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Member Since: Jun 3, 2008
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
Contact Floyd Hayes


Point Rank: # 425
Total Points: 1,376
Last Year: 89
Last 30 Days: 6
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Floyd Hayes been climbing?










Contributions


All 817 | Routes 75 | Areas 4 | Photos 72 | Page Improvments | Comments 206 | Posts | Stars 268 | Ratings 192
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Sierra : Clyde Minaret : Southeast Face (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Don't underestimate the route finding problems on this route. For those who do the original start, the topo here and in Supertopo are misleading because they show 2-3 pitches of traversing to the right when it is actually just a little more than 1 pitch. I have uploaded a detailed topo of the first three pitches plus our rappel route (we realized we wouldn't make it to the top before dark). We wound up spending several hours checking out various options (indicated with an arrow and "no") before ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: A video of the route showing each pitch is posted at youtu.be/Nq1I5B5Igq0


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : The Farthing (5.8 PG13)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: We liked this route more than Lichen It. The protection is solid but it takes time to find good placements. A double-bolt anchor about 15' beyond the top provides the best anchor.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Lichen It (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: Too bad it has an easy section between the lower 5.6 and upper 5.7 section. Cracks under a big block at the top provide an obvious belay anchor, but it's safer using a more solid crack above it. There is no a double-bolt rappel anchor higher up.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : Jaws (5.9)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: After forgetting to pull a cam off Cheeky Bastard while rappelling, I decided to climb this obvious, easy-looking route to quickly retrieve it. It's probably been climbed before, but it's not in "Locals Guide to Rock Climbs of Northeast California" and I couldn't find it online. I climbed it with Cheri Ermshar on March 15, 2014.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : Figure Four (5.10b)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: 5.8+?!? I'm pretty sure this route is called Figure Four 5.10b in Locals Guide to Rock Climbs of Northeast California, but we thought it was harder than 5.10b!


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : The Nose (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: This route is called The Nose 5.8 in "Locals Guide to Rock Climbs of Northeast California." It looks slightly overhanging and intimidating, but the holds are big and halfway up you can move right onto the arete and rest your arms.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : Cheeky Bastard (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: This route is called Cheeky Bastard 5.7 in "Locals Guide to Rock Climbs of Northeast California." After the 4th bolt I moved left and then back right to the anchor. A friend got in a small cam on the left to protect the final move.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : ... : Photo
By: Floyd Hayes When: Feb 4, 2014

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Comments: Ha ha, probably nothing more than approach shoes, a light jacket, a few snacks and water.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Step To The Left (5.8 X)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: A direct variation, up the overhang, is 5.10a and can be led after placing a cam just right of the overhang--or climbing higher to clip the second bolt and downclimbing to tackle the overhang.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Death to the right (5.10 R)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: As Jerry Dodrill stated, this is a variation of Step to the Left. Instead of stepping left after clipping the second bolt on the vertical dihedral, move right under the roof (easy class five), clip the hidden third bolt above the roof (a bomber small cam can be placed beneath the roof), and pull the roof. The climb is well protected with supplemental cams, but be careful between the first cam and first bolt. If top-roping, use the third bolt as a directional.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Old Spice (5.9)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Dec 9, 2013

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Comments: I first climbed this with Andrew Taylor on November 17, 2013.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : Dry Falls : Falling Shirkens (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Dec 4, 2013

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Comments: Unfortunately no. We intended to climb History Repeats Itself but just as we arrived a shower soaked the rock, which became really slick. So instead we opted for the easier Falling Shirkens, which dried up after we finished the first pitch (which felt like 5.10 when wet!). We had a big family reunion for Thanksgiving in Palm Desert and didn't have time to do another route.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : Dry Falls : Falling Shirkens (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 30, 2013

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Comments: Pitch 1 is 90' and has 4 protection bolts. Pitch 2 is about 115' and has 6 protection bolts (or 7 if you move slightly right and clip an off-route anchor with a long sling about halfway up the pitch). Walking off looked scary (class 4 or easy class 5?). We used two ropes to rappel. A single 70 m rope might suffice. The bolts are all good (except for the off-route anchor, which has old quarter-inch bolts).


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Saviour Heart (5.9 X)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: Here's a video of climbing the crack variation and a second pitch up Initiation Rite in bad weather.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: If you like trad climbing, consider climbing "Tradfest II 5.9," a contrived "multipitch" adventure linking 7 moderate trad climbs on 6 pinnacles from the bottom to the top of The Far Side. A description and a link to a video are provided for the route "Tradfest."


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Synchronicity (5.11+)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Two bolts with quick links were there yesterday and they looked like they had been there a while.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Hummingbird Spire, N. Face (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: I removed the old slings and put the quick link on the bolt itself. It's easy pulling down the rope.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Koka (5.9)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: The hand crack was strenuous and felt like 5.9 when I led it onsight, but it might be 5.8.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Tradfest (5.9)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Trying to do something new and different at The Far Side, I first linked these routes on November 10, 2013 with Cheri Ermshar. For pitch 1 we climbed Far Side Chimney and for pitch 2 we climbed Rite of Passage. A video of the climb is posted here.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock : Iron Curtain : Defector (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Definitely harder than Fist Full of Rubles. Three of us thought it was solid 5.9 at the crux about halfway up. Maybe a hold or two broke?


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock : Iron Curtain : Fist Full of Rubles (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Today there were eight protection bolts, not nine. If one is missing it wasn't needed.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock : The Shock Block : Decorator Crab (5.10a)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: The first bolt of the lower start is missing. We found a stick to clip the second bolt.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : The Bear Crack (5.9+)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: More physical, sustained and challenging than I thought it would be. For me the crux was hanging on while spending like 2-5 minutes trying to figure out how to fit each cam that I placed in the gnarly cracks (to my dismay I had to rest three times). It was harder than a lot of 5.10a trad climbs that I led, although I'll admit it was easier than a few "5.9s" (specifically pitch 2 of Traveler Buttress and pitch 2 of Reed's Pinnacle Direct, so if you think they're typical 5.9s you can consider this... more >>


Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : Cosumnes River Gorge : Gutenberger Wall : Gutenberger Wall Direct (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: There are no bolted anchors along the cracks, so you'll have to build your own belay anchors with gear. I wished I had taken along a second set of cams up to 2" because I had to skip a few opportunities for protection when I lacked the right sized cams. Higher up the crack forks. The right fork was much dirtier, so I took the left fork and then traversed back to the right on dirty holds below the bolted anchor to the left. For a short section above my traverse the holds were really dirty and ske... more >>


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