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Aid soloing in sedona


Member Since: Dec 22, 2005
Last Visit: Nov 16, 2014
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Point Rank: # 687
Total Points: 935
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Erock been climbing?










Contributions


All 273 | Routes 52 | Areas 7 | Photos 45 | Page Improvements | Comments 70 | Posts 8 | Stars 80 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Navajolands : Southern Ute Reservation : Brokeback Tower : ... : Photo
By: Erock When: Jan 1, 2013

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Comments: That looks like some sketchy ass shale/mud stone.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Photo
By: Erock When: Nov 21, 2012

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Comments: Me and a friend jumped in that lake from the top of the ice/snow cliff 4 years ago, we had never swam back to shore so quickly before that. Water had to be close to 40 degrees or colder.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : Photo
By: Erock When: Oct 24, 2012

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Comments: Ahh, I love tectonic structures.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Right Wall : ... : Photo
By: Erock When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: That looks like a sweet line.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - North : Delayed Gratification (5.10c)
By: Erock When: Apr 23, 2012

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Comments: Ok, cool. Thanks for the feedback man!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - North : Delayed Gratification (5.10c)
By: Erock When: Apr 23, 2012

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Comments: I left a space on the bolting higher up where it was easier, did you think that it was ok? I tried to place the bolts in the best place I could. I would agree the moves are tricky. Glad you liked it.

Eric


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area
By: Erock When: Mar 27, 2012

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Comments: Ahh, ok cool that makes more sense now. I think there is a beta photo online here that describes the spires from left to right incorrectly then. I used it to figure out which ones were which, but I may have read it wrong.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area
By: Erock When: Mar 24, 2012

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Comments: Here is a edited photo of the area. Are these any of the lines you were talking about?

Routes on west side
Routes on west side



Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area
By: Erock When: Mar 24, 2012

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Comments: Cool, ya i saw both of those routes you are talking about. One has a bolt and desert piton at the bottom anchor on the ledge and the other has 2 bigger bolts that requires some easy but very exposed 5th class soloing above the ledge. It looks like there are a few other possible lines on the west face. Are there any other established routes on this side that you know about? There is also a really good looking fingers to big hands roof crack way far right that looks cool.

Thanks for the info,... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area
By: Erock When: Mar 23, 2012

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Comments: Another photo close up of the crack.
Up Close
Up Close



Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area
By: Erock When: Mar 23, 2012

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Comments: There is a splitter tips to good fingers crack on the pulpit spire that is tucked to the right of the corner in the picture. I can't find any information on the crack or the corner, has it been done? From the looks of it, it looks untouched...at least the crack. Looks like it'll go at least low 13.

Crack right of corner
Crack right of corner



Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - North : White Punks on Dope (5.11a)
By: Erock When: Mar 10, 2012

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Comments: Bolts are in and the route is well protected now. I downgraded the route, not as hard as I once thought it was back in the day when the upper section didn't have good protection. I will have to look in your guide again to see if it is accurate for where the climb goes but in general I think it shows it well as I remember.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - North : White Punks on Dope (5.11a)
By: Erock When: Mar 10, 2012

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Comments: Bolts will be up tomorrow (March 10th 2012). I will update the info for pro once I am done.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Keeler Needle
By: Erock When: Mar 7, 2012

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Comments: Is the Harding Route the only route on Keeler Needle? If so have any new lines been attempted?


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area
By: Erock When: Mar 7, 2012

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Comments: Damn that's burly, that thing looks pretty good though from far away. I only have one #5/#6. Might need to pool together some big cams for that one.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area
By: Erock When: Mar 6, 2012

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Comments: There is a route that I am curious about. It is climbers left of the church wall way around the corner up high. I am sure everyone has looked at it. It is a 100 foot tall wide crack (off width) that dissects a large tan sandstone face and is unmistakeable from the hike in. Has it been climbed and if so does anyone have some info on it? If it hasn't been touched it looks like a nice Sedona off width.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Alpine Follies Hangover (5.12)
By: Erock When: Mar 6, 2012

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Comments: Thanks, I was just the lucky one that stumbled upon it really. Not sure why it hadn't been climbed previously, it's a stunning line in a really popular area.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Genesis (5.10-)
By: Erock When: Mar 6, 2012

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Comments: Does the 2nd pitch need an extra bolt still? I would go up there and put one in as well as trundle everything off of it with a crowbar.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area
By: Erock When: Feb 26, 2012

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Comments: Hey JJ,

I talked to some guys about the line today out at the wall and they said that the aid line is farther to the left of this one. I got on the climb today, put 2 bolts at the bottom for a belay because its loose and slopey with a 100 foot cliff right behind it (1/2 inch x 3 3/4 inch 5 piece powers). The crack starts at 000 then gradually widens to .4 BD for the last 50 feet, it is splitter. Needs some cleaning, I plan to go out there during the week to do some trundling while there is n... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area
By: Erock When: Feb 24, 2012

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Comments: It is definitely only one pitch, there is no way it could go any higher. At least I don't think so becuase the crack disappear about 100 feet up and turns to blank face. There is no evidence of aid either, don't think this is what you are talking about but I could be wrong.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area
By: Erock When: Feb 24, 2012

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Comments: Is this anyone else's project currently? There are no bolts on it for an anchor currently and I have started projecting it. It is to the left of Broken Arete and climbs the obvious dihedral tips crack and the tips/finger crack to the left of the dihedral. I have had a couple burns on it and I think it will go at 12+. Going this weekend to put in some anchors if it isn't someone project already, it doesn't show any signs of it though.

Upper tier Dihedral
Upper tier Dihedral



Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Church Nazi (5.11a)
By: Erock When: Feb 19, 2012

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Comments: Replaced the hangar on the last bolt of this climb. The old one had been smashed from rockfall.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Tangerine Trip (5.9 A3+)
By: Erock When: Feb 7, 2012

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Comments: I believe that Erik Sloan did most of the replacing of rivets and bolts on this one about 4/5? years ago with a buddy of mine. Props to him as he has probably replaced over 1000 bolts and rivets on the captain and other rocks in the valley over the years.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Lower Beach
By: Erock When: Feb 7, 2012

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Comments: Very cool, I didn't know it was three pitches. Do you know what the third is like?


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Lower Beach
By: Erock When: Feb 5, 2012

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Comments: Anyone know what the corner crack on the right most side of the lower beach goes at? The one that is 2 pitches. Super good climb, wondering why its not posted on here.


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