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Grand Teton summit 13,770' <br />Jackson Hole, Wyoming


Member Since: Aug 13, 2001
Last Visit: Oct 15, 2010
Contact Ernie Port


Point Rank: # 723
Total Points: 868
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
19 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ernie Port been climbing?










Contributions


All 370 | Routes 3 | Areas 2 | Photos 133 | Page Improvments | Comments 143 | Posts | Stars 52 | Ratings 37
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Hair City (5.9+ R)
By: Ernie Port When: Oct 15, 2010

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Comments: Led this route for the second time yesterday and remembered it well as one of those trad routes that really grabs your attention right from the start. The first pitch has so much climbing variety in it, mantling, thin crimpers, jugs, mini laybacks, traverses, and runnout in a nervey 130'. The finish of P1 can be done 3 ways...straight thru the jugs, over to the right then into the squeeze chimney (highly undesireable IMO), or to the right side of the finish block, then traverse left 15-20' to ... more >>


Location: Nick Sandstrom : E. Port : Photo
By: Ernie Port When: Sep 29, 2010

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Comments: Nice shot Nick! Thanks for remembering to post. It was a great day to be up there for sure...not a cloud all day!!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : North Face/Ridge : Keyhole Ridge (5.6)
By: Ernie Port When: Aug 13, 2008

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Comments: Good alpine route if you don't mind a very long approach. Climbed this 7/27/08, and getting a late start found ourselves high on the ridge when light hail turned to rain. Passed the crux slab when it was still dry, although rest of climbing was slippery. Route finding was mostly straightforward except we incorrectly opted to start the 2nd pitch going up the SE side from the belay notch on the ridge, finding out it dropped off at the top. From this belay notch, (marked by a black piece of web... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Keel : Northeast Ridge (4th)
By: Ernie Port When: May 27, 2008

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Comments: Agree with Tony on the descent...if soloing this, the 80' down climb from the summit to the south walk off is the crux. Not too bad though. Wouldn't recommend down climbing the tree, as the branches are all dead. Bear hugging the bottom 15-20' to the ground from the last branch wasn't the option we chose to take....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : ... : Photo
By: Ernie Port When: Feb 8, 2008

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Comments: Ben's picture diagram of P1 is slightly off. His pic shows going over a bulge once on the ledge down low, but instead follow the ledge all the way to the dihedral, then go up from there....


Location: CO : Rockies Win!
By: Ernie Port When: Oct 2, 2007

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Comments: My gut feeling is that Phillie fans will feel more pain this week.
So being used to it...you'll be shaking your heads, just like Padre fans were doing last night.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Palisades : The Ramp to Clark's Arrow t... (5.0 Easy Snow)
By: Ernie Port When: Aug 19, 2007

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Comments: I finally did this route yesterday under perfect late summer conditions, and it was fun. Bernard's description is spot on, (amazed at all the route details you describe Bernard!).
Gerry Roach describes the down climb from the loft to Clark's arrow as class 3, but there are a few class 4 down climb moves IMO, as Bernard mentions in his description. Don't think I want to try this in winter!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Powell Peak : Northeast Ridge II, Class 4 (4th R)
By: Ernie Port When: Aug 19, 2007

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Comments: We did this 8/11/07 under perfect, dry conditions. We did not bring a rope, but there were a couple sections where being roped up would be recommended, especially under wet conditions. I recommend staying as close to the ridge line as possible, yet going down and around the giant rock tower half way up the ridge. The crux area for us were the upper slabs, where we found good edges and cracks, and where the route finding got interesting. One of the very best mountain ridge link ups I've ever d... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : McHenry's Peak : NE Ridge or Arrowhead Arete
By: Ernie Port When: Aug 19, 2007

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Comments: I led a party of 3 guys up this 7/21/07 in perfect weather and would say it was spectacular. We didn't bring a rope and were all comfortable on the class 4 terrain. The entire route was dry and in perfect shape. In getting up to the Arrowhead ridge from Solitude lake we took a very loose, steep gully that ended at a large cave. We ascended out of the gully to the right near the cave entrance and went straight up, with a class 5 move over a chockstone (there was an old piece of webbing to gra... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Hair City (5.9+ R)
By: Ernie Port When: Sep 9, 2006

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Comments: Although the mantle move down low may be the crux, the balancy move just above the second bolt, was a bit hairy too. Once you figure it out and move up, good small stopper placements are there. Up high on P1 I went to the right side, placed a #1 cam in a crack , traversed left to that little horn in the far left upper corner, and up to the top of the block, a series of moves made more exciting with that much rope out!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : Northeast Ridge (5.6)
By: Ernie Port When: Jul 16, 2006

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Comments: Great route, on superb stone, worth the grueling approach, if you have great weather like we did..a blue bird day. We set up a bivy down in the gash and were right behind a CMS guided party of three the next morning at our 6:45 start. However, Roy Leggett did an outstanding job of guiding his clients, and we never waited long and enjoyed their company.

