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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Stronghold Dome : Big Time (5.10c)
By: Eric Ruljancich When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe that it is a Scott Ayers route that goes at 5.12 or so. Beware that this is 5.12 slab. We tried it during a warm day this spring, and got spanked. I suggest trying it is cooler temps if you want to keep at least a little rubber on your soles.
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Microskunk Area : Microskunks with Cholla Coa... (5.10b)
By: Eric Ruljancich When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great, long, and fairly sustained climb. The crux moves are sweet!
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Jailhouse Rock : Just Punishment (5.12)
By: Eric Ruljancich When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Proud send my friend.
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Wall
By: Eric Ruljancich When: May 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "As of April 22, 2009, most of Snow Creek Wall is subject to a formal closure to protect falcons that are nesting on Library Ledge, on Outer Space, the most famous climb in Leavenworth. The closure will remain in place through the nesting season, which is expected to end July 31, 2009."
http://www.washingtonclimbers.org/Current/LeavFalcon.htm
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Business Time Wall
By: Eric Ruljancich When: Apr 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh Don't worry. Hiphopotamus and Rhymenosaurus will soon have their very own crag. I'm not done with my Flight of the Conchords references yet.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Hairpin Turn (Lefthand Wall... : No Slack at GAC (5.7 R)
By: Eric Ruljancich When: Mar 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Poor bolting and suspect rock. Probably doesn't deserve a full R rating, but since this a climb that a lot of beginners get on it is worth letting them know that blowing a clip would really suck.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Chimney Rock : Single Lens Reflex (5.10)
By: Eric Ruljancich When: Mar 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is exciting one to jump on when tired, and at the end of several hard days of climbing. That is to say I had to work and swear a lot harder than anticipated. The climbing is sustained and committing.
When I got to the chopped bolts, I thought hmmm, either these are the anchors described in the book or I have farther to go. Not knowing the answer I continued up. A good 8 feet above my last piece I started to doubt my decision. While balancing on thin holds with no pro available ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold
By: Eric Ruljancich When: Mar 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just a heads up.
A friend of mine was recently ticketed for parking on the east side of the boulder where the trail for Stronghold Dome and the Rockfellow Group begins. The other side of the boulder has a no parking sign, but the side she was ticketed on (where climbers commonly park) does not have one.
The ticket was 75 dollars - A pretty steep price to pay for parking in an established parking spot with no sign. The ticked was issued on a Saturday.
Please post if you have any other inform... more >>
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Stronghold Dome : Big Time (5.10c)
By: Eric Ruljancich When: Feb 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I suggest linking the first two pitches together into one long, and really fun one as the belay at the first set of anchors is uncomfortable and one of the bolts a bit suspect. If you climb it without gear, it is going to feel very run out, a small rack will improve your experience. The 10c variation is contrived, better to climb the natural line of resistance on the right. There is a decent run out on the upper half, but the climbing is moderate. After the above described mid anchors, the ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Outcroppings : Outcroppings - Cave Wall : Shadows of the Mind (5.9)
By: Eric Ruljancich When: Jan 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best climbs on the wall. Fun moves and good rock.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Outcroppings : Outcroppings - Cave Wall : Matterhorness (5.10)
By: Eric Ruljancich When: Jan 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun moves on this climb, especially near the top. Pumpy and somewhat sustained. Unfortunately the bolting job could use a little tweaking. A few are awkward to clip, especially for shorter people, and one leaves the bottom 'biner of your draw resting over a 90 degree edge (don't fall on that one)
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Outcroppings : Outcroppings - Cave Wall : Bitter Table for One (5.9)
By: Eric Ruljancich When: Jan 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The tree is no longer. Solid 5.9 now. Watch yourself climbing above the ledge. A fall here with a loose belay would equal broken ankles, or impalement on the agave growing right under the bolt. The last three feet are rather grainy and crumbly.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Jailhouse Rock : Crime and Punishment (5.11)
By: Eric Ruljancich When: Mar 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, maybe it's time stop climbing and start playing croquet. That is one tricky little sequence. I looked a long time for the key to unlock it, but couldn't find it. Maybe next time. Problem solving is one of the reason why I like climbing - and guess I have a problem to work on. Also very glad that bolt is there.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Jailhouse Rock : Crime and Punishment (5.11)
By: Eric Ruljancich When: Mar 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmmm, maybe we were tired, and maybe the stars weren't aligned right, but the top of this climb past the bolt seemed incredibly hard. My partner who just had just led sentenced to hang, couldn't do it. I couldn't do it either. Felt more like 5.12+. We are hoping it is because a hold blew off, but more likely that we just aren't very good climbers ;)
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Sun Spot Crags : Solar Flare (5.11)
By: Eric Ruljancich When: Mar 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is now a gear climb. Sport climbers need not apply :)
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Forgotten Wall, Control Tow... : Eskimo Roll (5.10)
By: Eric Ruljancich When: Mar 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun traverse at the top. Easy but run out climbing after third bolt.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Hairpin Turn (Lefthand Wall... : Family Affair (5.10b/c)
By: Eric Ruljancich When: Feb 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If I was actually on this route, which I think I was, it was certainly not 5.9 I climbed it after a party bailed off, and I would say it felt more like 5.10.
I only climbed the first half to the anchors, and it was quite enjoyable. There is an exciting traverse to the left after the second bolt that could result it a painful pendulum collision with the flake to the right, but the climbing is quality.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Forgotten Wall, Control Tow...
By: Eric Ruljancich When: Jan 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've put together a topo of this excellent area. Hope it helps you find the climbs a bit easier.
http://www.pikaconsulting.com/climbing/ForgottenWall.pdf (PDF File)
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Forgotten Wall, Control Tow... : Blood Book (5.10-)
By: Eric Ruljancich When: Jan 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a excellent climb. Great gear, fun moves. Well worth the hike if you were just to do this route.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Forgotten Wall, Control Tow... : Flight Stimulator (5.10)
By: Eric Ruljancich When: Jan 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Strange, awkward moves needed to get under the roof. Pulling the roof is fun. Rock is very suspect, blew off baseball sized chunk.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Sun Spot Crags : Sun Baked (5.10+)
By: Eric Ruljancich When: Jan 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This Climb has some fun moves, but the rock is of very poor quality. I pulled off several holds on my accent. Even worse are the two large, and loose blocks, one of which is ready to come off. If you do this climb wear your helmet and be really careful. Better choice might be just to stay away.
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