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Wet start pitch 1. In the spring, this is complete...


Member Since: Dec 26, 2009
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Eric Wright

Point Rank: # 529
Total Points: 1,267
Last Year: 328
Last 30 Days: 6
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 315 | Routes 7 | Areas 1 | Photos 223 | Page Improvements | Comments 67 | Posts 10 | Stars 7 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Just Another Duncan Route (WI4-5 M5) : Photo
By: Eric Wright When: Jul 7, 2015

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Comments: Mark Wilford is still in the game. He is a industry rep and lives on the Front Range. He makes it down for the ice festival in Ouray. Perhaps his most outrageous feat of mixed climbing was his solo of the Eigerwand 1938 route. Back in the '80s, I believe. He wrote a gripping account of his adventure.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Subterfuge (WI6 M7+)
By: Eric Wright When: Apr 11, 2015

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Comments: So, gentlemen, let us be clear. This is a one pitch variation to a three pitch, 15? year old, mega classic, The Talisman! A route that has been inspiring and terrifying mixed climbers longer than many folks reading this have been climbing. This one pitch variation (which you have claimed as a three pitch first ascent) is the first contribution to be established on the dark side with top rope/rappel pre-inspection, then of course bolted on rappel, perhaps even top roped into submission then fina... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Senator Gulch (WI3-4)
By: Eric Wright When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: Doligo, not sure why you say there is "low avalanche danger". That gully goes up a thousand feet, plus. It runs from time to time. If you are on the upper half of the ice climb, one is out of the main deposit zone, but the approach, prep, and belay area at base of the ice climb is in danger. I have climbed there and climbed over and stood belaying on the avalanche debris at the base of route. Spooky on a warm, sunny day. A huge gully that faces south.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Flatirons : East Face Gully aka Silk Ro... (WI3 M5 R)
By: Eric Wright When: Mar 21, 2015

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Comments: East Gully is East Gully. Winter, Spring, Summer, or Fall. Snowy, icy, rainy or leaf strewn.
Silk Road climbs most of East Gully then exits up left wall. Following a dagger that hangs off from the slab above. There is a little, tiny tree there to sling near top of overlap. If there is some ice and snow there, follow that to the summit. Bravely linking runnels of snow and ice out on the main face, delaying escaping to the summit ridge as long as possible. Take your crampons off as soon as you are... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : O'Donnell's Route (WI4+)
By: Eric Wright When: Mar 14, 2015

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Comments:
Austin T. arriving to base of route.
Austin T. arriving to base of route.



Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : O'Donnell's Route (WI4+) : Photo
By: Eric Wright When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: This route is easily done with double 50 meter ropes.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Snow Blind Friend, Walk the... (5.9+ WI4+ M6 X) : Photo
By: Eric Wright When: Jan 31, 2015

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Comments: Jeff Lowe (according to Steve House) chose to do an end run around this. There are three gullies here to choose from. Garrett has chosen the center and most obvious line, which has poor gear. Jeff, as the story is told by Steve, being the clever alpinist with two clients in tow, chose the hidden, easy gully out right. This is however not the direct line of the waterfall itself, but for an alpinist dragging clients on a first ascent au vue, Jeff made the choice with greatest likelihood o... more >>


Location: ozman : Great Season goods! : Photo
By: Eric Wright When: Aug 22, 2014

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Comments: Did I take that or your wife?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Snow Blind Friend, Walk the... (5.9+ WI4+ M6 X)
By: Eric Wright When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: All the 100 year, shiny plated chain has been removed. There is one anchor that is partially in the waterfall that has skinny, camouflaged chain and stainless steel bolts. The rest of the anchors now have rope instead of chain to a single power point with a mallion. Feel free to augment this with your own tat. Anchors still have three points of contact, which is important considering how bad the rock is.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Snow Blind Friend, Walk the... (5.9+ WI4+ M6 X) : Photo
By: Eric Wright When: Mar 25, 2014

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Comments: Steve House showed Frank and Eric Wright a photo in Jan 2014 that SH showed Jeff Lowe. On that photo, there are three gullies that one can climb as variations for pitch three. Jeff indicated that he and clients climbed the right gully. Eric Welborn and Noah M climbed the middle gully. Frank, Garrett, and Eric Wright chose the middle gully and have also climbed the left gully which is just on other side of rock bollard that makes up half the anchor on top of pitch 2.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Snow Blind Friend, Walk the... (5.9+ WI4+ M6 X) : Photo
By: Eric Wright When: Jan 31, 2014

