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Member Since: Jun 3, 2008
Last Visit: Apr 7, 2014
Contact Floyd Hayes


Point Rank: # 413
Total Points: 1,351
Last Year: 191
Last 30 Days: 3
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (804) | Routes (74) | Areas (4) | Photos (70) | Comments (201) | Posts | Stars (265) | Ratings (190)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : Figure Four (5.10b)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: 5.8+?!? I'm pretty sure this route is called Figure Four 5.10b in Locals Guide to Rock Climbs of Northeast California, but we thought it was harder than 5.10b!


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : The Nose (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: This route is called The Nose 5.8 in "Locals Guide to Rock Climbs of Northeast California." It looks slightly overhanging and intimidating, but the holds are big and halfway up you can move right onto the arete and rest your arms.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : Cheeky Bastard (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: This route is called Cheeky Bastard 5.7 in "Locals Guide to Rock Climbs of Northeast California." After the 4th bolt I moved left and then back right to the anchor. A friend got in a small cam on the left to protect the final move.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : ... : Photo
By: Floyd Hayes When: Feb 4, 2014

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Comments: Ha ha, probably nothing more than approach shoes, a light jacket, a few snacks and water.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Step To The Left (5.8 X)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: A direct variation, up the overhang, is 5.10a and can be led after placing a cam just right of the overhang--or climbing higher to clip the second bolt and downclimbing to tackle the overhang.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Death to the right (5.10 R)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: As Jerry Dodrill stated, this is a variation of Step to the Left. Instead of stepping left after clipping the second bolt on the vertical dihedral, move right under the roof (easy class five), clip the hidden third bolt above the roof (a bomber small cam can be placed beneath the roof), and pull the roof. The climb is well protected with supplemental cams, but be careful between the first cam and first bolt. If top-roping, use the third bolt as a directional.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Old Spice (5.9)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Dec 9, 2013

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Comments: I first climbed this with Andrew Taylor on November 17, 2013.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : Dry Falls : Falling Shirkens (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Dec 4, 2013

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Comments: Unfortunately no. We intended to climb History Repeats Itself but just as we arrived a shower soaked the rock, which became really slick. So instead we opted for the easier Falling Shirkens, which dried up after we finished the first pitch (which felt like 5.10 when wet!). We had a big family reunion for Thanksgiving in Palm Desert and didn't have time to do another route.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : Dry Falls : Falling Shirkens (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 30, 2013

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Comments: Pitch 1 is 90' and has 4 protection bolts. Pitch 2 is about 115' and has 6 protection bolts (or 7 if you move slightly right and clip an off-route anchor with a long sling about halfway up the pitch). Walking off looked scary (class 4 or easy class 5?). We used two ropes to rappel. A single 70 m rope might suffice. The bolts are all good (except for the off-route anchor, which has old quarter-inch bolts).


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Saviour Heart (5.9 X)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: Here's a video of climbing the crack variation and a second pitch up Initiation Rite in bad weather.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: If you like trad climbing, consider climbing "Tradfest II 5.9," a contrived "multipitch" adventure linking 7 moderate trad climbs on 6 pinnacles from the bottom to the top of The Far Side. A description and a link to a video are provided for the route "Tradfest."


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Synchronicity (5.11+)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Two bolts with quick links were there yesterday and they looked like they had been there a while.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Hummingbird Spire, N. Face (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: I removed the old slings and put the quick link on the bolt itself. It's easy pulling down the rope.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Koka (5.9)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: The hand crack was strenuous and felt like 5.9 when I led it onsight, but it might be 5.8.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Tradfest (5.9)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Trying to do something new and different at The Far Side, I first linked these routes on November 10, 2013 with Cheri Ermshar. For pitch 1 we climbed Far Side Chimney and for pitch 2 we climbed Rite of Passage. A video of the climb is posted here.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock : Iron Curtain : Defector (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Definitely harder than Fist Full of Rubles. Three of us thought it was solid 5.9 at the crux about halfway up. Maybe a hold or two broke?


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock : Iron Curtain : Fist Full of Rubles (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Today there were eight protection bolts, not nine. If one is missing it wasn't needed.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock : The Shock Block : Decorator Crab (5.10a)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: The first bolt of the lower start is missing. We found a stick to clip the second bolt.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : The Bear Crack (5.9+)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: More physical, sustained and challenging than I thought it would be. For me the crux was hanging on while spending like 2-5 minutes trying to figure out how to fit each cam that I placed in the gnarly cracks (to my dismay I had to rest three times). It was harder than a lot of 5.10a trad climbs that I led, although I'll admit it was easier than a few "5.9s" (specifically pitch 2 of Traveler Buttress and pitch 2 of Reed's Pinnacle Direct, so if you think they're typical 5.9s you can consider this... more >>


Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : Cosumnes River Gorge : Gutenberger Wall : Gutenberger Wall Direct (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: There are no bolted anchors along the cracks, so you'll have to build your own belay anchors with gear. I wished I had taken along a second set of cams up to 2" because I had to skip a few opportunities for protection when I lacked the right sized cams. Higher up the crack forks. The right fork was much dirtier, so I took the left fork and then traversed back to the right on dirty holds below the bolted anchor to the left. For a short section above my traverse the holds were really dirty and ske... more >>


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pulpit? : Prelude (5.6)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: The first bolt is 20' up and out of character with the rest of the climb (much better protected), which will scare some beginning climbers off what is essentially a beginners route. The upper part of the climb is awesome! The climb is about 90' high with a walkoff.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : The Pillar (5.8+ PG13)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: I thought pitch 1 was 5.7 and pitch 2 was 5.9 (way harder!). And I thought pitch 2 was well protected. Also, the climb is definitely longer than 120 feet. I measured pitch 2 at about 90' but didn't think to measure pitch 1.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Castle Crags : The Ogre aka Mt. Hubris : Cosmic Wall (5.6 R)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: A video of the climb is posted here.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : The Citadel : Costanoan (5.4)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: A video of the climb is posted here.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Far (5.8 PG13)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: Okay, I've changed the name back to Far.


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