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Location: General Climbing : Name that Climb Dec 2011 : Post : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easy. Johnny Quest.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Dire Straits Rock : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Apr 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route. Tough, crimpy.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : ... : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Mar 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Michael was a great guy. His comments after this solo were kind of funny. His wife was so impressed afterward that she asked him to take out the trash.
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Location: CA : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Feb 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice shot Blitzo. Like the detail in the foreground even though it's backlit.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Crack-a-Go-Go (5.11c PG13)
By: Fat Dad When: Feb 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Never heard the Crack of no pro remark, even as far back as the late 70s when I first started climbing there. The pro is there even with passive gear, just that much harder to place.
BTW, Livesey and Fawcett originally rated this .10+. Livesey wrote about this climb and others in an old Mountain magazine article titled "Arms Like Flies", a reference to the visiting Brits sometimes skinny physique when compared to some of the burly Americans.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Right of the Escalator : Hair Lip (5.10a)
By: Fat Dad When: Jan 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have whipped off this--making the traverse straight out of the crack as someone up thread mentioned. It was reachy and I more or less fell backward, landed on my back in the Hot Buttered Rump dihedral (shirtless of course) and slid down several more feet thanks to a inattentive belay. My rope was fine though I was scraped up. So, yes, the fall isn't pretty but certainly not as dire as has been suggested.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Jan 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the classic climbing shots of all time.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : El Cracko Diablo (5.10a)
By: Fat Dad When: Jan 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux is definitely at the top. If you're struggling hard on the bottom portion, you're doing it wrong. I found the small cams that protect the crux a little worrisome but it's all there if you commit.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : The Shield (5.8 A3 PG13)
By: Fat Dad When: Jul 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Re climbing this as cleanly as possible: I did it in '91 and we had only six sawed offs, only half of which we actually used per pitch, and even then only on a few pitches on the headwall. They were handy when needed, but even old school TCUs worked pretty well in most pins scars. I imagine Aliens, C3s or Totem cams would be the ticket.
I've heard stories of much more recent ascents where folks nailed, though admitted that they did so more because they kind of freaked with the exposure. Fo... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Freeblast (5.11) : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Apr 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, that's crazy! The most parties I've ever seen on Freeblast have been two, and we were one of them. I look at photos like this and think 'why bother'?
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Ahab (5.10a)
By: Fat Dad When: Mar 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Royal Robbins used to solo this in a pair of Tretorns. We are not worthy.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : West Chimney (5.6)
By: Fat Dad When: Mar 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I always found the SE Corner to be the mellowest downclimb (although I haven't checked this out).
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Sorcerer's Apprentice (5.11a R)
By: Fat Dad When: Oct 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's ample description of this route elsewhere. She's just adding some info the typos don't provide. That's for including this route. Now, if someone will just add some info on Mr. Kamps (.11b).
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Hermit Spires : Pondo Pete (5.10a)
By: Fat Dad When: Jul 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Named after the late owner of the Ponderosa, Pete Brewer.
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Windjammer (5.10 R)
By: Fat Dad When: Jul 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A couple of corrections to the route description. First, the second pitch is only 5.8 or so, not 5.10, but runout in true Dome Rock style. The third pitch also has a short section of 5.8 past a bolt right off the belay and then eases off considerable to the top (no pro though). Finally, as Murf suggested, the second should be solid at the grade as, since the first pitch meanders so much, weighting the rope might pull your tie-offs from a side or upward direction and possibly pull them off the... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : Left Ski Track (5.6)
By: Fat Dad When: May 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: "...i cant imagine climbing here without tricams."
The route has been climbed countless times since 1947, well before the advent of tricams. It's great that you thought they worked well on this route, but this route protects great with just about any type of passive gear or cams.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Leaning Tower : West Face (5.7 C2) : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: May 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amen to that. I did that ropeless when I was young and stupid (and then downclimbed it after my partner freaked cleaning the first pitch!). Dicey stuff.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : The Super Dome : The Last Unicorn (5.11a R)
By: Fat Dad When: May 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hiked back in there probably 12-15 years ago, and even then my partner and I looked at the bolts and kind of turned away in digust, which is saying something given I had been raised running it on quarter inchers at Suicide, etc. Pity, since the route looks awesome.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Higher Cathedral Rock : Northeast Buttress (5.9+ PG13)
By: Fat Dad When: Apr 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best grade IV in the Valley.
Burly for its rating for sure, but just for some perspective, when we were hanging out at the belay at the top of pitch 5, Werner Braun comes soloing by, moving like it's 5.3.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Apr 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's not Driving South. No slabby boulder off to the left of the crack, which also doesn't have a lip on it's R. edge like in the photo.
I did have a similar moment in the photo the day after the 1980 or '81 bouldering contest at Santee. In fact, when I first saw this photo, I initially thought it was a picture of that day, except I and my buddy, Eric Held, weren't in it.
Eric and I throw up a rope on Driving South, flail a few times, when through the bushes come Bachar, Leclinski, Mari,... more >>
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Location: General Climbing : Expired thread, 2011 editio... : Post : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Apr 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Atlantis. What do I win?
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Feb 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, you've done a really amazing job of making that hard to recognize. Is that the fourth or fifth pitch?
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b)
By: Fat Dad When: Jan 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Given the historical nature of this route, the page should be amended to include the names of the first ascent party: Royal Robbins, Mike Sherrick and Jerry Gallwas. Climbed over five days, starting on June 24, 1957. Rated the first Grade VI in North America, though subsequently downgraded to a Grade V. The first ascent party was greeted at the top by Warren Harding, who had made an earlier attempt and was ready to try again with Mark Powell and Bill "Dolt" Feuerer before Robbins and party s... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Pollen Grains / Lidija Boul...
By: Fat Dad When: Jan 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm assuming they were named for/by Lidja Painhiker (sp?).
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