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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Gamma (5.3)
By: farkas.time When: Jul 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The traverse is easy (5.0), but unprotected. British grading puts this route at S 4a. An all around enjoyable beginner piece. Good practice for double ropes.
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Sickle Buttress (5.3)
By: farkas.time When: Jul 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pictured here is somebody climbing Sickle Buttress DIRECT (VS 5a =~ 5.9). The 5.3 route trends right about 1/3 up, rather than going straight to the top.
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Valkyrie (5.9+)
By: farkas.time When: Jul 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: pretty hard for HVS 5a I thought. Awkward start too. Pumpy and a bit scary.
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Embankment 1 (5.10d)
By: farkas.time When: Jul 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did first pitch only. Wow. That was awkward!
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Great Portland Steet (5.9)
By: farkas.time When: Jun 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very difficult start (protected by a good wire) leads to DELICIOUS climbing above.
"What are you yelling about? Are you OK? Did you get something stuck?" Mo yells up to me. "I'm just having soo much fun!!" I reply!
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : The Knight's Move (5.9)
By: farkas.time When: Jun 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quite good. Tall for Burbage North with good movement and well protected crux moves.
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Robin Hood's Right-Hand But... (5.6)
By: farkas.time When: Jun 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: big gear.
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Heaven Crack (5.5)
By: farkas.time When: Jun 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: excellent first lead. endless pro. easy climbing, but not thoughtless. very worthwhile.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : Eowyn (5.4)
By: farkas.time When: May 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: p1 is harder (5.5/5.6), awkward, short, run-out, hard to protect, and all around worthless except as access to p2. It should be lead with confidence due to ground-fall potential.
p2 is sustained and enjoyable 5.4 climbing with good pro.
Thanks, JSW, for putting up this description.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : MF (5.9)
By: farkas.time When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: My leader accidentally did the variation that goes straight up the roof, then up to the anchors, without stepping out right. Following him, I did the canonical roof route, but then immediately had to traverse left on the edgey face with thin feet to collect his pro up the variation. This little variation turned out to be totaly awesome, but quite hard. I'm not familiar with what harder Gunks grades feel like, but I would put this at 10+/11-, with some really fun, tensiony moves from thin crimps ... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Something Interesting (5.7+)
By: farkas.time When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: p1 is long and great. p2 is short, but with some sweeet movement.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Strictly From Nowhere (5.7)
By: farkas.time When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Holy amazing climb. A MUST do.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Horseman (5.5)
By: farkas.time When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent, excellent moderate climb. Pro is abundant, but tricky, and crux is a little committing, so I wouldn't recommend for a beginner lead, despite the grade.
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Location: VT : Jamaica
By: farkas.time When: May 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: My brother and I found this area through local knowledge, which claims that there are some good bouldering problems and top-ropes here. We went with low expectations, but found a nice, medium-short crag with excellent fine schist or maybe granite, and we decided to start leading on it. We got shut down by I Want My Mommy and I Want My Mommy Direct (see photos), which have difficult and poorly protected crux moves (10+/11), but found Mother's Day quite enjoyable!
In general, this area is underde... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Standard Route (5.7+)
By: farkas.time When: May 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climb. Crux at start of p2 is great, but rest of climb is a bit dull. Spice it up by climbing off immediately to the left of the V-ramp that starts p1 - 5.7G as opposed to 5.5 or 5.6. Both pitches have excellent pro across the range to 3". The slightly slabby face at the very end looks wicked fun but clearly run out, so I'm scared -- probably 5.9?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : The Owl (5.7)
By: farkas.time When: May 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tonnes of fun. Excellent pro. Great fist jamming and some awesome committing moves. Zig-zaggy route, so draw placement and extension were tricky. Nuts and cams, varied to 3". We did 3 pitches to avoid rope drag at the cruxes. This felt pretty natural, except the 3rd pitch was quite short. Communication was difficult on this route (and all of the Dome), especially with a rushing river.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : East Slab (5.6)
By: farkas.time When: Apr 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route with varied climbing. It has good jams, a cool roof crank, some tenuous slab, and vertical stemming. Don't let the 5.6 fool you -- this rock is stout. I've climbed comparable 8s, and there's a short runout section that is spooky. The gear placements are available but tricky -- this is not a good beginner lead. Furthermore, the leader goes out of view of the belay almost immediately, and even if you do it in two pitches, communication will likely have to be done with the rop... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Burros Don't Gamble (5.10c)
By: farkas.time When: Apr 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun crux after 1st bolt, so a bit spooky, but safe. Climbing eases up considerably (5.8) by 4th bolt.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Rebel Without a Pause (5.11a)
By: farkas.time When: Apr 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Big moves on good holds. A bit overhung, so pumpy. Good for trying hard and falling. Short.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Great Red Book Rock : Great Red Book (5.8)
By: farkas.time When: Apr 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun. Excellent and varied climbing on an awesome landscape feature.
I found pro a bit difficult on p1, so it felt harder than 5.7. Good coverage around 1" is recommended.
Pro on p2 is excellent and with variable size, and felt easier than 5.8. The slab at the top is very run out, but 5.4 or 5.5. I think this would be a good beginner intro to the grade, as long as the runout slab isn't horribly intimidating.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Break On Through to Chianti (5.8+)
By: farkas.time When: Mar 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great climb. I like the first pitch of BOT better than that of Chianti. Good pro the whole way. There are rap rings from the tree at the top of P1, but our 60m rope didn't make it to the ledge -- best just finish it anyway!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Dihedral One (5.7)
By: farkas.time When: Sep 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good fun! Good holds, good stemming, decent exposure, excellent pro (med-to-large cams), and very easy for the grade. A good beginner trad lead.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Second Buttress : Pine Tree Route (5.5)
By: farkas.time When: Aug 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. Pro is abundant, but placements can be tricky since the cracks are pretty irregular. Bigger gear than recommended can be useful-- I easily used both my #3 and #4 BD C4s.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : North Face Center (5.7)
By: farkas.time When: Aug 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent climb. First pitch is sustained fun. Second is awesome, but I was very scared. I recommend doubles in larger cams (#2BD, I think) for the zig-zag...that or fiddle with hexes (blah). I didn't have cams and felt pure terror as I dashed for the top. Also, confidence with hand and fist jams is a plus. This was harder than 5.7 for me.
I don't recommend doing it in one pitch -- starting up the zig-zag with rope drag would be a...drag.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Twofers (5.8)
By: farkas.time When: Aug 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good fun! Good pro! Good good!
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