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Member Since: Oct 23, 2006
Last Visit: 6 days ago
Contact FCJohn

Point Rank: # 1,643
Total Points: 386
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
15 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has FCJohn been climbing?


All 562 | Routes 20 | Areas 1 | Photos 27 | Page Improvements | Comments 36 | Posts 61 | Stars 381 | Ratings 36
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Contributed Comments


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Levitation 29 (5.11)
By: FCJohn When: Apr 4, 2012

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Comments: We parked at the old Oak Creek Campground, took the creek to the pine trees, then directly up the slabs. Took us about 3 hours. We took a few wrong turns at various forks in the trail coming from the road which caused us to zig zag back and forth through the wash. I figured that we could have shaved off at least 30 minutes if we parked on the loop road and knew the trail. The route had fantastic position, but honestly didn't live up to the hype. Pitch 2 was fun movement, but chossy.... Happy w... more >>

Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : The Grasshopper Wall : Esplanada (5.12d)
By: FCJohn When: Aug 18, 2010

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Comments: Felt AT LEAST one (maybe 2) letter grade harder than EKV. Super sequency!

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Dynamometer (5.11b)
By: FCJohn When: Aug 5, 2010

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Comments: Don't be misled, it can be done onsight static if you look around for the right hands and feet. Supplemented the draws with a #2 Camalot and grey #00 Mastercam.

Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Whiny Baby Wall : The Cloud Peak Vista Traver... (5.11a)
By: FCJohn When: Jul 30, 2010

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Comments: Buster -

Come'on -- you can do better than this. Location, bolts, etc

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Land of Ra (5.11a)
By: FCJohn When: Jun 25, 2010

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Comments: Made the same mistakes as Gregg Russo.

Clipped the first three bolts and while staring into the sun climbed up past the 4th bolt while following the natural line of gear placements. Pulled over the two bulges(10-) and then traversed right back to bolt 4 or 5 but encountered heinous rope drag. Climbed back to the arete and ran it out over moderate (but run out) terrain to the bolted anchor. Keeping true to the route would have trended up and right more than seems logical from the 3rd bolt.
... more >>

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : Tour de Poudre (5.12b/c)
By: FCJohn When: Jun 16, 2010

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Comments: Second pitch is 12- climbing to a thin, 12c, show stopper crux at the last bolt.

Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Shear Strength (5.11)
By: FCJohn When: Jun 7, 2010

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Comments: Very Cool slab/tips climbing leads to a cruxy heady last move. Reminded me of the moves on Eldo's Superslab.

Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Photo
By: FCJohn When: Jan 13, 2010

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Comments: Great composure Jeff!

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : T2 (5.10d R)
By: FCJohn When: Oct 10, 2009

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Comments: I'm glad that Erickson concluded that the start of this is considerably more difficult than the given 10d rating after the boulder washed away.

I thought the moves off of the ramp and past the pin were mid 11 with bad fall potential if you blow the moves.

The pin can be stick clipped from the ramp to protect the opening moves.

One final note, Ivan's gear beta is down right ridiculous. It's going to do nothing to keep you from decking or getting injured. At best it will prevent your broken... more >>

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Photo
By: FCJohn When: Aug 31, 2009

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Comments: Nice picture.

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Run Like Hell (5.10) : Photo
By: FCJohn When: Aug 21, 2009

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Comments: You're Hawt...

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Photo
By: FCJohn When: Aug 13, 2009

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Comments: Great shot, Dusty!

Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull : Skull and Bones (5.10c)
By: FCJohn When: Jun 15, 2009

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Comments: I was on this route for the second time in 4 days today.
There appears to be some exfoliated flakes that have come off of the crux of this pitch. Blasting straight up the bolt line was *wicked* hard at 11/12ish. While a bit contrived, the route can be held at the grade by climbing into the dihedral for a short bit, but you risk a face full of Poison Ivy. Which is worth noting....the Poison Ivy is extremely lush this year due to all of the rain we've been having.

Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crimpfest Wall : Season Opener (5.11c)
By: FCJohn When: Jun 8, 2009

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Comments: This is a great route. The first crux, bulge, mantle move was fairly straight forward and the route had a few mid 11 cruxes up high on the roof. Its fun sustained climbing all the way until the top! Do this route!

Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : Scratchy Face (5.10d)
By: FCJohn When: Jun 7, 2009

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Comments: Based on the 10a rating in Tod's guidebook, we thought this was the biggest sandbag in the history of climbing. Good to see that the consensus on MP.com calls this route a bit harder. Thought the slabbly headwall on this pitch was more difficult than the 11s on Crimpfest. I would call pulling the roof solid at the grade for 10a

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Cosmic Thing (5.12b)
By: FCJohn When: Dec 8, 2008

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Comments: 2 star route at best. The rap anchors are about 6 feet too high on this route.

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Pigs In Space (5.10+) : Photo
By: FCJohn When: Aug 13, 2008

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Comments: I don't remember this....

Location: Stefanie Van Wychen : Climbing Pics : Photo
By: FCJohn When: Aug 6, 2008

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Comments: Do you have a permit for those things?

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Fat City Crack (5.10c)
By: FCJohn When: Jul 11, 2008

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Comments: I'm with folks above, I thought that the .10 finger crack at the start of P2 was more sustained, difficult and nerve racking than any of moves getting up to and pulling the roof. A outstanding outing never the less. The finger crack eats up nuts and Aliens in the pin scars.

Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Photo
By: FCJohn When: May 2, 2008

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Comments: Awesome Pic.

Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Yellow Brick Road (5.10b)
By: FCJohn When: Apr 30, 2008

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Comments: This route was fantastic.

I almost got sandbagged into leaving all of the gear at the 2nd set of anchors and just climbing on draws. After the first two gear pitches. A set of 14 draws, stoppers and small TCUs should get you through the upper pitches, which were AWESOME! Do this route now.

Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: FCJohn When: Apr 30, 2008

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Comments: Holy Smokes! This climb delivers a little bit of something for everyone! Leave the #4 camalot at home, you don't need it.
The chimney pitches were just the price of admission for the unbelievable upper pitches.

Do not underestimate the descent.... We did car to car in 12 hours and I'm confident that we spent 3 hours of that on the descent.

~Team Gold Bond

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Diffraction (5.10a/b)
By: FCJohn When: Nov 4, 2007

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Comments: Not as spicy as others have said. Found the route quite protectable. Easy climbing for the first 20 ft up the slab to 15 ft of fun 5.10- to 5.9 climbing to the base of Meta.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Metamorphosis (5.10a)
By: FCJohn When: Oct 12, 2007

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Comments: ABSOLUTELY CLASSIC!!! This might be the finest face pitch of 10 in the Canyon. It's an exercise in mind control and keeping a cool head way above marginal gear. The bolts provide a little bit of assurance that you won't deck if you come off, but Meta is classic Eldo spice in the most delicious and tasty way!

BETA: Look carefully for the third bolt before entering the crux sequence...I somehow missed and climbed way past the cammo'd third bolt on while zoned out on the moves. But did find a... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: FCJohn When: Oct 7, 2007

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Comments: Did this route with Danny I. as a Rosy linkup we're dubbing "Rosy Alice". Alice is the perfect 5.8 route for one who is a comfortable 5.10 leader in Eldo. The moves pulling the roofs on both pitches were blind and committing and there was fairly regular 20-30 ft run out sections. The route was easily done to the top of the saddle in two pitches with good runners.

Note: The bees/wasps were in full effect as 10/7 at the 1st belay.

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