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Member Since: Nov 9, 2007
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Areas = 15
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All 1313 | Routes | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvments | Comments 98 | Posts 1148 | Stars 59 | Ratings 7
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Doug Scott crawling down the Ogre.

Doug Scott crawling down the Ogre.

General Climbing : Best climbing photo EVER! : Post

Mar 4, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Igor Unchained (5.9+)
By: Fat Dad When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Under the category of 'ratings are totally subjective', I can't imagine how someone would find the last pitch harder than the first two, particularly the second. The first pitch is pretty straightforward, just a little weird in places. But the second, with the awkward wide bulge and the thin face moves to the belay I found substantially harder than anything on the third pitch. There, if you don't have a solid edge or a bomber jam, you aren't looking hard enough.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Pirate's Cove : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: May 15, 2014

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Comments: While that looks terrific, I still really like our Pirate's Cove out here.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cascade Area : Cascade Falls - Upper : The Phoenix (5.13a)
By: Fat Dad When: Jan 18, 2014

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Comments: It's odd this page has a pic of Ray Jardine on the FA (1977) but then reports Mark Hudon as doing the FA a year later.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Supercrack of the Desert (5.10) : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: Wow, look how rounded the edges of that crack have gotten.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Paradise Lost (5.10a PG13)
By: Fat Dad When: Jan 8, 2014

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Comments: This a great but underrated route. The runout nature of pitch 2 (pro for which used to consist only of a hammered in stopper) will keep most people from progressing further. I'm sure someone out there knows if that the pro on that pitch has been remedied. Maybe not 4 stars, but definitely 3.5.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Hermit Spires : South Face (5.8 R)
By: Fat Dad When: Nov 15, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for adding this. A great route and one of the more moderate climbs in the Needles vicinity.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Unknown, South of Tree Rout... (5.9)
By: Fat Dad When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: A better start to Anti-Jello, and fun, but pretty contrived. Apart from a 5.9 move at the very start (which can be made easier by stepping off a large flake to the right), I'd say the climbing is pretty standard 5.8. It can be rapped or TR'ed with a 60 m.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Imaginary Voyage (5.9-)
By: Fat Dad When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: This may be a little quibbling, but I think there are a couple of short sections that felt like pretty standard 5.9: the exit moves at the top of the 4th and transitioning from the wide crack to the chimney on the 5th. Also, on the 4th pitch, we climbed straight up from the grassy crack to reach the thin crack/flake that parallels the chimney to the left. Where the crack starts petering out it's easy to step left and down on jugs into the left crack above the chimney portion. You'll have to ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : IRS Wall : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Aug 1, 2013

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Comments: Wow, cool shot. Seen lots of stuff at Josh: bighorn, rosy boa, but never a ringtail.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River
By: Fat Dad When: Jul 23, 2013

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Comments: I was at the Ponderosa the last week of June and didn't see the guide hanging on the wall where it formerly was. Did they move it behind the counter?


Location: General Climbing : Name that Climb Dec 2011 : Post : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: Easy. Johnny Quest.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Dire Straits Rock : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: Good route. Tough, crimpy.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : ... : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Mar 20, 2013

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Comments: Michael was a great guy. His comments after this solo were kind of funny. His wife was so impressed afterward that she asked him to take out the trash.


Location: CA : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Feb 26, 2013

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Comments: Nice shot Blitzo. Like the detail in the foreground even though it's backlit.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Crack-a-Go-Go (5.11c PG13)
By: Fat Dad When: Feb 11, 2013

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Comments: Never heard the Crack of no pro remark, even as far back as the late 70s when I first started climbing there. The pro is there even with passive gear, just that much harder to place.

BTW, Livesey and Fawcett originally rated this .10+. Livesey wrote about this climb and others in an old Mountain magazine article titled "Arms Like Flies", a reference to the visiting Brits sometimes skinny physique when compared to some of the burly Americans.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Right of the Escalator : Hair Lip (5.10a)
By: Fat Dad When: Jan 29, 2013

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Comments: I have whipped off this--making the traverse straight out of the crack as someone up thread mentioned. It was reachy and I more or less fell backward, landed on my back in the Hot Buttered Rump dihedral (shirtless of course) and slid down several more feet thanks to a inattentive belay. My rope was fine though I was scraped up. So, yes, the fall isn't pretty but certainly not as dire as has been suggested.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Jan 17, 2013

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Comments: One of the classic climbing shots of all time.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : El Cracko Diablo (5.10a)
By: Fat Dad When: Jan 11, 2013

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Comments: The crux is definitely at the top. If you're struggling hard on the bottom portion, you're doing it wrong. I found the small cams that protect the crux a little worrisome but it's all there if you commit.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : The Shield (5.8 A3 PG13)
By: Fat Dad When: Jul 18, 2012

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Comments: Re climbing this as cleanly as possible: I did it in '91 and we had only six sawed offs, only half of which we actually used per pitch, and even then only on a few pitches on the headwall. They were handy when needed, but even old school TCUs worked pretty well in most pins scars. I imagine Aliens, C3s or Totem cams would be the ticket.

I've heard stories of much more recent ascents where folks nailed, though admitted that they did so more because they kind of freaked with the exposure. Fo... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Freeblast (5.11) : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Apr 4, 2012

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Comments: Wow, that's crazy! The most parties I've ever seen on Freeblast have been two, and we were one of them. I look at photos like this and think 'why bother'?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Ahab (5.10a)
By: Fat Dad When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: Royal Robbins used to solo this in a pair of Tretorns. We are not worthy.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : West Chimney (5.6)
By: Fat Dad When: Mar 7, 2012

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Comments: I always found the SE Corner to be the mellowest downclimb (although I haven't checked this out).


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Sorcerer's Apprentice (5.11a R)
By: Fat Dad When: Oct 14, 2011

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Comments: There's ample description of this route elsewhere. She's just adding some info the typos don't provide. That's for including this route. Now, if someone will just add some info on Mr. Kamps (.11b).


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Hermit Spires : Pondo Pete (5.10a)
By: Fat Dad When: Jul 19, 2011

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Comments: Named after the late owner of the Ponderosa, Pete Brewer.


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