Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : The Overleaf (5.8)
By: ET When: Jul 7, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the roof variation of this, which I would definately recommend. It has better moves, protection, and rope work. Pulling the roof itself is a little stiff, 5.8+ and out of character for the rest of the climb which goes 5.6-7
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : Cheryl's Peril (5.9)
By: ET When: Jul 7, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is #7 on the photo. I would describe the protection as adequate but not heartwarming. A middlesize nut will add confidence. A 50m will definately not work. A 60m will get you to easy scrambling. It goes 5.8(R)+, or 5.9- depending on the guidebook.
|
Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+)
By: ET When: May 22, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rappelling: Ok you could Rap the whole route with 1 60 or 70 if you did 4 raps; however its probably better to do it in 2 2rope Rappels. Use 2 60 meters to rappel from the summit to the time tunnel. Hike the time tunnel to belay station 2 then 2 60's to the ground (50meters will not work). This is probably better then trying the rap from the summit to lunchbox ledge.
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : West Point Crack (5.8 R)
By: ET When: May 7, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: David, I am less concerned with the two pins at the bottom of P2 then I am with the runout towards the end of P2. The inside of that crack is difficult if not worthless to protect so a lot of people end up clipping those first 2 pins, then running it out to the top. Replacing one of the pins with a bolt would be great, but I say there should be one about 3/4 of the way up that second pitch.Also, there were chains at the top and now its just one really old pin. If you're replacing, that one wo... more >>
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : West Point Crack (5.8 R)
By: ET When: Feb 9, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: So, Terrence let me get this straight. You loosened a piton making it (yet more) unsafe, but did not remove the piton. Dude, someone is going to take a big ride when they clip that piton - which is going to happen to some poor beginner.
Could the next person to climb this please pull the afore mentioned piton and save someone's ass.
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Jackson Creek
By: ET When: Oct 5, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is anyone sure on the drive? I could only find road 502, which at least got me close. Does this mithical road 507 exist?
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : The Overleaf (5.8)
By: ET When: Sep 11, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was not amazed by this climb but it's an ok way to summit. I would definately recommend a 60 meter rope and lots of long slings. I would try to do the climb in 2 pitches. For comfort you'll want a BD 3.5 and 4 cmas but ok with 3 and under.
The trick to the first pitch is to start your belay as high as possible. I would say go under right under the roof (5.9 possibly) and use 4ft at the pinacle of the roof to elimate drag. You'll need the 3.5 and 4 coming around the right side of the roof... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Huston Crack (5.8+)
By: ET When: Sep 4, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ya, just to echo whats already been said. The crux on this one is high and you need a 4 or 4.5 BD size cam to protect it.
Learned this one the hard way, I grounded out when I slipped at the crux and my tapped out 3.5 pulled.
|
RSS Feed
