Contributed Comments |
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Location: AK : Southeastern Alaska/Coastal... : Juneau : Mendenhall Towers : Iron Curtian (5.12a) : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Dec 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: pretty impressive. Nice work
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Millstone : Private Hell (5.10a) : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Oct 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a great pattern in that rock!
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The North End : Kiddy Crack (5.7)
By: Evan1984 When: Jun 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good, fun route to warm up or wind down on. The lieback start is a somewhat thuggish crux, but good technique makes it over quickly. After the little ledge, thoughtful climbing takes you to the top.
PLEASE- protect the start before you set off. A slip on the start will have you falling either ankle or tailbone first into a nice pointed rock at the base. A .75 BD Camalot can very easily be placed high in the lieback crack from a stance before you set off. Keep a tight belay and ... more >>
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thin Air (5.6)
By: Evan1984 When: May 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: We surprisingly got this route to ourselves today, Memorial Day.
We did the traverse pitched but elected to rap(2 ropes) rather than climb the wet third pitch. Water is seeping from the corner down the face off of the first pin on the third pitch. Just FYI.
This is a great climb. The upper portions are also worthwhile.
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Location: Austin Baird : Bueno : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Apr 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: just tell her the thorny bushes at the bottom will break the fall.
Nice pic.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Monkey Face : Pioneer Route (5.7 C0)
By: Evan1984 When: Apr 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Common advice is to french free the bolt ladder on quickdraws. This works fine, but is strenuous.
Make sure that both partners are able to do this or bring ascenders for the second.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo... : ... : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Apr 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't you mean "terrors"?
I've got a pair, too.
Gotta love them
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Upper Washbowl Cliff : Northern Revival (5.12c PG13) : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Apr 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great shot:
great route
great aspect
great partner dynamics.
A++
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Trisstin's Tower : Regular Route (5.7 A1) : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Apr 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love the overkill of the locking biner in conjunction with the piece!
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Location: GA : Mount Yonah : Main Face : Stannard's Crack (5.8) : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Mar 3, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: that is about the coolest move on a 5.8 ever
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Jan 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: cause it's the 909
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : The Spider's Web : Wheelin N' Dealin (5.13c R) : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Jan 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm so happy for that helmet. Awesome shot!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Triple Direct (5.9 C1-) : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Jan 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thank you for the service!
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Location: Mike Lane : Misc. : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Jan 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: pull the roof, man, pull the roof!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Barker Dam Bouldering : Gunsmoke Area : ... : High Noon (V5)
By: Evan1984 When: Dec 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: +1 for a pad...at least for us roped up wimps
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holy Saturday : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good thing you got them at REI.
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Location: John Shultz : JAZZ : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Apparently, those Calif bears have learned to do everything except read.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Black Lung (5.8)
By: Evan1984 When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Been on this twice and chickened out and hung both times before easily pulling the crux.
My advice is to protect the crux from the stance. Then,do as I say, not as I do. Sack up and pull the move. It's over quickly. I can get a great #3 BD down a little low in the crux and a 1/.75 from the stance.
Just make sure to protect it.
EVan
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : Klingon (5.9 R)
By: Evan1984 When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are ample opportunities to sling things and place gear to back up the bolt. I always bring some long pieces of webbing to setting up Tr at Gibraltar
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