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Erik Corkran


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Aug 10, 2006
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Point Rank: # 4,108
Total Points: 98
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 42 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvments | Comments 28 | Posts | Stars 6 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Navajo Peak : North Face (5.4)
By: Erik Corkran When: Jun 26, 2002

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Comments: When I did this a while back, we stumbled on some variation around 5.6 or so. Went up the face for two pitches, the first long and about 5.5, the second shorter but steeper, 5.6. Neither had very good gear. Dropped us off right near the summit (found a short crack to scramble up around there somewhere). I think we did not follow the ramp that the normal route follows. There was quite a bit of snow around so it was hard to pick out this ramp at the time.

Was a while back so don't remember e... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Quandary Peak : Inwood Arete (5.4 R)
By: Erik Corkran When: May 29, 2002

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Comments: Glad to see routes like this in here, didn't know they were posted! I have been on this twice (well sort of) with some interesting experiences.

The first time we started about where indicated but ended up left a bit in a system of strange brown rock (that was not very good). We were late anyway, so we climbed up a ways then bailed. Climbing was much harder and steeper than expected on the route, and some very questionable rock (good indicator of being off-route). Partly could be that we w... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Zowie : South Face (5.8+)
By: Erik Corkran When: May 29, 2002

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Comments: When we climbed this (a while back), we ended up on the east face for the final pitch. There was an interesting, varying-width crack toward climber's right. Started up this, but it widened to about #4 Camalot size after some initial smaller sections. We had a #3 and one big hex, so traversed left instead.

Found an interesting crack/face combination with several old fixed pins (at least 3 or 4, maybe more, fairly close together near the top). Pins looked like they had been th... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Lower Progressive (5.9+)
By: Erik Corkran When: May 28, 2002

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Comments: I followed this a couple of days ago. 9+ seems like a fair grade. Seemed easier than Middle Parallel Space.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Candlestick (5.7)
By: Erik Corkran When: May 28, 2002

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Comments: Some placements in there for #3 (and probably #4) Big-bro's in there. Pulled out a 4BB at one point and it was too big. #3 was right size but I find them hard to place so finally just burrowed in and up a somewhat long way until I found a crack in the back. It took a small hex, #2 Camalot then opened to #4-4.5 size near the exit. I tunnelled through the small hole at the top. Just wondered which way other people went to exit -- through the hole or out the right... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Wolf's Tooth (5.8)
By: Erik Corkran When: May 7, 2002

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Comments: Well since this is one of my favorite routes around and I have done a "few" wide cracks and chimneys, I wanted to give my opinion.

I feel like this is 5.8+. It is strenuous and may have numerous 5.8 moves, hence the '+'. I don't think that it has any move with technical difficulty of 5.9. The bottom is sustained crack, but the dihedral helps a bit. Offwidth is awkward but there are numerous ways to do it, and doesn't involve anything I would equate with 5.9 offwidth, like having to get both... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7)
By: Erik Corkran When: May 6, 2002

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Comments: "Squeeze chimney [stuff]"? Sure you could face climb it, do what you want. Personally I like the squeeze.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : MaxiLash (5.11a)
By: Erik Corkran When: Aug 30, 2001

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Comments: I've always wanted to try this one. Now after reading the description, I want to try it even more, though I am not sure I will make that 6 foot mark. The one thing that seems like it might help is to carry at least some of the beer to the base of the climb, so you don't have to walk the few hundred feet back to the car to get it.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7)
By: Erik Corkran When: Aug 30, 2001

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Comments: Just seems weird that I didn't have a comment on this route, since it is one of my favorites anywhere. Having done it with and without the #5, I would say if in doubt bring (borrow?) it, but if you find yourself wanting it, you will probably want it several times. I think the squeeze chimney and the ramp/crack leading up to it is my favorite part, though the whole climb is great. Seems like I stayed mostly inside the squeeze, but then again I like squishing myself into weird holes in ro... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Squat Rock : Lichen or Not (5.9)
By: Erik Corkran When: Aug 18, 2001

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Comments: This is a great route! I haven't climbed it in a while, since the rock seems to be closed (hoping it is/will open again). If you saw anybody out there in the winter doing laps on self belay, well, that was probably me (at the very least, I climbed it a lot).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Osiris (5.7)
By: Erik Corkran When: Aug 18, 2001

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Comments: It's actually not a bad route, I just didn't have much fun on it. Maybe I was having a weird day. Also there was the time (on pitch 3 I think) that for some reason I didn't realize you could use two of the flared cracks at once, and had been climbing only one of them, making it feel quite hard for 5.7. If I were to recommend a nice big 5.7 though, it would be Kor's Flake without a doubt. Ok enough babbling from me for now.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Osiris (5.7)
By: Erik Corkran When: Aug 16, 2001

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Comments: I've heard fairly mixed reviews of this route also. Some people love it, some well, think it sucks. I did it a long time ago, and didn't like it very well.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : Horn's Mother (5.11a)
By: Erik Corkran When: Aug 7, 2001

