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Member Since: Sep 18, 2012
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Erik-Pikas
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Total Points: 187
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 73 | Routes 12 | Areas 1 | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 12 | Posts 12 | Stars 25 | Ratings 3

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall : Dirty V (5.8) : Photo
By: Erik-Pikas When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: This is a great photo Ted! Thanks for posting it!


Location: NY : Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall : Niether (5.9)
By: Erik-Pikas When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: We finally added chains to the anchor of Neither. Also, per feedback from several climbers we moved a couple of the upper bolts higher, making the crux significantly safer.


Location: NY : Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall
By: Erik-Pikas When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: We finally added chains at the anchor of Neither, and per feedback of several climbers we moved a couple of the bolts higher, making the crux significantly safer.


Location: NY : Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall : Niether (5.9)
By: Erik-Pikas When: May 13, 2014

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Comments: CPay, I think you must be referring to the anchor on Elapsid which is just to the right of Neither. The newly placed "retro bolts" on the anchor are 5.75" bolts. Much deeper than the originals. The anchor on Neither is also (2) 5.75" bolts, but there are no old bolts near it.


Location: NY : Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall : Bearly Hanging On Direct (5.12-)
By: Erik-Pikas When: May 13, 2014

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Comments: I agree with you cPay- beta removed! Thanks for the feedback!


Location: NY : Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall : Bearly Hanging On (5.10a)
By: Erik-Pikas When: Apr 29, 2014

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Comments: The first bolt was placed with the intention of climbing the arÍte. At one point you do go slightly left, but stay out of the chimney to the left. It's dirty, and not much fun, but the arÍte is really fun and takes some figuring. The second bolt is really camouflaged; I even have to look hard to see it, but it's there. You can clip it very comfortably from standing on the ledge, then you're meant to step right along the ledge and continue up directly above the direct start.


Location: NY : Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall
By: Erik-Pikas When: Aug 2, 2013

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Comments: There are some longer sustained 5.12 sport routes that stay dry in moderate rain further up above with a bit of a bushwhack to access. The local FD would give you the shirts off their backs, but they do not have the capability to rescue you from up there, so I'm not posting directions. But if you are self sufficient and motivated to explore, the routes are there, and quite good. There is also plenty of new route potential back there.


Location: NY : Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall
By: Erik-Pikas When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: There was an accident here on Sunday 5/5/13 related to re-threading the rope at the anchors/lowering. My most heartfelt wishes for a speedy recovery for all involved.
Please, if you climb here (or anywhere) please make sure you understand how to re- thread your anchors, double check and make a clear plan for lowering vs rappelling with your belayer before you leave the ground.


Location: NY : Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall : Thunder Down Under (5.12)
By: Erik-Pikas When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: The face below the roof has some flakey exfoliating spots which are clearing up as the route sees more ascents. The rock above the roof is solid and clean.


Location: NY : Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall : Crotalid (5.10b)
By: Erik-Pikas When: Nov 1, 2012

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Comments: Glad you liked the route Joe. I don't think it's necessary to do a sidepull at the roof though.


Location: NY : Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall : Elapsid (5.7)
By: Erik-Pikas When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: This anchor was recently retro bolted with 5.75"x 1/2" Power bolts and chains. (most bolts here are 5.75" x1/2" Power bolts)


Location: NY : Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall
By: Erik-Pikas When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: This is sandstone. It really needs a full day to dry out after rain. It is 1000 times more fun when dry.


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