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A fun hand crack


Member Since: Apr 19, 2011
Last Visit: Nov 21, 2014
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Point Rank: # 8,486
Total Points: 32
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 111 | Routes | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 22 | Posts 30 | Stars 44 | Ratings 13

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : War of the Walls (5.10c PG13)
By: fivefun When: Nov 17, 2014

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Comments: We climbed the two face pitches above the mexican flake and rapped. Since we were the only people on the route we left our backpack and remaining gear on the anchor at the top of the mexican flake which was nice not to have to carry.

Bring a singles rack of finger to off finger sized gear for the 5.9+ face pitches above. No fall territory where the bolts do not necessarily protect the crux moves without a big scary fall. Worth doing once if only you are very solid at the grade, even when the p... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Wolf's Ear (5.11-)
By: fivefun When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: Definitely not .11+ but also not a trivial route. VERY SANDY when I climbed it in Fall '14. Still a very cool route with memorable chimneying. I recommend bringing a #6 to protect the top of the chimney since the easiest climbing is on the outside and any smaller protection has to be placed deeper in the chimney where I didn't easily fit.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Liberty Cap : Scarface (Free) (5.12)
By: fivefun When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: Looks awesome! Thanks for all of your hard work, everyone.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Prince of Darkness (5.10c)
By: fivefun When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: Cool movement if you're into face climbing. I found the crux pitch to be the second pitch -- much more sustained than the one move wonder boulder problem pitch 6. Bring 17 draws at a minimum. No gear bigger than red camalot unless you're going to do the upper pitches of DOWT.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Castle Crags : Six Toe Rock : Six Toe Crack (5.8+)
By: fivefun When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: The whole route is low angle with only a few 5.8 moves. The OW at the top is great fun and a good intro to #4 size crack climbing. Bring one and walk it all the way up for a top rope on lead.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Wright's Lake : Black Beauty Wall : Velvet Gloves (5.10b)
By: fivefun When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: Incredible climb. Great pro, awesome crack. My friend rightly pointed out that this climb would have a mile long line were it in the valley.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Rock : Chouinard-Herbert (5.11c)
By: fivefun When: Feb 12, 2013

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Comments: Good TR and route description here: dreaminvertical.com/2011/11/th...


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Forest Lawn (5.9+)
By: fivefun When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: ^^^ He is back stepping throughout the entire video!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Psychedelic Tree (5.9)
By: fivefun When: Jul 22, 2012

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Comments: This climb is fun and underrated.

We climbed this route today and it is still in need of some cleaning (I'm happy to help with some instruction). A small amount of suspect rock remains but there is definitely enough for safe climbing. I found the first two pitches to be full on 5.8/9 climbing, comprable to The Line. The roof finish was memorable and exciting. Psychedelic Tree is well on its way to being a leap classic.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : PBR Street Gang (5.9+)
By: fivefun When: Jul 22, 2012

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Comments: Low angle fun. Good rock and friction. Crux move feels like 5.9 if you're 6' tall and can hold body weight on a fist jam. Great climb if you can beat the heat.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : Table Mountain : The Grotto : Table Manners (5.8)
By: fivefun When: Feb 19, 2012

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Comments: I found the anchor at the top of this climb to be in need of a replacement. Two cold-shuts; one is a rusty spinner and the other is worn half through.

Climbing the right hand crack without stemming left is a nice variation if you're looking for more of a challenge.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Reed's Pinnacle Regular Rou... (5.9)
By: fivefun When: Sep 12, 2011

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Comments: The 5.9 variation on P4 is great fun. The OW at the top can be protected with a #2 and #4. I found taking your helmet off to be very useful in the squeeze, just don't fall.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : East Wall (5.6)
By: fivefun When: Sep 5, 2011

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Comments: 5.5? heh. 5.6 climbing with 5.9 route finding, perhaps!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Upper Spire : Fear of Flying (5.9)
By: fivefun When: Jul 25, 2011

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Comments: w/r/t gear size. If you climb it in one pitch you likely won't need a #3; however, it will come in handy while building an anchor if don't link the two pitches. Excellent sustained climb.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : Lean And Mean (5.9)
By: fivefun When: Jul 25, 2011

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Comments: Roof move is quite mellow once you commit. Well protected with a blindly placed #1.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Scimitar (5.9 R)
By: fivefun When: Jun 27, 2011

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Comments: Fun climb! I found the step around on the 3rd pitch to be the crux.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker (5.8)
By: fivefun When: Jun 20, 2011

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Comments: As of Saturday June 18th P3 is still a bit wet near the top. Nothing that will derail a clean lead - just bring some chalk.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : Table Mountain : The Grotto : Granted (5.9)
By: fivefun When: Apr 27, 2011

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Comments: Really fun and easy jamming. Can stem on the left if you need to rest.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Castle Rock Proper : Chock stone (5.8)
By: fivefun When: Apr 27, 2011

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Comments: This climb is short and easy. Crux is the move over the slight ceiling but you can stem through it.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : Table Mountain : Welcome Wall : Wing of Bat (5.10a)
By: fivefun When: Apr 21, 2011

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Comments: Lots of poo in the undercling. Fortunately I let my buddies go first so when it came time to lead it I didn't get too messy. Well bolted.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : Table Mountain
By: fivefun When: Apr 21, 2011

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Comments: Climbed and camped here a few weekends ago. Is it true from the comments above that this area is day use? If so we got lucky camping out on a Saturday night. We didn't leave the Grotto until nightfall and set up camp down by the reservoir. We saw a Sheriff in the morning and he appeared to be giving us the stink eye from afar, but didn't ticket us or the car the night before.


Location: CO : Mountain Project iPhone/And...
By: fivefun When: Apr 19, 2011

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Comments: Honk, Honk, Honk, Honk!