Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Nov 20, 2008
Last Visit: Aug 25, 2014
Contact Erik S. Gillis


Point Rank: # 4,165
Total Points: 99
Last Year: 4
Last 30 Days: 0
14 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Erik S. Gillis been climbing?










Contributions


All 94 | Routes 4 | Areas | Photos 7 | Page Improvments | Comments 24 | Posts 3 | Stars 30 | Ratings 26

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Cliffs of Insanity : Bark (5.11b/c)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jul 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Committing! The whole thing has lichen and moss on it, otherwise this would be a pretty nice climb. It has very technical movement on a steep arete and then a difficult move past the bulge.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Neff's Canyon : Chadbourne Crag : Piston Bully (5.12b/c)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jun 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Next to the last bolt, looking to climbers right, there is a huge hollow flake that is about to come down. If you are climbing this don't use it, as tempting as that is. Go straight up from the second to last bolt, there are pockets to the left and you can stem into a nice stance to clip the chains. This is one of my all time favorite 12's in the Wasatch. Stick clip the second bolt unless you want a poll up the ass.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Black and White John and Ma... (5.10c)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Oct 9, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Great route. The original start and finish make for an epic lead! However, We spent some time today sussing out the beta to the 11 start and 11 finish and I have to say, if you do the route this way it is simply amazing, I would say the best climb I have done in LCC. The gear is there, except for some spice in the beginning, but it is hard to place. It would be nice to talk to the FA party and ask them if we could place one bolt one the direct .11 start. This would make it accessible and saf... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers : Drunk Punk Oi (5.11b/c)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Aug 20, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Crux right at the top, and this thing is PUMPY. I don't know how it is usually done I went straight up at the second to last bolt, going right there is easier. I think going straight up is a stout beta intensive 11c if you go right at that spot the route is 11a/b. That's my opinion but i don't know how the route goes normally. Best sport lead on the wall.


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Central (Blooming Rose, Cla... : Red Rider (5.10a)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Aug 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: harder than 10a I think. It felt as hard or harder than other 10bs around, but only for one move. Super fun!


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Central (Blooming Rose, Cla... : Claim Jumper (5.10c)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Aug 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: agreed could be led with gear fairly safely....however this is a sport area so not many people have their rack handy. Super hard for the grade.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers : Dehumanized (5.11)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jul 26, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This thing is a beast in the summer sun. I think it would be much easier to do it in the shade! Go early morning or late afternoon. I used a #2 and .75 but a #1 might fit better for the middle section. Crux is getting to the chains! Sloper fest! Have fun, great route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Skinny Len Crimps (5.11a)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jul 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Fun, I agree with the 11a rating if you go to the right. I agree with Sam if you go straight up it is probably 12a. However, the crux is protected by the second bolt and while there may be decking potential clipping the third it eases up after the crux... All in all to go straight up is probably 12a PG13, but i thought it was way more fun than going right.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Main : John Doe 2 (5.11b PG13)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jul 22, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: super fun movement on pretty good holds. Crux was in-between the bolts. Didn't bring the right gear so ended up running it out between bolts. Could have been a ground fall I suppose or at least pretty close. Definitely R if you do it that way. I nearly shitted myself for sure. Great route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers : Condor (5.12)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jul 22, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I agree that it is not sustained at all, I thought the climbing above the crux was in the 10 range, harder than uncensored society to the left. That being said, depending on your height the crux can be quite difficult. I think calling it mid or soft 11 is definitely sandbagging it. I am not great at rating things, but if I compare it to other boulder problems I have done, I would say it is harder than standard overhang V3 and is more like smiley right V4 if you wanna compare it to LCC boulder... more >>


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jul 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: So I left my new 510 moccasins at the base of Myopia July 7th 2013. If any body finds them could you please email me at erkgillis@gmail.com thanks
Erik


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - The Pile : Right Pile (5.11d)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: May 15, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Fun one! I have tried the crux both ways, going right and straight up. In my opinon going straight up is 11d according to BCC standards, going left softens the grade a bit. Either way its a fight to the finish.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Morning Glory (5.10c/d)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: May 15, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I agree the second pitch is what makes this one worth it. For the last pitch we did a variation where we followed the crack/corner till it ended and then headed straight up the face. My guess is the rating is still around 10a or b only cause the first move off the second pitch belay is that hard, other than that the rest is pretty easy with a runout 5-4 or so. No additional bolt is needed here.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Outside Corner (5.7)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jul 15, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Awesome climb. However I lost my wedding ring in the parking lot and had a cam walk in right at the third pitch. If anybody finds either of those let me know.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Apr 7, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: WATCH OUT FOR TICKS! We went on Friday to LCC, today is Wednesday, and we are still finding them in our car and cloths. Just be aware.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Green Monster Slab : Green Monster Aid Crack (5.10d)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Mar 25, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: call me crazy, but this is one of my all time favorite trad finger cracks anywhere. Long and sustained! Perhaps no move is exactly 10d, but I think altogether this is a 10d route. Cheers.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Farmington Crag : Suck it Up Princess (5.9)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jun 14, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: nice man! ok ok i was a little whiny about the approach :P this is a cooler route than it looks at first.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Farmington Crag
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jun 10, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: I actually like this area. It has a lot of potential, that being said be prepared for a long hike. We are working on the trail to make it better. Watch for rattlesnakes also, i nearly stepped on one making our way back in the dark. Ryan said that he thinks the place would be a good winter destination. I think he is right, it gets the sun all day. Cheers


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bolt Slab : Dazed and Refused (5.11d)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Oct 13, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: One more quick important note Darren wanted me to mention, the far left arete is off for anything. Especially to place gear, gear is probably the hardest part about this route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Equipment Overhang (5.11a)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Sep 6, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I agree, i think it is solid 5-11 in between those two bolts. I did not get a piece in at the top either, but the climbing eases as you get higher.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Ed and Terry Wall : Call it a Knight (5.10a)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jul 17, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: An awesome lead, very well bolted. Its safe, for the solid 5-10 climber, but pretty scary if you ask me.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Ed and Terry Wall : Flakes (5.7)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jul 6, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Awesome climb! The best 5-7 I have ever done. Not saying much, but still a stellar climb. That being said about 1/3 of the way up there is a very loose flake. I don't know if that is recent or not, but I imagine it is. Just be careful, a falling flake off of this climb could be really bad for your belayer or climbers on red slab.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : All Chalk And No Action (5.12a)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Mar 19, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: My first 5.12! Don't cheat yourself, start on the face and avoid the corner;it is way cooler. The sequence is stellar and is well protected. Beautiful vertical face, Granite, wonderful location...it does not get much better.


Location: UT : Triassic : Land of a Thousand Boulders : Desperate (V7)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Feb 17, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: If you want it is possible to just use the arete, i think it is about the same difficulty wise. Beta for short people i suppose.