Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Big Mac Couloir (WI4- M4-)
By: erik rieger When: May 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quite poor snow conditions 5/5/13. My partner and I soloed West Gully in just 30 minutes only to bail three pitches up the Big Mac due to hot temps, numerous wet slides, and isothermal mush. The summit ridge cornice is huge right now. A very cool-looking face. With neve conditions, this would be stellar.
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Flattop Mountain - S side : Steep is Flat (M5-6)
By: erik rieger When: Mar 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Could you elaborate a bit more? Once the first pitch is done, you're tunneled into a large chimney/corner system, and you'd have to try really hard to break from the line. So I'm a bit confused how you could climb the same route "differently." If you've done it, that's cool, I'll change the info. The climbing is steeper and more serious than the old route.
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road
By: erik rieger When: Feb 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some (new) potential access issues are brewing up the road with the mine. Keep a closer eye on your gear when leaving it at the base of a route than you might have in the past.
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Flattop Mountain - S side : Enter The Dragon (aka Old R... (5.7 M4 Steep Snow)
By: erik rieger When: Jan 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Decent amount of ice on this route as of Jan. 26 due to warm weather and lighter-than-average snowpack. The route was (surprisingly) rigged with rap stations, which seemed like the easiest descent. Really fun and moderate climbing.
|
Location: CT : Southeast : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
By: erik rieger When: Nov 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was just wondering why the decision was made to place glue-ins instead of expansion bolts here? Obviously the rock quality is entirely adequate for expansion bolts. Just wondering if this is the precedent for the area now. Thanks.
|
Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Ghost Dancer Arete (5.10+)
By: erik rieger When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Spicy, fun, challenging climbing throughout. The OW protects with small gear, but I would have liked a #4.5-5 for the roof crack. Great rock, but there are some large loose blocks and flakes that must be used—the normal Black Canyon spice, I understand. There's still 800-1,000' of climbing after you finish the offwidth, so definitely a Grade IV route to the rim.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Slice and Dice (5.12)
By: erik rieger When: Oct 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: very gorgeous climb
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Parade Rock : Soft Parade (5.11c)
By: erik rieger When: Oct 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bob said it's called "Soft Parade" because of a discussion with his partner about route names that contain oxymorons—the route in question being "Quiet Riot." Bob said he was convinced "Soft Parade" qualified as an oxymoron, even though his partner disagreed. The name stuck as a jest at his partner for disagreeing with him.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Organ : Death by Hands (5.10 C2 R)
By: erik rieger When: Oct 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the updated bolts Sam—great climb!
Pete Gallagher said the first pitch has the "friction coefficient of boogers," it's awesome for sure. My partner followed the second pitch, freeing everything after the lower pin, and thought it was the hardest "5.10" he's ever done. The rock at the start of the third pitch has the consistency of a sandcastle.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Square Rock : ... : Photo
By: erik rieger When: Sep 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rad.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : Dwarves Are People Too (5.10a)
By: erik rieger When: Sep 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good movement makes up for the rock quality, go do it if you're up there.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Square Rock : ... : Photo
By: erik rieger When: Sep 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Barefoot!?
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Citadel : Heart Of Norway (5.10c)
By: erik rieger When: Aug 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've done enough routes at Lumpy now to say this is well worth the longer approach. Probably one of the best in the 10+ range up there.
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Land of the Rising Moon : Moonrise Variation (5.10d)
By: erik rieger When: Aug 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome route. Sick position.
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Citadel Crag : Citadel Crack (5.10b)
By: erik rieger When: Aug 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good roof climbing on this one. The gear is tricky below the second roof, but it's good if you use the correct pod for a purple or green Camalot. No need for small nuts.
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Spelunk Spire : Old Dogs New Trick (V5)
By: erik rieger When: Aug 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hard. Nice history on this one, thanks for the info. Scarpelli continues to inspire.
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Plumb Line Crag : Big Pink (5.11b)
By: erik rieger When: Aug 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: At the base of this route, Scarpelli remarked, "That's the hardest 5.11b in the world."
|
Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Station 13 : Superstition (5.10)
By: erik rieger When: Jun 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is really good
|
Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Omega Buttress : Omega Crack (5.12b)
By: erik rieger When: Jun 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing is burly right off the deck.
What's the deal with the old fixed line to the left of the route?
|
Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress : The Snaz (5.10a)
By: erik rieger When: Jun 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Highly recommend "The Snazzette" variation and the 10+ roof on the last pitch. Four double rope rappels get you down to the base quickly.
|
Location: CT : Southeast : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : Marmalade (5.10c/d)
By: erik rieger When: May 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: very painful, often wet
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Pinhead (5.10b)
By: erik rieger When: May 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: this route is pretty good, you can climb to the upper anchors in the right facing corner and still lower with a 60. there's a bolt where it gets thin up high.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Monster Tower : North Ridge (5.11)
By: erik rieger When: Apr 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Every pitch on this route is excellent! Not sure why anyone would skip the first pitch, it's an awesome handcrack with sweet lie-backing up high! The curving crack is as good as it gets, run out the wide crack up top to the anchor, it's fun and quite secure. Crux pitch is hard off the deck then eases up, one #5 is nice on this pitch. The left chimney on the fourth pitch is super fun and the last pitch is wild. There is some loose rock on the ledges between pitches but our crew climbed this... more >>
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : West Face : Men at Work (5.11)
By: erik rieger When: Apr 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Single 60 is ok for rap.
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Parachute Rock : Slip Slidin' Away (5.10c)
By: erik rieger When: Apr 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is excellent! It protects fine with a couple small HBs and TCUs.
|
RSS Feed
