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Member Since: Nov 20, 2008
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Erik S. Gillis


Point Rank: # 4,190
Total Points: 101
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 2
14 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Erik S. Gillis been climbing?










Contributions


All 100 | Routes 4 | Areas | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 26 | Posts 3 | Stars 32 | Ratings 28
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

137 lbs of Fury (FA)

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R (2)

Trad, 1 pitch, 60'

UT : Wasatch Range : Farmington Crag

Jun 23, 2010

Ryan in a Bikini (FA)

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c (2)

Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'

UT : Wasatch Range : Farmington Crag

Jun 10, 2010

Dazed and Refused

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a (1)

Trad, 1 pitch, 60'

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Bolt Slab

Oct 11, 2009

All Chalk And No Action

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a (55)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Green Adjective Gully

Sep 17, 2005

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
The crux.  Scary as hell, even with gear.

The crux. Scary as hell, even with gear.

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Monolith (5.11- V3 R)

Jan 24, 2010

the pumpy finsh

the pumpy finsh

ID : City of Rocks : ... : Crack of Doom (5.11c)

Sep 8, 2009

the cruxy start.

the cruxy start.

ID : City of Rocks : ... : Crack of Doom (5.11c)

Sep 8, 2009

last move to the third bolt, after that it is all pretty straightforward.

last move to the third bolt, after that it is all pretty straightforward.

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : All Chalk And No Action (5.12a)

Mar 19, 2009

pulling the cruxy start

pulling the cruxy start

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : All Chalk And No Action (5.12a)

Mar 19, 2009

I love this place.

I love this place.

UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon

Nov 26, 2008

Me on the 5-10 start.  Protected by a orange metolius half in the crack half out.  Pretty manky.

Me on the 5-10 start. Protected by a orange metolius half in the crack half out. Pretty manky.

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Green Adjective (5.9)

Nov 20, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : The Nerve (5.11a)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Oct 5, 2014

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Comments: I felt like the first pitch warrants an R rating if you don't have an extra knifeblade/lost arrow around. Entering the dihedral has a dicey 10C ish move, but if you make it through it you get rewarded with a good stance and good gear. I ended up placing a .3/.4 offset x4 just entering the dihedral that maybe would have held a long leader fall, it did hold my partner when he took a 10 ft leader fall. In the end we gave up and did the first pitch of Beckys and toproped the first pitch of the Nerv... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : Beckey Route (5.9 R)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Oct 5, 2014

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Comments: I really liked the first pitch, which was all we had time for. Is it R, i guess not if you trust the fixed bashie( which I didn't). Even then it is not too bad, maybe PG13, the crux is over quick and you are not going to take a ground fall. I didn't clip the bolts( which are awesome Fred Becky relics I bet) because there is a perfect cam placement right by them. The first pitch would be a good way to avoid the 5.11/10c R pitch of The Nerve.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Cliffs of Insanity : Bark (5.11b/c)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jul 20, 2014

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Comments: Committing! The whole thing has lichen and moss on it, otherwise this would be a pretty nice climb. It has very technical movement on a steep arete and then a difficult move past the bulge.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Neff's Canyon : Chadbourne Crag : Piston Bully (5.12b/c)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jun 26, 2014

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Comments: Next to the last bolt, looking to climbers right, there is a huge hollow flake that is about to come down. If you are climbing this don't use it, as tempting as that is. Go straight up from the second to last bolt, there are pockets to the left and you can stem into a nice stance to clip the chains. This is one of my all time favorite 12's in the Wasatch. Stick clip the second bolt unless you want a poll up the ass.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Black and White John and Ma... (5.10c)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: Great route. The original start and finish make for an epic lead! However, We spent some time today sussing out the beta to the 11 start and 11 finish and I have to say, if you do the route this way it is simply amazing, I would say the best climb I have done in LCC. The gear is there, except for some spice in the beginning, but it is hard to place. Can you say sustained?!!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers : Drunk Punk Oi (5.11b/c)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: Crux right at the top, and this thing is PUMPY. I don't know how it is usually done I went straight up at the second to last bolt, going right there is easier. I think going straight up is a stout beta intensive 11c if you go right at that spot the route is 11a/b. That's my opinion but i don't know how the route goes normally. Best sport lead on the wall.


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Central (Blooming Rose, Cla... : Red Rider (5.10a)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Aug 7, 2013

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Comments: harder than 10a I think. It felt as hard or harder than other 10bs around, but only for one move. Super fun!


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Central (Blooming Rose, Cla... : Claim Jumper (5.10c)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Aug 7, 2013

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Comments: agreed could be led with gear fairly safely....however this is a sport area so not many people have their rack handy. Super hard for the grade.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers : Dehumanized (5.11)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jul 26, 2013

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Comments: This thing is a beast in the summer sun. I think it would be much easier to do it in the shade! Go early morning or late afternoon. I used a #2 and .75 but a #1 might fit better for the middle section. Crux is getting to the chains! Sloper fest! Have fun, great route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Skinny Len Crimps (5.11a)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jul 23, 2013

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Comments: Fun, I agree with the 11a rating if you go to the right. I agree with Sam if you go straight up it is probably 12a. However, the crux is protected by the second bolt and while there may be decking potential clipping the third it eases up after the crux... All in all to go straight up is probably 12a PG13, but i thought it was way more fun than going right.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Main : John Doe 2 (5.11b PG13)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jul 22, 2013

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Comments: super fun movement on pretty good holds. Crux was in-between the bolts. Didn't bring the right gear so ended up running it out between bolts. Could have been a ground fall I suppose or at least pretty close. Definitely R if you do it that way. I nearly shitted myself for sure. Great route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers : Condor (5.12)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jul 22, 2013

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Comments: I agree that it is not sustained at all, I thought the climbing above the crux was in the 10 range, harder than uncensored society to the left. That being said, depending on your height the crux can be quite difficult. I think calling it mid or soft 11 is definitely sandbagging it. I am not great at rating things, but if I compare it to other boulder problems I have done, I would say it is harder than standard overhang V3 and is more like smiley right V4 if you wanna compare it to LCC boulder... more >>


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jul 11, 2013

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Comments: So I left my new 510 moccasins at the base of Myopia July 7th 2013. If any body finds them could you please email me at erkgillis@gmail.com thanks
Erik


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - The Pile : Right Pile (5.11d)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: Fun one! I have tried the crux both ways, going right and straight up. In my opinon going straight up is 11d according to BCC standards, going left softens the grade a bit. Either way its a fight to the finish.


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