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Member Since: Sep 29, 2008
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Erik the Awful been climbing?










Contributions


All 1105 | Routes 6 | Areas 1 | Photos 7 | Page Improvments | Comments 21 | Posts 5 | Stars 755 | Ratings 310

Contributed Comments

 

Location: MT : Tobacco Root Mountains : Mason Lake
By: Erik the Awful When: Nov 8, 2012

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Comments: There's about 30 established problems above Mason Lake, mostly in the large talus field. There's another dozen or so established around Upper Mason Lake (below the granite big wall) as well. Definitely a lot of potential around Cataract Reservoir, but the rock quality isn't quite as good as the upper stuff.


Location: MT : Tobacco Root Mountains : Mason Lake : Photo
By: Erik the Awful When: Nov 8, 2012

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Comments: Not unclimbed. Don't have any route details, but I know this has been climbed on for at least a few decades.


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Cascade Creek : Lava Pit : Lava Lunge Traverse (V4)
By: Erik the Awful When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: FA = Abominable Ho-Man


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Cascade Creek : Lava Pit : Lava Lunge SDS (V6)
By: Erik the Awful When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: FA = Ho-Cakes


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Cascade Creek : Tyler's Problem Boulder : Tyler's Route (V4-5)
By: Erik the Awful When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: FA was probably Tyler Sweeney


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Cascade Creek : Tyler's Problem Boulder : Feed My Frankenstein (V6)
By: Erik the Awful When: Sep 28, 2012

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Comments: I thought it might have been that one. I ticked it when I cleaned the problem, but didn't end up using it. It seemed harder to me using it.


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Cascade Creek : Explosive Boulder : Quail Hunting With Dick Che... (V6-7)
By: Erik the Awful When: Sep 27, 2012

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Comments: I did it both ways and they both feel about V6. Pick your poison - easier moves to get to the last crimp left handed with a hard throw to the lip or a hard move to get he last crimp right handed and an easy move to the lip.


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Cascade Creek : Tyler's Problem Boulder : Feed My Frankenstein (V6)
By: Erik the Awful When: Sep 27, 2012

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Comments: None of the holds I used on the FA are broken...


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Vietnam : Napalm Death (5.12c/d)
By: Erik the Awful When: Jul 25, 2012

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Comments: To elaborate on the description a little: It appears the original line follows the bolts via two sets of double barrel pockets, then left to the obvious jug rail. But, it seems much easier to follow a line of pockets and crimps about 5 feet left of the third bolt. Also, the dyno mentioned in the book (from the jug rail up and right) is very contrived and much harder than going to a good left hand pinch. Long story short, if you take the path of least resistance left of the bolt line it's mor... more >>


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower : Spare Tire (5.10)
By: Erik the Awful When: Nov 17, 2010

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Comments: This route is called Spare Tire. The original FA was done by Jim Scott entirely on gear, then Meg and Rand re-cleaned it and added a few bolts (with permission).


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower : Tigger (5.10a/b)
By: Erik the Awful When: Aug 27, 2010

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Comments: Although most disagree, I think this is a much better route than First Best. Also, instead of going left to the anchors, you can continue up through the wide crack in the left facing dihedral which leads to the Orange Crack 1st pitch anchor. This makes it about a 100ft pitch.


Location: MT
By: Erik the Awful When: Jun 7, 2010

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Comments: Josh -
There's not much bouldering near Bozeman, but there's a lot starting about an hour from town. Yankee Jim Canyon has a bunch of stuff and there's a free guide that Bozeman locals Jeff Ho and Jeff Webber put together available online on my site: boulderingmontana.com The other large area is the massive boulder batholith between Whitehall and Butte. There's basically unlimited bouldering in the batholith, with Whiskey Gulch bei... more >>


Location: UT : Joe's Valley
By: Erik the Awful When: Apr 6, 2010

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Comments: Anyone know about access to the Innumerables? Is it okay to climb there? If so, where do you park?


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Happy Boulders : ... : Sucker Punch (V4)
By: Erik the Awful When: Oct 22, 2009

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Comments: Dang it! That was one of the top problems on my list for my trip next month, just because I knew that hold wasn't going to last too long.


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower : Orange Crack (5.11)
By: Erik the Awful When: Jul 23, 2009

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Comments: There are two bolts with beefy rap rings on top of the first pitch. For some reason the bolts were places within an inch or two of each other. Also, the first pitch pretty much a full 100ft. You can just TR Orange Crack and Tigger from the anchors with a 60m rope, but a 50m wouldn't be long enough for top roping.


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower : First Best (5.10-)
By: Erik the Awful When: Jul 23, 2009

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Comments: There is no longer a fixed pin on this route.


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Skyline Buttress : Skyline Arete (5.6)
By: Erik the Awful When: Jun 17, 2009

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Comments: I'm guessing it's the second pitch of Ithaca Connection, 5.9. I don't have a guide with me so I can't be 100%.


Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : Busload of Faith (5.14a)
By: Erik the Awful When: Apr 24, 2009

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Comments: FA: Frank Dusl


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Happy Boulders : ... : Heavenly Path Boulder
By: Erik the Awful When: Feb 20, 2009

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Comments: This has to be one of the best warm-up boulders anywhere.


Location: MT : Hyalite Canyon : Practice Rock : Theoretically (5.10+)
By: Erik the Awful When: Feb 19, 2009

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Comments: First Ascent: the one and only Pat Callis. In the late 60's I believe.


Location: MT : Hyalite Canyon : Practice Rock
By: Erik the Awful When: Sep 29, 2008

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Comments: Also, I wouldn't say there are any "sport" climbs. There are bolted climbs, but you're going to want gear to supplement the bolts.