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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art
By: Evan Deis When: Mar 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just wanted to add that to rap this route with a single sixty would be stupid and inconsiderate of the parties below you.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra : The Cobra (5.11b R)
By: Evan Deis When: Mar 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is not a gym climb. Be gentile with the soft desert rocks and conglomerates. I watched a 12-year-old-75-pounder scrape what must have been a pound of rock off of this thing (top rope). If you are unfamiliar with the soft nature of the soft rock in this area, maybe wait a few years for this one. Just one man's opinion.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Sand Flats : The Rhino's Horn : Regular Route (5.9+ R)
By: Evan Deis When: Mar 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This can be done in two pitches with a seventy. We did so with a sixty, requiring my second to climb a few feet to get me to the chains. Several Death blocks. This route is moderate but should be taken seriously as the rock is never that good. 5.9 R. Bring Chord. Standard Desert Rack.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Lighthouse Tower : Poseidon Adventure (5.10 R)
By: Evan Deis When: Mar 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was hard. #5 was important. Two or three #4s. A few smaller pieces.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls : Hidden Falls (main) (WI4)
By: Evan Deis When: Feb 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ice is pretty beat up 2/27/13.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2) : Photo
By: Evan Deis When: Feb 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tony; Is it not true that matter and antimatter may be at the same place at the same time?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : ... : Photo
By: Evan Deis When: Dec 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Didn't know that climb was receptive to BigBros.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: Evan Deis When: Dec 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 65?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Flakes of Wrath Direct (5.11 R)
By: Evan Deis When: Dec 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that this route should not include a bolt after the flake. However, when somebody takes a large enough whip on that flake, it may go, and the route will be forever changed. Maybe a bolt would save the route? Food for thought. I loved it without the bolt.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Hair City (5.9+ R)
By: Evan Deis When: Nov 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This line is scary.
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Lake District : ... : Photo
By: Evan Deis When: Nov 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Take note: there aren't a million folks hanging out at the crags below. Man... Climbing used to be so cool.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Black Crack (5.9)
By: Evan Deis When: Jul 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty old school 5.9+. Good gear.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : A Tall Cool One (5.12a)
By: Evan Deis When: Jul 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: +1 to TB. A great route. It seems odd to me that so many would turn up their noses regarding traffic noise. It is sport climbing at the Bowling Alley, after all. I think that 11d/12a makes sense if you stick to the bolt line; I believe that many cheat left at both the lower and upper crux.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : High Valley : Photo
By: Evan Deis When: Jun 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Andy?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Second Buttress : Tough Situation (5.9+)
By: Evan Deis When: Aug 31, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very nice route (but short). I agree that it is more powerful than Classic Finger Crack, but the feet are much better.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Fixed Hardware Replacement ...
By: Evan Deis When: Jul 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: John P(enis). Don't be a Jerk.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Xanadu (5.10a)
By: Evan Deis When: Jul 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very exciting lead, especially if you've never depended on your RPs before.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : The Young and the Rackless (5.9)
By: Evan Deis When: Jun 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This uninteresting, over-bolted route is severely overrated: three stars? Exposure is very limited and and does not make a for a good introduction to multi-pitch climbing.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Evan Deis When: May 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome
By: Evan Deis When: Jun 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What if you then cannot get your knot out of the crack?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Nightcap (5.9)
By: Evan Deis When: Jun 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route with great movement. You'll find that the crux is evident, but not in the way of a good send; get high feet.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Cheers aka Thrill of the Ch... (5.10a)
By: Evan Deis When: Jun 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm surprised to hear that horn was added. A great project for next time. Be prepared to place gear this is not a sport route.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - East Face : Bearded Cabbage (5.10c)
By: Evan Deis When: Jun 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Beta Video on Youtube -
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Kid's Climb (5.9)
By: Evan Deis When: Jun 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an okay climb. You can sew up the beginning with a quick nut/stopper. Move to the right and lean out for the third bolt. 5.10 or 5.10-.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Qs (5.9+)
By: Evan Deis When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow. I think this might be my new favorite sport route. Start off to the left and trust your fingers.
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