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Comments: This is a great route, crux is tough (thanks Tony for leading it after I fell off a few times). 2nd pitch very sustained also.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Grand Course (5.11-)
By: Erik Corkran When: Jul 17, 2001

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Comments: We did the 5.9 variation on the second pitch and it was nice, though it felt pretty hard for 5.9 (harder than Werk Supp or Over the Hill top pitch I thought). Also there is a dead bird in the crack of the 2nd pitch (yuck). As for the first pitch, 0 stars in my book. I am mostly a crack climber and even like weird grungy things but this has more bird crap on it than I have seen in a long time (there was another comment about this but maybe it got lost). Add to that the less-than-enjoyable pol... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Knee Catcher (5.6)
By: Erik Corkran When: Jul 9, 2001

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Comments: While I wouldn't drive all the way up there just to do this (and fight the parking, etc), it isn't a bad route. As mentioned, there are lots of hidden features inside the crack, and it protects with normal gear. I don't remember doing much of any actual offwidth technique, but it has been a while since I have done this route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Pool of Blood (5.9)
By: Erik Corkran When: Jun 28, 2001

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Comments: Just did this last night. Great climb! Definitely long runners, and more than one #3 Camalot. The Pool of Blood crack is beautiful, but watch for loose junk in Duh Dihedral.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock : Cornered (5.9)
By: Erik Corkran When: Jun 26, 2001

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Comments: Nice comment Richard. There are many of us in that group of people wanting to push ourselves but in reasonable safety that you mentioned, and I for one appreciate when routes are well protected. Those who do not want (or need) all of these bolts of course can just skip some, in the same manner that people often run out "easy" sections of a crack (which could be protected anywhere).


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Hot Stuff (5.10)
By: Erik Corkran When: Jun 19, 2001

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Comments: Just saw under comments for "Hey Good Lookin'" (right next to this route) that the first clip is gone from Hot Stuff. Sorry to hear that. I do not do much sport climbing, so I usually feel less secure on sport/face routes than in cracks, and I appreciate the bolts being there! I certainly hope it reappears. This is a nice route.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Idiot Wind (5.10c)
By: Erik Corkran When: Jun 14, 2001

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Comments: This particular one I haven't done, though that descent trail is more than familiar. Barefoot is the only way. Ok maybe not the only, just that the trail isn't really all that bad.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Werk Supp (5.9)
By: Erik Corkran When: Jun 12, 2001

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Comments: Somehow I never realized that there were bolts on top of the first pitch. Always did the long runner and belay at base of P2, as someone mentioned. This is a great route, though personally I don't like the first pitch very well (the 2nd one makes up for it though).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Turnkorner (5.10a)
By: Erik Corkran When: Jun 11, 2001

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Comments: We did it! Very happy to say that we got through the offwidth. Was postponed one week but we got there yesterday. Looking up from the base, I was happy to see it looking as imposing as always.

Joseffa led the first pitches (did as 2, up to under the first fist roof/dihedral, w/the bird crap on slab). Definitely agree the rock quality on those was pretty scary!

I led next 2, and found the 3rd pitch (first OW) much different than expected, with more layback and use of face holds. Fell once ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Turnkorner (5.10a)
By: Erik Corkran When: May 31, 2001

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Comments: Ok just one more quick one (hmm it would be nice to be able to go back and edit/combine comments). Like I said, I'm hoping to go through OW style (mostly because I prefer being smashed into some horrible offwidth to balancing up a scary face). Hoping to have some pictures to post, I have been wanting to climb this route ever since I saw it. Hopefully something other than a pic of me falling off of the scary face after bailing out of the offwidth method, hehe.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Turnkorner (5.10a)
By: Erik Corkran When: May 31, 2001

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Comments: Well maybe I'll be speaking differently early next week (planning to climb this route on Sunday).

Keep seeing a lot about climbing around the offwidth with 10a face. I notice the Rossiter guide mentions 10a on right wall .i.e. face). Gillett's guide (and beta from a friend) says the offwidth isn't that bad. Certainly can't image it could be close to as hard as Big Baby (which I have looked at, but not tried).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Eumenides (5.8)
By: Erik Corkran When: May 29, 2001

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Comments: Well I guess it's about time I got to looking around this page. I was the one that told Matt that pitch one was the only one I liked. I really don't like the route Euminides at all. The last time I did it I kept wondering why we didn't just go straight up the dihedral and stop wandering around. Why did I do I route that I don't like twice? Well the first time was my first "big" route, seemed very epic and scary so I thought I would do it again sometime. The second time we got caught in a d... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : The Guillotine (5.10c)
By: Erik Corkran When: May 29, 2001

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Comments: Small variation for pitch 3 (also known as being off route). The standard crack looked weird so we took one to the left, which turned offwidth after about 20'. Thrash up this a little longer, then you can step right and join the regular pitch 4. I can't remember if we belayed before the usual pitch 4 or combined 3 & 4.


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