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Member Since: Mar 27, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Eric Whitbeck


Point Rank: # 1,883
Total Points: 316
Last Year: 19
Last 30 Days: 4
32 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Eric Whitbeck been climbing?










Contributions


All 327 | Routes 8 | Areas 5 | Photos 10 | Page Improvements | Comments 111 | Posts 143 | Stars 39 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : The TV Station : The V6 (V6)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Sep 15, 2011

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Comments: V6 is moderate these days, wow I am getting old. As the aussie's say good on ya mate


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Leaning Tower : Mainliner (5.13c)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Sep 5, 2011

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Comments: It could be his hair. It might make him lighter.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : Thunderstruck (5.13a/b)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Aug 31, 2011

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Comments: Lee is probably right, he has a far better memory than me for this stuff and I could have rested before doing the crux, but I could rest a week or two and still not climb 5.13. He also forgets how strong he has been/can be at times. Either way, they are probably some of the hardest moves I have climbed clean on a rope. Isn't mushroom roof an ancient pictograph of sweat, chalk and blood being protected by Texas State parks? Cheers.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : Thunderstruck (5.13a/b)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Aug 30, 2011

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Comments: I followed it clean after Lee led it and we figured since I did it it had to be 5.12. There was certainly a funky trick move in there, but I doubt it is 13-.


Location: CO : Durango : Sailing Hawks
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jul 7, 2011

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Comments: The directions should be edited to say, when driving north on 550, not south. The area is very cool. An overview map is needed to make sense of it. The land of the sit start.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jun 25, 2011

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Comments: The overview pics are helpful, but a visiting climber would really benefit from a simple topo, if nothing marking each boulder.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Upper Mound (main upper clu... : Kaiser Soze (V7)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jun 20, 2011

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Comments: V8 is laughable. It is almost too short to even call a problem. You could do better moves sit starting your car.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Fat City, Indian School : Boulder D, Crystal Face : Crystal Face Center (Valent... (V3)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jun 16, 2011

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Comments: Got me. I don't know the names of any of those problems nor am I sure who developed the area originally.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Forest (5.10b/c)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jun 13, 2011

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Comments: The drills can never be silent.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome Bouldering
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jun 11, 2011

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Comments: A simple topo would be nice. The stuff around the cragging is obvious, but otherwise a topo to just get you to the rocks can be very helpful.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Ponderosa Bouldering : The Pond : Reservoir Dogs Boulder : Reservoir Dogs (V4)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jun 2, 2011

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Comments: Sit start. FA was Guns Gonzales, at least in the wave of most recent development. I think it is a cool problem. although the top is choss, the lower moves are pretty cool. I think Cody did some thin thing to the left.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Three Gun (Tres Pistolas) : First Group (The OW Boulder... : Prow'd Arete (V2-3)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: May 31, 2011

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Comments: As far as I am concerned, post away. Pictures help and William or I will add any info we have.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Three Gun (Tres Pistolas) : First Group (The OW Boulder... : Prow'd Arete (V2-3)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: May 31, 2011

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Comments: Good photo. Posting a photo with a boulder problem is nice. I have climbed that line, but don't think we ever named it. The area you are exploring is called Low Gun. From about 1995-2000 a small group of ne'er do wells scoured those rocks in search of new lines. We probably only named about a 1/3 and did not worry too much about grades as nearly everything falls somewhere between V1 and V3. We did name the most obvious, most difficult, or worst problems (the chapel, King T, and Technophobi... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Three Gun (Tres Pistolas) : First Group (The OW Boulder... : Prow'd Arete (V2-3)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: May 28, 2011

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Comments: True, oh so true, but over time, most areas develop fairly well. My theory is that if there is one classic line, then there is almost always something to warm up on and usually some other things to climb as well. If William's guess on the problem is right, then my overview photo is useless. It does not capture the crystal ship area. I always called the problem William described the shortest man.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Three Gun (Tres Pistolas) : First Group (The OW Boulder... : Prow'd Arete (V2-3)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: May 27, 2011

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Comments: I still have no guess on the problem, but am with Claude on the potential. What other cities have reasonable quality undeveloped boulders within minutes of the city and often minutes of the car. The whole westside of Three Gun wasn't really developed until fairly recently and still has potential in the upper grades. William and the Tomtourage are constantly finding new stuff on the other side. Countless boulderers have passed through, but there is still more good rock out there. I think it ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Three Gun (Tres Pistolas) : First Group (The OW Boulder... : Photo
By: Eric Whitbeck When: May 26, 2011

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Comments: The two boulders touching on the west edge of the photo at 9 o'clock are the Gateway boulders and are identified in Lee's photo.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Three Gun (Tres Pistolas) : First Group (The OW Boulder... : Prow'd Arete (V2-3)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: May 26, 2011

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Comments: We have climbed everything up there that is easier than V7 (or really tall or really chossy) so I am sure that this line has been done if it is good, but by your description I can not tell what boulder problem you are referring to in your post. I will post a picture of the bouldering area and maybe you can identify what problem you are talking about and I can tell you its name and what we graded it. You may be able to create a better set of directions/location by using some of the landmarks in... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Three Gun (Tres Pistolas) : The Westside : Valkyrie Fallen (V7)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: May 20, 2011

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Comments: No rush, those boulders have been ignored for a long time. I will post a simple topo tonight that might help locating the different lines and projects. I will identify all the best lines that I tried but could not do.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : The Needle : Southwest Ridge (5.8 PG13)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: May 18, 2011

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Comments: Welcome to the Sandias. If you want cleaner rock then you have to climb harder routes. Try Mountain Momma and link it with a route on Muralle or another on the Torreon and you can stay on the good stuff.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Three Gun (Tres Pistolas) : The Westside : Valkyrie Fallen (V7)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: May 18, 2011

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Comments: Carlito's Way is visible from the wash north of the rock band that forms the lower section of the ridge at about the same contour as the parking lot. Walk over the little ridge next to the cars, identify the boulder just west with the big knobs on the north face (2minutes), keep walking west without getting sucked south or down hill. As you get across the canyon, you should be able to see a broken band of rock ranging in height from about 8'to 15'. Head for the right side of the band and look... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Three Gun (Tres Pistolas) : The Westside : Valkyrie Fallen (V7)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: May 17, 2011

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Comments: Claude, if you are back in the neighborhood there are a few interesting projects that you might try. There is a nice boulder just north and east of VF that has an overhanging west face on it with some flat holds that lead up into a seam. It is easy to find because the east side has a really thin seam out an overhanging corner. I did some lines on the boulder next to it. My guess is V10 or so. The other really nice project is on the face just left of Carlito's Way. A good jug leads to some ... more >>


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Sleeping Beauty Wall : The Burly Wench (5.10+)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: May 3, 2011

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Comments: None taken. I just wonder how we can complain about human impact at the tower and yet we keep bolting and posting routes. You can not have it both ways.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Sleeping Beauty Wall : The Burly Wench (5.10+)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: May 2, 2011

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Comments: Why bolt a one star route?


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Las Vegas / El Porvenir : The Squat : Showcase Showdown (V6) : Photo
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Apr 13, 2011

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Comments: Sale on bouldering pads?


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Three Gun (Tres Pistolas)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Apr 8, 2011

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Comments: Most of the names and grades for these problems came from a small group of climbers who began visiting the canyon in the mid 90s. I am sure that there was an earlier group out there in the 80s, Johnny Myrick and co., as well and possibly even before. Mr. Murray almost certainly climbed the most obvious lines as well. None of the info is meant to claim first ascents, but was simply the result of too many years of talking about the problem next to the problem with the jug starting hold. No dis... more >>


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