here:

lakeconews.com/index.php?optio...... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : Machete Ridge Area : Old Original (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jan 23, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I have David Rubine's older guide, not Brad Young's newer guide, so I don't know how good the directions are for the alternative Derringer Direct (Bullseye Variation) start, which I highly recommend. I couldn't find much information online, so here's my description:

APPROACH: After hiking uphill past the steep south buttress of Machete Ridge you arrive at the lower angle southeast face. Just below the first pine tree (of five), scramble left across sloping ledges to the base of the largest groo... more >>


Location: CA : Northeast California : Castle Crags : The Ogre aka Mt. Hubris : Cosmic Wall (5.6 R)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Sep 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I enjoyed climbing the route again on August 31, but near the bottom of the descent I was chased a few hundred feet by an angry swarm of yellow jackets, which stung me about 15 times. I killed most of them, so hopefully it won't happen to anybody else!


Location: CA : High Sierra : Ritter and the Minarets : Clyde Minaret : Southeast Face (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Aug 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Don't underestimate the route finding problems. For those who do the original start, the topo here and in Supertopo are misleading because they show 2-3 pitches of traversing to the right when it is actually just a little more than 1 pitch. I have uploaded (photo #25) a detailed topo of the first three pitches plus our rappel route (we realized we wouldn't make it to the top before dark). We wound up spending several hours checking out various options (indicated with an arrow and "no") bef... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A video of the route showing each pitch is posted at youtu.be/Nq1I5B5Igq0


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : The Farthing (5.8 PG13)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: We liked this route more than Lichen It. The protection is solid but it takes time to find good placements. A double-bolt anchor about 15' beyond the top provides the best anchor.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Lichen It (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Too bad it has an easy section between the lower 5.6 and upper 5.7 section. Cracks under a big block at the top provide an obvious belay anchor, but it's safer using a more solid crack above it. There is now a double-bolt rappel anchor higher up.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : Jaws (5.9)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Apr 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: After forgetting to pull a cam off Cheeky Bastard while rappelling, I decided to climb this obvious, easy-looking route to quickly retrieve it. It's probably been climbed before, but it's not in "Locals Guide to Rock Climbs of Northeast California" and I couldn't find it online. I climbed it with Cheri Ermshar on March 15, 2014.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : Figure Four (5.10b)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: 5.8+?!? I'm pretty sure this route is called Figure Four 5.10b in Locals Guide to Rock Climbs of Northeast California, but we thought it was harder than 5.10b!


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : The Nose (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route is called The Nose 5.8 in "Locals Guide to Rock Climbs of Northeast California." It looks slightly overhanging and intimidating, but the holds are big and halfway up you can move right onto the arete and rest your arms.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : Cheeky Bastard (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route is called Cheeky Bastard 5.7 in "Locals Guide to Rock Climbs of Northeast California." After the 4th bolt I moved left and then back right to the anchor. A friend got in a small cam on the left to protect the final move.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : ... : Photo
By: Floyd Hayes When: Feb 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Ha ha, probably nothing more than approach shoes, a light jacket, a few snacks and water.


Page 1 of 9.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!