This route has excellent position and has good, sustained climbing at the grade (5.5 & 6) the entire way. The crux was probably a short layback... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Runaway (5.8)
By: Ernie Port When: Oct 7, 2005

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Comments: Climbed this route tonight. Long pitch, lots of easy climbing on good positive edges. But not sustained at the grade, one (8) move IMO. I placed a blue Alien above what I thought might be the crux move. Did throw a #2 Camalot high in the crack in the last 10'. FWIW, I would feel comfortable leading this trad with small wires and Aliens, and a #2, but I have no problem with the bolts, as I clipped them tonight. Without clipping bolts, this climb would be interesting for the grad... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Outer Space (5.10c R)
By: Ernie Port When: Oct 1, 2005

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Comments: Stellar route! Followed 2 & 3 today and found it to be every bit as good as advertised. On P2 the first hard move up and over the blocky prow is made easier using the overhead rail as the crack up and over peters out. This rail is slopey in the middle, but pretty good low and higher up...there is a fixed stopper at the top of the crack. The next hard move for me was out from under a pod like stance at the start of the dihedral below the pin, using bomber underclings and the crack out on the le... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Positively Fourth Street (5.10a)
By: Ernie Port When: Sep 25, 2005

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Comments: IMO its the easiest 10a on west ridge. Especially if in the last 5' you reach out right to the corner and lay back with the left hand to reach the jug...suppose if you completely commit to the crack with both hands it would be 10a, but this route has so many hold options. I instinctively reached out to the right corner and sent it with little difficulty. Fun route nonetheless.Ernie


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Conan's Gonads (Conad's) (5.9)
By: Ernie Port When: Sep 13, 2005

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Comments: This route was a struggle for me, as I'm more of a face climber than a hand crack climber. The middle third of this route was stout and the climbing physical and sustained. I would have to say this is one of the most demanding (9) pitches I've climbed anywhere. But the rock is excellent and the setting is superb.Gunna go back and do this one again and again...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: Ernie Port When: Sep 9, 2005

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Comments: I've lead this several times and again last month was on it and the blue alien placement in the pocket at the upper crux is bomber IMO. First time I jumped on this several years ago I was a bit sketched on that upper crux and didn't have the blue alien. The move off that perch is closer to (9) than to (8) IMHO.Agree that the lower crux is not terribly difficult, especially for taller folks, but last month I watched a shorter guy fall off before the corner while following this pitch, while we w... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Stigmata (5.10a)
By: Ernie Port When: Aug 28, 2005

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Comments: Eats small Aliens...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Dominator (5.10c)
By: Ernie Port When: Aug 28, 2005

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Comments: After doing this route again today, found an easier sequence for the finish and now realize why the last bolt was unnecesary and hanger removed just below the chains. High reach left for the corner off the right finger lockout makes this finish easier, than working that right crack all the way up...fun climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Dominator (5.10c)
By: Ernie Port When: Aug 18, 2005

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Comments: The last bolt hanger before the chains was not there, making the last 7' rather spicy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Dead Again (5.10b)
By: Ernie Port When: Aug 18, 2005

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Comments: The crux move up in the middle felt a bit harder than anything on its neighbor Isle of the Dead. Fun moves moving out and up from the undercling to the flake.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Isle of the Dead (5.10c)
By: Ernie Port When: Aug 18, 2005

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Comments: Keeps you thinking if you avoid bailing right after halfway. Last clip made easier by finding hidden hand hold out left...decent stances the whole way.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: Ernie Port When: Aug 7, 2005

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Comments: On P1, after clipping the twisted knife blade (which I didn't feel a need to back up), layback the flake and step up immediately using one of several small edges at the bottom of this flake, reaching for the two [chalked] up flared pockets in the crack above the piece. This is the most direct, and IMO easiest way to reach the next bolt. Trusting this stance while clipping is the mental crux...balancy... I've wandered a bit farther right before launching up while following this pitch in the ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Heavy Weather (5.9)
By: Ernie Port When: Jul 31, 2005

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Comments: This is a very good route. I felt P1 is good but over graded a bit. Felt more like (8+) max to me. Yet my partner, thought it felt bouldery and harder than (9), and he climbs harder than me, so go figure. Good stances for placing gear...used a black alien and a #4 BD stopper for the business in the dihedral.

P2 may be the crux, and it felt (9) to me, but the finger to hand jams are bomber, on good rock with great pro, made it feel very secure. Took a blue alien at the start of the cr... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Hen and Chickens : Rooster Tail (5.9)
By: Ernie Port When: Jul 26, 2005

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Comments: Agree with you Leo, the last 10' of this climb is up the face to the left of the crack, using the crack maybe twice in that span for right hand finger tip lock outs. Nice finish on good rock with very gritty texture.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs : Remission (5.7)
By: Ernie Port When: Jul 20, 2005

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Comments: This is a good [finale] for an evening in this area. This route is good, but not great and I agree it is a bit sandbagged. Depending on which side of the bolts you go, this route could be anywhere from 5.8 to 5.10. It will make you think, but the angle is not that severe and sustained as Panic in the Gray Room...fun lead.


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