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Member Since: Nov 9, 2007
Last Visit: moments ago
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Point Rank: # 3,628
Total Points: 129
Last Year: 31
Last 30 Days: 10
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1416 | Routes | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 109 | Posts 1228 | Stars 64 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
You can see the dihedral on the second pitch of Fa...

You can see the dihedral on the second pitch of Fancy Free, that would probably be sunny earlier in the day, and then Spooky all sun.

Southern California : Needles road open? : Post

Nov 25, 2014

Here's Witch.

Here's Witch.

Southern California : Needles road open? : Post

Nov 25, 2014

South Face topo

South Face topo

CA : Southern Sierra : ... : South Face (5.9 PG13)

Sep 4, 2014

Doug Scott crawling down the Ogre.

Doug Scott crawling down the Ogre.

General Climbing : Best climbing photo EVER! : Post

Mar 4, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Whodunit (5.9) : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: Wow! And I used to snicker when my grandma warned me about 'snakes on the rocks'...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : IRS Wall : Mr. Bunny's Refund Check (5.10a)
By: Fat Dad When: Nov 4, 2014

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Comments: I remember this being a fun and engaging route. Far better than one star (which in Josh can mean an unpleasant grain fest).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : More Funky than Monkey Rock : More Monkey than Funky (5.11b)
By: Fat Dad When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: ^^^
Wow, that dude is lucky he didn't crack his melon on the lip. No idea how he could have fallen from there. There's a tricky move getting established around the lip (that I think is the actually crux of the route, not the roof), but once you've done that, it's pretty mellow to the top. Guess it ain't over till it's over.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Pirate's Cove (aka The Beac...
By: Fat Dad When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: Comments like the one above are just false, or the guy is just having some fun spewing. Although climbing at The Beach is very condition dependent (lots of posts saying just that), the rock is generally good quality. There are some places in the tall, middle portion of the cliff that are grainier and looser, but that's pretty obvious once you get there. Let's put it this way. I started climbing there more than 30 yrs. ago and, although it's sandstone, the holds on really popular climbs like ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Iceberg Boulder : ... : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Oct 10, 2014

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Comments: I like dad's expression down below. I think my kids would dig this as well.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Whitney : Cardiovascular Seizure (5.10+)
By: Fat Dad When: Oct 10, 2014

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Comments: Wow, way to dig out an obscure climb. I always wondered where this route went. Was this in a more recent guide? The only place I ever read an account of it was a typically vague description in an old AAJ. FA: Galen Rowell and I think Vern Clevenger. Don't quote me on the latter though.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Ghetto Simulator : Ghetto Simulator (V2)
By: Fat Dad When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: "Once upon a time, when I first did this problem I would have given it 3 stars, no doubt it was good and fun. However in the two times I've done it in the last few years it was absurdly crowded and greasy and for me that does not leave me feeling warm and fuzzy. So yes I can say that in my opinion those things detract from the problem."

I think this is a good problem--almost a mini route--but I did back about the time LeeAB did when it was still fairly pristine. In fact, it wasn't even in the ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Smooth Sole Wall : Smooth Sole Wall - Right Si... : The Fiend (5.9 R)
By: Fat Dad When: Oct 1, 2014

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Comments: I really like this route. I'm surprised it only has two stars. I think it's equal in quality to most of the other routes on the wall. I know some fret about the move to the first bolt, but it's pretty standard Suicide-type climbing.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : South Face (5.9 PG13)
By: Fat Dad When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: I've posted a marked up topo from the old guide, which we found to be pretty accurate. A great route. Not as classic as, say, Igor or Thin Ice, but a great route all the same. Adventurous and worth a little effort. Some notes on our climb.

Pitch 1: We saw another party on what we assumed was the first pitch, which they later told us was the first pitch of the S Crack. Either way, it was simple to traverse over to the second pitch of the South Face. Having said that, that's probably evide... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Negro Girls (5.9 R)
By: Fat Dad When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: Poorly named route.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Boulder 1 : The Nose (V-easy)
By: Fat Dad When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: This used to be rated 5.6 in the old guide. If this is VO then the Three Pigs is a V2.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Igor Unchained (5.9+)
By: Fat Dad When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Under the category of 'ratings are totally subjective', I can't imagine how someone would find the last pitch harder than the first two, particularly the second. The first pitch is pretty straightforward, just a little weird in places. But the second, with the awkward wide bulge and the thin face moves to the belay I found substantially harder than anything on the third pitch. There, if you don't have a solid edge or a bomber jam, you aren't looking hard enough.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Pirate's Cove : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: May 15, 2014

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Comments: While that looks terrific, I still really like our Pirate's Cove out here.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cascade Area : Cascade Falls - Upper : The Phoenix (5.13a)
By: Fat Dad When: Jan 18, 2014

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Comments: It's odd this page has a pic of Ray Jardine on the FA (1977) but then reports Mark Hudon as doing the FA a year later.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Supercrack of the Desert (5.10) : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: Wow, look how rounded the edges of that crack have gotten.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Paradise Lost (5.10a PG13)
By: Fat Dad When: Jan 8, 2014

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Comments: This a great but underrated route. The runout nature of pitch 2 (pro for which used to consist only of a hammered in stopper) will keep most people from progressing further. I'm sure someone out there knows if that the pro on that pitch has been remedied. Maybe not 4 stars, but definitely 3.5.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Hermit Spires : South Face (5.8 R)
By: Fat Dad When: Nov 15, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for adding this. A great route and one of the more moderate climbs in the Needles vicinity.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Unknown, South of Tree Rout... (5.9)
By: Fat Dad When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: A better start to Anti-Jello, and fun, but pretty contrived. Apart from a 5.9 move at the very start (which can be made easier by stepping off a large flake to the right), I'd say the climbing is pretty standard 5.8. It can be rapped or TR'ed with a 60 m.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Imaginary Voyage (5.9-)
By: Fat Dad When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: This may be a little quibbling, but I think there are a couple of short sections that felt like pretty standard 5.9: the exit moves at the top of the 4th and transitioning from the wide crack to the chimney on the 5th. Also, on the 4th pitch, we climbed straight up from the grassy crack to reach the thin crack/flake that parallels the chimney to the left. Where the crack starts petering out it's easy to step left and down on jugs into the left crack above the chimney portion. You'll have to ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : IRS Wall : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Aug 1, 2013

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Comments: Wow, cool shot. Seen lots of stuff at Josh: bighorn, rosy boa, but never a ringtail.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River
By: Fat Dad When: Jul 23, 2013

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Comments: I was at the Ponderosa the last week of June and didn't see the guide hanging on the wall where it formerly was. Did they move it behind the counter?


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