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Comments: If you look carefully, you can see two strands of 10.2 right next to Grover's boot. That encircles a 200 lb block. This is the rap anchor of pitch two. Steve House found this one and only traditional anchor on the entire route to be unnerving as it is hidden under the snow in winter.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Snow Blind Friend, Walk the... (5.9+ WI4+ M6 X) : Photo
By: Eric Wright When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: Chad, I see you guys climbed route on a single strand. The leader can't possibly take advantage of all the protection possibilities if you neglect the obvious advantages of the double rope system. No small wonder that you did not use the two bolts on pitch five. When I led pitch 5 in the dark early this winter on double ropes, I found and clipped the first bolt then climbed a glorious sheet of paper thin ice right through the crux. This was just left of the bolt and right of the orange rotten r... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Snow Blind Friend, Walk the... (5.9+ WI4+ M6 X) : Photo
By: Eric Wright When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: Chad, nice to have met you last night at Chicks with Picks fundraiser for the Ouray Ice Park and your lady friend in Chris Noble's new book. Very cool. This picture of you following pitch seven is very exciting. So much ice! You even got a screw in. Really inspiring, can't wait to do another lap and climb so much ice. Still thin and dicey though.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Snow Blind Friend, Walk the... (5.9+ WI4+ M6 X) : Photo
By: Eric Wright When: Jan 10, 2014

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Comments: That's the top of pitch four. Four more pitches to go. This area collects a lot of snow in the dead of winter, so you will have to troll for the anchors in the snow unless someone dug them out for you recently. It's also right in the line of fire, but it has the only solid rock that also allows for a clean pull of ropes. Belaying here is dangerous. Belaying off to the left might be safer from
objects falling. It would be best to regard this as a rap anchor with an
excellent and clean pull of the... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Walk Irene, Submitted as Go... (M5-6 PG13) : Photo
By: Eric Wright When: Jan 5, 2014

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Comments: This the chimney in the Patagonia ad.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Snow Blind Friend, Walk the... (5.9+ WI4+ M6 X)
By: Eric Wright When: Dec 5, 2013

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Comments: Drinking and climbing together sounds better than using the Internet to communicate.
As to the pins that have been recently "found" at the end of Dec. 2013:
We attempted to fix two on pitch one which appear to be gone.
Pitch 3 has a very old pre-World War II pin at the belay which belongs to Frank, which we placed on a early trip up wall before we busted our asses carrying SS Fixe bolts, plated chain, quicklinks, electric drill, spare battery packs, etc., up the wall to create anchors that would... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : M6 Corner (WI4+ M6) : Photo
By: Eric Wright When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: Noah,
Climbed first pitch Nov. 29, 2013.
It had ice on it! Really fun.
Thank you for taking the time to post and recommend this route.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Snow Blind Friend, Walk the... (5.9+ WI4+ M6 X) : Photo
By: Eric Wright When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: Nov. 3, 2013:
Second step of first pitch. Usually the steepest and most strenuous part of route, though plenty of gear.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Snow Blind Friend, Walk the... (5.9+ WI4+ M6 X) : Photo
By: Eric Wright When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: November 3rd, 2013.


Location: Jon Miller on the WS : Telluride Ice : Photo
By: Eric Wright When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: That bit to the right looks fantastic.
Lets get on it this year if it comes in.


Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : The Pool Wall : The Alcove : Tropical Depression (5.11+)
By: Eric Wright When: Oct 8, 2013

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Comments: As for the first bolt, Garrett put all the bolts in and hung all the gear. I helped from the ground. I can't micro manage everything(especially not him).

In addition, that rock is crazy chossy, you can't just bolt where you want, but I agree a fall at the first bolt could wreak a biner. If you tap with your hammer around that area, you will not find much solid rock.


Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : The Pool Wall : The Alcove : Tropical Depression (5.11+)
By: Eric Wright When: Oct 8, 2013

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Comments: Highlander,

You must have a really big dog.

I totally agree with you. Those chains were the wrong ones dragged out of the back of the truck. Oops. There is three of them though?!
At any rate, they need to be changed out. I will nag Garrett about that again.

If you change them, I will pay you for the chain and links and buy you a beer.

And belay you for a burn on your project:-)


Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : The Misfits Wall : London Dungeon (5.11-) : Photo
By: Eric Wright When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: That has got to be the smoothest slab pitch in CO. Not polished by climbers. Just nearly featureless on the slab itself right there at the crux.
Great find. What a fun, tecnical pitch. Delighted you built a six pitch climb around it to showcase such an exceptional pitch.


Location: Eric Wright : Mid January thaw : Photo
By: Eric Wright When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: Ice getting soft. But so pleasant for January. Who says ice climbing is cold?


Location: Eric Wright : Mid January thaw : Photo
By: Eric Wright When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: There was little or no ice on this section so we climbed the rock
to huge dry ledge up and left of main flow.



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