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Member Since: Jun 3, 2008
Last Visit: May 6, 2015
Contact Floyd Hayes

Point Rank: # 457
Total Points: 1,383
Last Year: 14
Last 30 Days: 1
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Floyd Hayes been climbing?










Contributions


All 828 | Routes 75 | Areas 4 | Photos 72 | Page Improvements | Comments 213 | Posts | Stars 270 | Ratings 194
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : Munginella (5.6)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 6, 2015

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Comments: A video of the route is posted here: youtu.be/GoQUnC6N1YU


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Koka (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: After leading it a second time I concur with 5.8 rating.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : Machete Ridge Area : Old Original (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Feb 5, 2015

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Comments: A video of the route is posted at youtu.be/OUsEcyYC6tE


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: More details are posted at the SuperTopo forum: supertopo.com/climbing/thread....


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: I learned from a friend that a lead climber fell 20 feet to the ground when a hold broke on January 24. Apparently the climber survived. The bolts are closely spaced on all of the routes, so I'm curious to know what happened. Bolt pulled? Poor belay? The only news I could find online (not much) is posted here:

napavalleyregister.com/news/lo...

And here:

lakeconews.com/index.php?optio...... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : Machete Ridge Area : Old Original (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jan 23, 2015

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Comments: I have David Rubine's older guide, not Brad Young's newer guide, so I don't know how good the directions are for the alternative Derringer Direct (Bullseye Variation) start, which I highly recommend. I couldn't find much information online, so here's my description:

APPROACH: After hiking uphill past the steep south buttress of Machete Ridge you arrive at the lower angle southeast face. Just below the first pine tree (of five), scramble left across sloping ledges to the base of the largest groo... more >>


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Castle Crags : The Ogre aka Mt. Hubris : Cosmic Wall (5.6 R)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: I enjoyed climbing the route again on August 31, but near the bottom of the descent I was chased a few hundred feet by an angry swarm of yellow jackets, which stung me about 15 times. I killed most of them, so hopefully it won't happen to anybody else!


Location: CA : High Sierra : Clyde Minaret : Southeast Face (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: Don't underestimate the route finding problems. For those who do the original start, the topo here and in Supertopo are misleading because they show 2-3 pitches of traversing to the right when it is actually just a little more than 1 pitch. I have uploaded (photo #25) a detailed topo of the first three pitches plus our rappel route (we realized we wouldn't make it to the top before dark). We wound up spending several hours checking out various options (indicated with an arrow and "no") bef... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: A video of the route showing each pitch is posted at youtu.be/Nq1I5B5Igq0


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : The Farthing (5.8 PG13)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: We liked this route more than Lichen It. The protection is solid but it takes time to find good placements. A double-bolt anchor about 15' beyond the top provides the best anchor.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Lichen It (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: Too bad it has an easy section between the lower 5.6 and upper 5.7 section. Cracks under a big block at the top provide an obvious belay anchor, but it's safer using a more solid crack above it. There is now a double-bolt rappel anchor higher up.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : Jaws (5.9)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: After forgetting to pull a cam off Cheeky Bastard while rappelling, I decided to climb this obvious, easy-looking route to quickly retrieve it. It's probably been climbed before, but it's not in "Locals Guide to Rock Climbs of Northeast California" and I couldn't find it online. I climbed it with Cheri Ermshar on March 15, 2014.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : Figure Four (5.10b)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: 5.8+?!? I'm pretty sure this route is called Figure Four 5.10b in Locals Guide to Rock Climbs of Northeast California, but we thought it was harder than 5.10b!


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : The Nose (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: This route is called The Nose 5.8 in "Locals Guide to Rock Climbs of Northeast California." It looks slightly overhanging and intimidating, but the holds are big and halfway up you can move right onto the arete and rest your arms.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : Cheeky Bastard (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: This route is called Cheeky Bastard 5.7 in "Locals Guide to Rock Climbs of Northeast California." After the 4th bolt I moved left and then back right to the anchor. A friend got in a small cam on the left to protect the final move.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : ... : Photo
By: Floyd Hayes When: Feb 4, 2014

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Comments: Ha ha, probably nothing more than approach shoes, a light jacket, a few snacks and water.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Step To The Left (5.8 X)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: A direct variation, up the overhang, is 5.10a and can be led after placing a cam just right of the overhang--or climbing higher to clip the second bolt and downclimbing to tackle the overhang.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Death to the right (5.10 R)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: As Jerry Dodrill stated, this is a variation of Step to the Left. Instead of stepping left after clipping the second bolt on the vertical dihedral, move right under the roof (easy class five), clip the hidden third bolt above the roof (a bomber small cam can be placed beneath the roof), and pull the roof. The climb is well protected with supplemental cams, but be careful between the first cam and first bolt. If top-roping, use the third bolt as a directional.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Old Spice (5.9)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Dec 9, 2013

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Comments: I first climbed this with Andrew Taylor on November 17, 2013.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : Dry Falls : Falling Shirkens (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Dec 4, 2013

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Comments: Unfortunately no. We intended to climb History Repeats Itself but just as we arrived a shower soaked the rock, which became really slick. So instead we opted for the easier Falling Shirkens, which dried up after we finished the first pitch (which felt like 5.10 when wet!). We had a big family reunion for Thanksgiving in Palm Desert and didn't have time to do another route.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : Dry Falls : Falling Shirkens (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 30, 2013

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Comments: Pitch 1 is 90' and has 4 protection bolts. Pitch 2 is about 115' and has 6 protection bolts (or 7 if you move slightly right and clip an off-route anchor with a long sling about halfway up the pitch). Walking off looked scary (class 4 or easy class 5?). We used two ropes to rappel. A single 70 m rope might suffice. The bolts are all good (except for the off-route anchor, which has old quarter-inch bolts).


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Saviour Heart (5.9 X)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: Here's a video of climbing the crack variation and a second pitch up Initiation Rite in bad weather.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: If you like trad climbing, consider climbing "Tradfest II 5.9," a contrived "multipitch" adventure linking 7 moderate trad climbs on 6 pinnacles from the bottom to the top of The Far Side. A description and a link to a video are provided for the route "Tradfest."


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Synchronicity (5.11+)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Two bolts with quick links were there yesterday and they looked like they had been there a while.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Hummingbird Spire, N. Face (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: I removed the old slings and put the quick link on the bolt itself. It's easy pulling down the rope.


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