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A lovely chimney


Member Since: Jun 16, 2009
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 5,342
Total Points: 67
Last Year: 51
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Evan Riley been climbing?










Contributions


All 464 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 22 | Posts 50 | Stars 312 | Ratings 73

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Arch Rock : New Dimensions (5.11a)
By: Evan Riley When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: The best way to do this is in 2 pitches with a 70. P1 links the traditional first 3 pitches and P2 takes you to the top and through the crux. Hike to the top (4th) then down a gulley to the right (4th /5th) and rap off of a slung tree to the intermediate anchors.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Ambassadors of Funk (5.10b)
By: Evan Riley When: Dec 1, 2013

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Comments: Linked with Sweet & Sour. A 70 got me to a ledge 8'off the ground.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : West Wall : Magnum Force (5.10b)
By: Evan Riley When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: This thing would be great if it was climbed/cleaned up more. Some gardening may be required. Boulder problem is tough, protects well with a blue and purp TCUs.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Monkey Paws (5.12a)
By: Evan Riley When: Jul 27, 2013

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Comments: Great route, clean falls, great pro, just make sure you bring your offsets. A really good route to push the grade on.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : One Hand Clapping (5.9)
By: Evan Riley When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: Topped out in 2 70m pitches. Not quite rope stretches. For P1 belay above the slab below that weird corner crux thing. P2 goes all the way to the rap rings on the summit. When climbing P2 use double length runners (or 2 single length slings) on your pieces through the crux and it will go clean with little rope drag. We walked off. Would love some descent beta, the Manzanita thrash on the way down was hilarious.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Pea Soup (5.9)
By: Evan Riley When: Jul 19, 2013

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Comments: Heads up for the first 30'. An offset blue/purple MC protects the move from the first rail to the second rail and takes the edge off this thing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Devin's Dihedral (5.9+ R)
By: Evan Riley When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: This route can be zipped up with a blue/purple MC, a #0.75 C4 out left and the bolt. Best route at the crag.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Daff Dome, Main Area : Bearded Clam (5.11-)
By: Evan Riley When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: This climb is amazing. If it was in Super Taco it would get 10x the traffic. It is located on the right hand side on the standard approach to the West Crack area. It is easy to locate the route when walking to the west crack area by looking for the obvious dihedral and shiny chains of Cowabunga, the stout .12c immediately to the right of Bearded Clam. This is visible from the standard approach to the West Crack area.

The crux (only section of 11, ~2 moves) is well protected by a good bolt,... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area : Hari-Kiri (5.10a)
By: Evan Riley When: Jun 17, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this June 2013. No yellow jackets although be careful when climbing this in the future. Climb slow and stop and look / listen when climbing to ensure they haven't returned.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : West Wall : The Gamoke (5.10b)
By: Evan Riley When: May 25, 2013

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Comments: Do this in 2 pitches with a 70m. The first pitch is actually quite nice. Traverse over to the start of the money pitch before you build an anchor. A #2 and #4 protect the traverse well for your follower, you'll want a red C4 for your anchor (bring 3 if you want 2 for the money pitch but this isn't required). After you climb Gamaoke, you can take turns top roping the second pitch on Hospital before you rap for some full value climbing. I think Gamoke may be better than Hospital as ... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Ring Mountain
By: Evan Riley When: May 25, 2013

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Comments: After you get done climbing out here be sure to hit up Lucinda's for some killer cheap healthy Mexican food. The tamales and the carnitas are to die for.

yelp.com/biz/lucindas-mexican-...


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Apron Jam (5.9)
By: Evan Riley When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: Great lie-backing practice. You can reach the tree for a stellar 180' pitch which serves as a great approach to Mr. Natural. Gear is doubles from 0.3 - 4 and a single #5. More gear beta below.

Don't be afraid to burn the big gear down low, up higher you can sink smaller cams. I walked a 4 and 5 up until the crack narrowed and then ended up carrying those boat anchors to the top.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Mr. Natural (5.10+)
By: Evan Riley When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: If you approach from Apron Jam, climb all the way to the tree in a single 180' pitch. Traversing right from the secure Apron Jam munge to the tree is exciting but secure.

A double rack from 0-2 and some small stoppers will get you to the top without problem. Good rests and good gear all the way up.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Serenity Crack (5.10d PG13)
By: Evan Riley When: Mar 30, 2013

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Comments: The first pitch was wet in late march which made it extra sketchy. You can climb the Son's-Serenity link up in 5 pitches with a 70m rope.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Sacherer Cracker (5.10a)
By: Evan Riley When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: There is no chock stone in the OW up top anymore. Bring a 5 and/or 6 for the top or be comfortable running it 15ish feet in that OW.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Mark of Art (5.10d)
By: Evan Riley When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: A stout route. Triples is 0.4 - 0.5 C4s. The death block at near the top is pretty serious. It could easily kill a belayer if it fell. Someone should trundle it. Its kitchen table size and ready to go with some encouragement.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : Table Mountain : The Grotto : Chicken Ranch Bingo (5.10b)
By: Evan Riley When: Mar 3, 2013

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Comments: Wash your hands after climbing this. Spring 2013 and the holds up high were covered in bat shit.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Lucky Streaks (5.10c/d)
By: Evan Riley When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: You can link 1&2 with a 70m rope and do this thing in 5 pitches. When linking 1&2 you will come up just short of the standard belay for the start of pitch 3 with a rope stretching 70m of climbing. You can then stop at a comfyish ledge to belay the money pitch and make it to the standard belay for the start of pitch 4.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Dominion (5.10a)
By: Evan Riley When: Apr 29, 2012

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Comments: Beware! A 70m does not exactly get you to the ground from the anchors to the left. You can rap to a ledge 20' off the deck and down climb 5.6 to get to the ground.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Jailbreak (variation) (5.10b R)
By: Evan Riley When: Sep 6, 2011

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Comments: I led this yesterday. It didn't feel so run out. You can sling the monkey fist once you are a few moves up, then plug double equalized cams in the roof before you move around to the face. After that the gear is good. The crux is pulling the second roof.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Psychedelic Tree (5.9)
By: Evan Riley When: Sep 6, 2011

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Comments: Climbed in two pitches with a 60 meter rope. The death blocks were off the wall (and on the ground at the base of the route), but the route was still dirty. If cleaned it would be a leap classic.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Black Magic (5.8)
By: Evan Riley When: Feb 14, 2011

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Comments: It was a great route but a bit cold (my partner was freezing in a down sweater) in mid February, I thought the route would get some sun but it never came.

Keep going after the 3rd bolt on the 1st pitch or it makes pitch 2 a rope stretcher. The route soaked up small chocks and TCU's so pack extra.