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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - The Pile : Right Pile (5.11d)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun one! I have tried the crux both ways, going right and straight up. In my opinon going straight up is 11d according to BCC standards, going left softens the grade a bit. Either way its a fight to the finish.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Morning Glory (5.10c/d)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree the second pitch is what makes this one worth it. For the last pitch we did a variation where we followed the crack/corner till it ended and then headed straight up the face. My guess is the rating is still around 10a or b only cause the first move off the second pitch belay is that hard, other than that the rest is pretty easy with a runout 5-4 or so. No additional bolt is needed here.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Outside Corner (5.7)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jul 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome climb. However I lost my wedding ring in the parking lot and had a cam walk in right at the third pitch. If anybody finds either of those let me know.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Apr 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: WATCH OUT FOR TICKS! We went on Friday to LCC, today is Wednesday, and we are still finding them in our car and cloths. Just be aware.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Green Monster Slab : Green Monster Aid Crack (5.10d)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Mar 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: call me crazy, but this is one of my all time favorite trad finger cracks anywhere. Long and sustained! Perhaps no move is exactly 10d, but I think altogether this is a 10d route. Cheers.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Farmington Crag : Suck it Up Princess (5.9)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jun 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: nice man! ok ok i was a little whiny about the approach :P this is a cooler route than it looks at first.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Farmington Crag
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jun 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I actually like this area. It has a lot of potential, that being said be prepared for a long hike. We are working on the trail to make it better. Watch for rattlesnakes also, i nearly stepped on one making our way back in the dark. Ryan said that he thinks the place would be a good winter destination. I think he is right, it gets the sun all day. Cheers
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bolt Slab : Dazed and Refused (5.11d)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One more quick important note Darren wanted me to mention, the far left arete is off for anything. Especially to place gear, gear is probably the hardest part about this route.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Equipment Overhang (5.11a)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Sep 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree, i think it is solid 5-11 in between those two bolts. I did not get a piece in at the top either, but the climbing eases as you get higher.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Ed and Terry Wall : Call it a Knight (5.10a)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: An awesome lead, very well bolted. Its safe, for the solid 5-10 climber, but pretty scary if you ask me.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Ed and Terry Wall : Flakes (5.7)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome climb! The best 5-7 I have ever done. Not saying much, but still a stellar climb. That being said about 1/3 of the way up there is a very loose flake. I don't know if that is recent or not, but I imagine it is. Just be careful, a falling flake off of this climb could be really bad for your belayer or climbers on red slab.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : All Chalk And No Action (5.12a)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Mar 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My first 5.12! Don't cheat yourself, start on the face and avoid the corner;it is way cooler. The sequence is stellar and is well protected. Beautiful vertical face, Granite, wonderful location...it does not get much better.
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Location: UT : Triassic : Land of a Thousand Boulders : Desperate (V7)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Feb 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you want it is possible to just use the arete, i think it is about the same difficulty wise. Beta for short people i suppose.
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