Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Spoonless in the Obed.


Member Since: Oct 3, 2012
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact evan h

evan h
is a member of
Point Rank: # 2,773
Total Points: 208
Last Year: 137
Last 30 Days: 3
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has evan h been climbing?










Contributions


All 688 | Routes 8 | Areas | Photos 22 | Page Improvements | Comments 18 | Posts 114 | Stars 275 | Ratings 251

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : El Gato Monte (5.12a)
By: evan h When: Jul 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Absolutely. Brush and clean at will.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Lisa Randall Wall : Strong Force (5.11d)
By: evan h When: Jul 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a fun route with a definite crux pulling the roof. Some clever sequencing and body positioning are key. I'd also recommend stick clipping the second bolt. I'm glad you got this wall polished up, Richard; it's a fun new addition! In the heat, I wouldn't have argued with soft 12a, but with cooler conditions, I'd say it's fair at 11d.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : El Gato Monte (5.12a)
By: evan h When: Jul 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Cool, Richard, glad you enjoyed it. You're right, I did stay direct and a bit left by doing a sequence that involved a fairly burly, left shoulder move off the high gaston. I experimented with some moves out right, but I have T-Rex syndrome and couldn't make the reaches work for me. If there's a logical sequence, I'll make a point to get back up there with a brush and open up a few more options. Glad to hear there's not a significantly easier sequence at least! Some of the black schist is garbag... more >>


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : El Gato Monte (5.12a)
By: evan h When: Jun 30, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks, Richard. I'm not certain on the grade, as it really does boil down to equating it to a V-grade. The grade might be subjective depending on personal strength/power over a few moves.

I also TR'd a line that extends straight up from your first bolt on The Strike (same line?). I really liked the movement, but it was really wet at the time and would require a good bit of cleaning. Additionally, there's probably some potential for fun link-ups on the Prowler face as well!

I've enjoyed discov... more >>


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : El Gato Monte (5.12a)
By: evan h When: Jun 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A lower start can be done over what looks like some fun bouldering moves, which would add a letter grade or so and definitely up the pump factor. That being said, it's fairly contrived, as you could step left onto the large block at the base of the standard start.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress : Mournful Mullet (5.8)
By: evan h When: Jun 11, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: There is now a 2-bolt anchor on top of Shark Infested Waters, which will be more convenient (and safer) than traversing to the Feeding Frenzy anchors. Or just use the Major Bolt Achievement anchors, which may be a better choice for this route.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress : Shark Attack! or Shark Infe... (5.10d)
By: evan h When: Jun 11, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: With the permission of Tod Anderson, I added a 2-bolt stainless steel anchor to the top of this route yesterday. I found it a worthy route, especially if you're looking to push things a bit on gear at NTM. Unfortunately, using the anchors of nearby routes created pretty bad rope grinding scenarios when lowering and made it nearly impossible to clean on the rappel/lower. The new hardware should alleviate these problems.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Balkan Dirt Diving (5.12a)
By: evan h When: Dec 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This is not 12+ and not X. Buy a stick clip and fall a lot, for this is sport climbing. Get on this route and enjoy!


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras
By: evan h When: Sep 1, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: There is a new restaurant/cafe/grocery store/B&B at Tres Piedras called Chili Line Depot. On the way back to CO this morning, we stopped in for a quick breakfast burrito. We met one of the owners, Debbie, and she expressed a lot of excitement about serving the climbing community in the future. She was amazingly friendly and showed us around the bedrooms for rent, which also included a pool table/lounge area. The breakfast burritos were excellent (didn't try any other food). I think the bedroom m... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Convenience Cliff : Kwik-E-Mart (5.11a)
By: evan h When: Aug 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: There is now a very loose block between the first and second bolt. We marked it with an "X" in chalk, but it should probably be trundled. My only concern is that it may be acting as a support for the more prominent lieback flakes above, so we left it. Be very careful, as this was a useful hand and foot hold. The sequence is only a slight notch harder if you avoid this block, and doesn't affect the overall difficulty of the route.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Convenience Cliff : Five and Dime (5.10)
By: evan h When: Aug 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I think this is a great route, with the only strike against it being the break in climbing at the prominent ledge. Really fun (and well protected) V0/V1 boulder problem to the ledge, and 10a-ish climbing at the top with a tricky finish.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon
By: evan h When: Aug 1, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Hey guys...I have one confirmation that cell service is available up here, but I wanted to check with some of the locals. I need to be available via cell, and I use Verizon. Any issues? Thanks and looking forward to checking it all out!


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems
By: evan h When: Dec 18, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Andy, that looks reasonable to me, especially given the two entrance scenario. Again, I'm not at all familiar with the park, but any scheme that directs a new visitor from large scale sectors down to a smaller selection of boulders, down to individual problems is a good one.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Fountainbleau area : ... : Sangre De Los Manos (V2)
By: evan h When: Dec 15, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This may be listed under another name. Just a shot in the dark here.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems
By: evan h When: Dec 15, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Maybe this has been addressed elsewhere, but I think it would be a great service to the community if one of the locals here would do some organizing to the bouldering database. To someone who has never visited (me two days ago) trying to find a place to set up camp (and know what you're climbing) was rather difficult using Mountain Project alone. For instance, even the Font Boulders could use a few subdivisions. Just a thought.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : River Road Dihedrals : ker-THUD! (5.9)
By: evan h When: Nov 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Maybe I didn't traverse right early enough, but the gear I placed between the last bolt and the dihedral proper was suspect at best. It might have worked as an aid placement, but I doubt the rock is solid enough to take a fall at that point. If that piece failed, you're hitting the ground. The upper crack was fun, but I wasn't thrilled on the lichen-covered slab and suspect gear before the dihedral. Not a bad route, but that's my 2 cents for a budding 5.9 trad leader.


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Marry Me, Becky (5.10)
By: evan h When: Nov 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: There is a loose, toaster-sized block at the top of the twin cracks section, on the right side. A small crack has formed, and I felt it flex when I grabbed it. I marked an "x" with chalk, but be careful. That's not one you want to send down, and it's an inviting jug.


Location: NM
By: evan h When: Sep 17, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Does anyone know about potential crack climbing on the Entrada Sandstone around Ghost Ranch and Abiquiu Dam? It seems there's amazing potential, but I can't find any info about first ascents or beta. Surely people have climbed here!


Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!