Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : The Left Side (5.12a)
By: Evan Stevens When: Jul 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Double up on the #4 camalots for sure, unless you like to run it out for a LONG ways. The OW is cheatable, so you don't really have to climb that style, but its more like 10- up there. This pitch used to be rated 11+, and is definitely soft for 12-, especially if you know how to jam!
|
Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Fre... (5.12d)
By: Evan Stevens When: Nov 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fixed nut is no longer there, you Can NOT rap the route with a 70m rope now. Leaving behind a fixed nut like that on an aid climb won't last long, and didn't...this is 2 weeks later!
|
Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Photo
By: Evan Stevens When: Jun 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is STEEP and leaning, so you don't come close to your belayer...she had bigger things to worry about, like holding the brake rope while getting slammed into the wall, which is the next photo in the sequence!
|
Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Snake (5.9)
By: Evan Stevens When: Jun 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Snake is an old, old classic, not from Jeff, et al 2001! Jeff has contributed a ton to Squamish climbing, but this one was established by R. Willmott and P. Botta in 62 (as per the guidebook.)
|
Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Cruel Shoes (5.10d)
By: Evan Stevens When: Jun 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: P. 5 the 5.9 part definitely has a bad fall potential, and I think warrants the R, you do NOT want to fall, you would hit a slab, but it is not that bad, the moves get easier as you get further out from your gear. Just a friendly heads up...
|
Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Roman Chimneys (5.11d)
By: Evan Stevens When: Jun 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh yeah, the REAL Grand Wall/Uwall finish! You must do it at least once to say you have climbed the Grand Wall, and understand why some chuckleheads wanted to blow up Bellygood Ledge back in the day to keep people from avoiding these pitches!
One new #4 camalot will probably see you through if you don't mind walking it up.
You can avoid the 11d with a 10dR pitch...dirty and scary.
|
Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : The Daily Planet (5.12a)
By: Evan Stevens When: Jun 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Daily Planet is one of the 'easy' hardman routes...and it now goes to the top of the Sheriff's Badge via a half cleaned new route called the 'Fortress of Solitute'. Most people do the first pitch, and rap, but the next 2 pitches are great at 5.10b burly, and a wild 11a undercling pitch not to be missed. Fortress of solitude breaks off left of this pitch. Pitch 4 is a seldom done 12b face pitch.
Wires and cams to 2.5" for the first pitch and some 3-4" gear for the 2nd pitch. You can rap the f... more >>
|
Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : Nightmare Rock
By: Evan Stevens When: Jun 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't be fooled...only the bottom half of 2 or 3 routes stay dry in the rain, not the quality stuff up high!
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress : Peeler Face (Southeast and ... : The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Ro... (5.12c)
By: Evan Stevens When: May 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Route...watch for Poison Ivy at the start of the crux. 2nd pitch is a little spicy and sandbagged...bust some crux moves over your gear and don't fall, watch the kitty litter, 10++.
|
Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Fre... (5.12d)
By: Evan Stevens When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: In my opinion, he is missing a bit of gear on the rack beta...definitely want at least 2 .75 camalots, and at least (1) 2 camalot. I can't remember if you want a 3, but it would only be on the last 5.10 pitch, and you just styled so many 5.12 pitches, so be the hardman/woman that you just became and run it out - but that pitch feels hard at the end of the day! It is easy to stop the nutting pitch after 90' and belay at the bolted anchor and do a short half rope length top out pitch if you are ... more >>
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Standing Rock : The Regular Route (5.11c)
By: Evan Stevens When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yup, the crux hold snapped off about 3 or 4 years ago, but you can still free the route past it on the small holds that are left at a touch harder grade. I think the bolts are all good on that pitch now, but it has been a few years so I can't remember, but I wasn't scared to fall! One of the best desert towers, with a long bumpy approach, 3 hours each way of driving from Moab.
|
Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Midnight Run (5.12a/b)
By: Evan Stevens When: Sep 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Have you done this route? There is A LOT lacking from the description, and the route definitely warrants a "heads up" or PG13/R rating in certain spots. The first pitch off of milk run has broken quite a few holds since the FA and is climbed in quite an annoying way that is hard to clip the bolts. The rest of that pitch climbs some loose and scary rock and has sections of scarce protection. Other pitches of note have some serious cruxy climbing above your gear. Be prepared to climb at the g... more >>
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Good Times (5.11-)
By: Evan Stevens When: Sep 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Put up by Nick Martino, and named after his old van he lived in. FA in 2002?
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Serrator Crack (5.11a/b)
By: Evan Stevens When: Sep 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gotta give credit to Alan the Brit for putting this one up in 2002?
|
Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Pleasant Pheasant (5.10d)
By: Evan Stevens When: Sep 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: 4 Stars all the way. Granite sport climbing doesn't get much better!
|
Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Freeway (5.11c)
By: Evan Stevens When: Sep 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A few key variations to the beta here, which make this route even better.
p1: Skip it via the fixed line to the right.
p2 and p3: Link together no problem. p2 is 11a.
After the Autobahn (the traversing pitch above the roof) do the express lane finish, not the original, way better! Step down and right off the belay, but then up and then back left to the occasional bolt. 4 bolts in total where you need them, but 5.10- where there are no bolts. Heads up. Continue up the bolted face and ar... more >>
|
RSS Feed
