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Member Since: Nov 8, 2007
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Point Rank: # 1,392
Total Points: 413
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Areas are worth 15
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All (1898) | Routes (23) | Areas (1) | Photos (23) | Comments (53) | Posts (17) | Stars (958) | Ratings (823)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Sail : The Brass Monkey (5.7)
By: Fett When: Mar 16, 2012

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Comments: I always thought a brass monkey was a beer with a splash of orange juice.

Edit www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=brass%20monkey


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Egg Drop Soup (5.12)
By: Fett When: Nov 20, 2011

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Comments: Whining? Wow! bit harsh dont you think? The guy got a 500lbs rock to the face and saved his life by leaving some gear behind. I would think he has the right to try to get his gear back if possible.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : ... : Photo
By: Fett When: Oct 20, 2011

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Comments: Strange whipper. Why does he have a cam in his hand with the rope clipped to it?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Lowe Blow (5.9+)
By: Fett When: Oct 17, 2011

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Comments: Bring a #4 if you dont like reaching deep into the crack for smaller pro. I also found some good gear in the flaring crack at the start of the second pitch. Some good quality rock and a stout 5.9+, i wonder why lol.


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : The Recess
By: Fett When: Sep 12, 2011

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Comments: Read the comments above, figure it out and get over it... sheeesh!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coal Pit Buttress : Stiffler's Mom (5.11a)
By: Fett When: Jul 29, 2011

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Comments: Ha! 5 foot chain, how about bring a 70m rope instead.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Shaken Climber Syndrome (5.10 PG13)
By: Fett When: Jun 27, 2011

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Comments: Consistent climbing to be had on this climb. Bolts are well spaced with nice clipping stances. Good position, and links well with The Orange Sling. Nice addition, thnx guys.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Early Bird : Early Bird (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: Fett When: Oct 31, 2010

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Comments: That thing kicked my ass. I climbed it in the middle of December last year and it was quite cold. I whipped so many times at the top I had to back up that blue tcu with a micro nut. I couldnt see where the #4 went which made me get a little off route to the left I think. I thought it was solid 12 for sure but I also dont climb a lot of trad 12s.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : La Cierta Edad (5.10d) : Photo
By: Fett When: Oct 30, 2010

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Comments: nice exposed belay!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : La Cierta Edad (5.10d)
By: Fett When: Oct 30, 2010

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Comments: Awsome route. I thought the 3rd pitch was more of a challange because it was more sustained. The 4th pitch start was just a very short offwidth crux.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Early Bird : Early Bird (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: Fett When: Oct 30, 2010

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Comments: I thought this spot was super heady and the crux. Wow, what a challange! Nice job on the cleaning and vison.


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Moosehorn : The Moore Wall : The Passage (5.7)
By: Fett When: Sep 22, 2010

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Comments: I climbed this with Rip earlier in the summer. He said that where the tat was found was most likely someones high point, there was no other evidence up higher. I guess its not a for sure answer, but seem like he deserves some credit (First recorded ascent?). Like most guide books there are some mistakes. Rip has pointed out a few things to me which I found interesting. Rip was the one who found the crag of tiers mushroom hunting one day. He told Fred and Chris about it and they went there sho... more >>


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Moosehorn : The Moore Wall : The Passage (5.7)
By: Fett When: Sep 22, 2010

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Comments: F.A. Rip Griffith


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Wall Of Tiers : The Sword (5.11b)
By: Fett When: Sep 7, 2010

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Comments: More straight forward than the sheild and a little soft (at least for me).


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Moosehorn : The Moore Wall : Mad Man of the Uinta's (5.11)
By: Fett When: Aug 19, 2010

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Comments: The rating in the book says 11b but I think is more like 11+ at the start. Compared to Ray of Light, Mad Man is harder at the start for sure. With both hands lie backing with a knee bar on the same slopey hold then throw for a tiny crimp didn't feel like 5.11 to me(maybe a hold broke off at the start?). If you cant figure out the start, I suggest pulling on the first two draws and enjoy the rest of the climb (its worth it).


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area : Adore (5.11a)
By: Fett When: Aug 3, 2010

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Comments: Climbed this last week and thought it must be contrived. I got suckered to the right in the chimney and thought it was about 9+ (still fun). I agree when you get to the gear it backs off and big jugs appear. The shortness and having to walk off doesn't make you want to come back and do it again.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Bingo Baby : Foreplay (5.11c)
By: Fett When: Jul 14, 2010

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Comments: The fist bolt is missing on this route. The start was harder than it looked and took a grounder with the second bolt in my face (good thing its a flat landing). Be solid at the start or bring a stick clip.


Location: UT : Cedar City : Three Peaks : Lap Crack (V-easy) : Photo
By: Fett When: Jul 14, 2010

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Comments: Is that Aron Ralston? Still climbing hard with only one arm.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : Simpson Rock : Stupid Sexy Flanders (5.12c) : Photo
By: Fett When: Jul 12, 2010

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Comments: Soft for the grade if you are wearing Flanders outfit (squeak squeak)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Main : Fortress (5.11a)
By: Fett When: Jun 3, 2010

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Comments: Is the bolt at the top of the pitch on route or is that for something different? Thats the way I have been doing it. Ferg classic IMO

For something different start in the hand crack on fortress then when close to the pin go right to fire and brimstone and finish on another sweet hand crack. It adds more hand jams with a lot of 5.10 climbing.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aguaworld : T.H.C (5.12a)
By: Fett When: May 27, 2010

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Comments: Thanks for the quick post guys. I was hoping mp was wrong because it would have been my first 12a onsight but still a fun climb whatever the grade. Most of the route looks like a lot of shale is mixed in with the quartzite for a chossy feeling (not that chossy) but the climbing is pretty fun 5.9ish climbing. After the ledge towards the end is perfect quartzite. So is it just the grades that are switched or is it the names too?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aguaworld : T.H.C (5.12a)
By: Fett When: May 27, 2010

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Comments: FYI the book says THC is the bolted line to the right. Seemed soft for 12a but dont think it was 11b either. I didnt climb the left line so cant compare.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Speed Trap : Speed Trap (5.12b/c)
By: Fett When: May 23, 2010

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Comments: The last 15-20 feet feels like 2 V4 moves with some good crimps in between. The Gaston move is hard to balance and taxing. Good clipping stances... fun stuff. Seems like it would be hard for shorter people


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Unknown (5.12-)
By: Fett When: May 7, 2010

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Comments: Fun route with solid rock up most of the way. Sounds like a different route for sure. The toilet crack right that I climbed went like this...

Pitch 1. Climb a corner with tight hands into a chimney. Get way inside and jam out to the left into a corner, lie back and finger lock to chain anchors. Hard 5.8

Pitch 2. Wide hands to fist corner to bolted anchors 5.8

Pitch 3. Climb the wide crack. It spits you outs, make some moves, and sucks you in the toilet. Inch your way out, jam and crimp... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Bourbon Street (5.8) : Photo
By: Fett When: May 2, 2010

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Comments: I thought it was about 10+ or 11- and was hard to protect, took micro cams and pnuts. The crux was getting in and out of this weird pod (just below me in the photo) rock quality wasnt the best either. I didnt mean to climb this var. but I got tunnel vison and didnt realize I was off route until I was in the crux and committed to finish what I got myself into. Was a great adventure with route finding being the crux for me LOL. At the top of this pitch there was a huge chuckawalla lizard hanging... more >>


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