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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Autumn (5.11a)
By: Eric Peers When: Nov 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anybody know what the "variation" goes at to the right of p3? You hit the anchors, and run it out up a right trending 20 ft dihedral to a nice 2 chain anchor. Then it's 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor - bolts look fairly new and are dark red in color.
You start by traversing left, clip first bolt. Then push into a corner, clip. Undercling the roof, clip again. Balancy move over the roof, then clip #4. Up to a nice rest stance, then #5. Hard mantle / undercling to a reachy right handhold... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Culp-Bossier (5.8+)
By: Eric Peers When: Sep 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this on 9/3/2008. Nice little route.
I found the "dicey" sections to be adequately protected. A set of wires nicely protected my partner's 7s section on P7. The 5.6s runout wasn't bad at all - I got pro every 15 feet or so. Small Aliens or TCUs are nice on this route. (black & purple Alien / #0.1 & 0.2 Camalots). If you belay from the ledge at the top of P2, then a 60m rope will not reach the next ledge for p3. (Had to simulclimb 20 feet). You should probably set your belay a bit abo... more >>
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Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Windows On the World (5.12b)
By: Eric Peers When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Overall - an excellent route. Nicely done Richard, Mark and Joe!
I found p1 to be a bit trickier than 5.9. maybe it's my Boulder Canyon upbringing.... I'd give it tricky 10a-b at the bottom easing up as you ascend.
The 5.11 p2 variation was quite tricky at the bottom, a bit heady as you moved up 2 bolts, and then pretty cool to the anchors.
P3 is a great little pitch. Well bolted. Very sustained.
I found p4 to be exceptionally hard between bolts 2&3 and then again at bolt 5 once you're on th... more >>
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Location: CO : Empire : Goat Rock : Ram (5.10c)
By: Eric Peers When: Jun 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can probably get away without pro on this if you're comfortable with the grade. The runout section is fairly easy. I carried several Camalots (#0.75 to #3) and placed none of them. It was simpler to keep moving left.
The finish was the only hard part of the route - probably 5.10d'ish in difficulty. The rest of the route wasn't very hard.
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Location: CO : Empire : Goat Rock : No Goats, No Glory (5.12a)
By: Eric Peers When: Jun 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would give this more on the order of a 5.12b. The middle part of pitch 2 felt somewhat difficult for my 5'7" frame. Very reachy.
The 5.11 section on the start of the second pitch was stellar. Very tricky climbing, but very doable.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Tuesday Afternoon (5.11)
By: Eric Peers When: May 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We climbed this on Thursday - thanks for knocking the big stuff off. There's a lot of sand on it, and a fair bit of loose rock still. I'd give the boulder-ey section a 5.11c/d for one move and the remainder roughly a 5.10... so maybe 5.11 as an average.
But it's a pretty tricky boulder move off that left hand to the sidepull. Doesn't feel very secure.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Free Fall (5.12a)
By: Eric Peers When: Nov 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had trouble onsighting this route with the crux clip as well. (I thought it was clip #6 - the one on the face, above the sloping crack, right before you go around the arete.) My right hand was in the sloping crack, left hand on the little side pull and no feet... I discovered the crux clip is actually ok for a 5'7" climber with 0 ape index if:
Clip easier bolt #4 (I thought it was #5).
Left hand on farthest left chalked hold, sideways crimp pocket. Approximately 1 foot left... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Ripcord (5.12a)
By: Eric Peers When: Sep 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Josh - I tightened the second nut with my nuttool - bolt hanger is on there nice and tight again. This was around 6pm 9/24/2006.
Still may need some locktite to prevent this in the future.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Green Slab Direct (5.9)
By: Eric Peers When: Oct 29, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: We tried to find the Fixed pin. It doesn't exist. The pitch got thinner and thinner and thinner until we hit Myke's stopper. Then of course it evaporated. The 60 degree ramp to the right of the obvious hand crack affords some decent pro.
We set an anchor 10 ft above & to the right of the fixed nut. Plenty of space in that crack for a #3 Camalot, big blue tricam, and a #1 Camalot.
Sweet pitch otherwise though. Nice combination of face moves and crack climbing. Good pro with nuts in... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: Eric Peers When: Oct 22, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route on 10/21/01. Lots of loose rock on p1. It freakin' sucked. Led 3/4 of the pitch and then let my partner do the rest. There's a runout section with crap pro beneath it (nasty fall) for about 15-20 ft. I would classify it as 2-3 moves of 5.9-5.10 "Dream Canyon sport climbing without a bolt". He climbed up it and the rock basically moved and a couple of pieces fell out. "shudder"
P2 was much easier but still had loose rock. P3 was easy. P4 (crux pitch) was a super super nice lead.... more >>
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