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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Simple Suff (5.10a/b) : Photo
By: ericcr When: May 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: i wish that Dennis would pay as much attention to how he clips his ancient carabiners as he pays to coordinating his climber's outerwear.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Simple Suff (5.10a/b) : Photo
By: ericcr When: May 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: you're right, slim. if a leader at his limit were to fall on that piece, that carabiner would snap like a pretzel.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6) : Photo
By: ericcr When: May 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: greatness begins
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Ventre de Boeuf (5.9 PG13)
By: ericcr When: Apr 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: awesome route. fun, aesthetic, energetic climbing.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Absurdland (5.8) : Photo
By: ericcr When: Apr 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: great job tricia!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Last Frontier (5.10b/c)
By: ericcr When: Nov 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: atypical movement.
there is sometimes an anchor 40' up around a chockstone/pinch, but it comes and goes. there is a tree another 30' up dirty, easy climbing that also sometimes has an anchor.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : 10,000 Restless Virgins (5.10d) : Photo
By: ericcr When: Oct 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: you didn't even need the gear beta.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Yellow Ridge (5.7)
By: ericcr When: Oct 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: no move on the corner start may be harder than 5.7, but you do place your gear from unpleasant stances. (there is plenty of it. totally G.)
i mistakenly led the offwidth with my right leg jammed. i found this to be strenuous, secure, and difficult to get out of at the top. i agree with dolgio's assessment that (if you want to offwidth it), the left side in may be more... fun?
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R)
By: ericcr When: Sep 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: the beta available is pretty accurate and if you use your brain the climbing is logical and the protection reasonable. (the runouts are real but easy, as everyone notes, and the cruxes have pro.)
we found the approach to be tricky. not being a yosemite local, i contemplated crossing dicey slabs way too many times. ("should this look like third class to me??") all we lost was time- so i will say this:
when the supertopo approach beta says "pretty much walk straight towards the face of half dome... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : 10,000 Restless Virgins (5.10d)
By: ericcr When: Sep 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: how can this route's amazingness be properly quantified?
the climbing is difficult, continuous, aesthetic, and varied. it is well protected. the location is unique and pretty, and the route is rarely crowded.
how lucky were those guys to show up in the 80s and find this thing unclimbed.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Miss Bailey (5.6 PG13)
By: ericcr When: Sep 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: an incredible hidden gem, a good standby if you're trying to climb in this area on a crowded weekend. the chimney is much less of an ordeal than it looks. before you begin climbing it you scramble up ten feet or so, and end up on another ledge- so what looks like a horrid runout from the bottom is already shorter. the first part is the hardest, you get footholds and eventually a jug rail.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Wegetables I've Never Seen ... (5.10a)
By: ericcr When: Sep 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: the opening moves are pretty safe with a good spot, as well. if your belayer stands on top of the block near the base, their hands are at your knees when you start that sequence.
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